Needless to say, I have many electrical problems with my 2000 Vanden Plas. The latest is the message that the "Battery not charging". When the engine starts, the message isn't there giving me a sense of false hope. After about 15 seconds, it appears. That is why I'm so confused - if the alternator is shot, then I suppose the message should be visible immediately. Obviously, I have checked the obvious - belts, battery connections, etc. Is there a fuse or relay that maybe the culprit? Any ideas? Thanks for looking, oteymus

 

Have you measured voltage at the battery while the car is running?

 

Just did - 11.71 volts. Good idea though.

 

False Bulkhead electrical connection problem??????????????

They usually melt and cause all sorts of issues. I keep a new one in stock!!

bob

 

I'll look. Where is it located?

 

On the false bulkhead in front of the ECM housing. Copper or BRASS colored stud with nuts and insulators. BIG wire size for battery cable to starter/alt.

bob

 

Hey,
I just realized that I Don't know where the ECM is located on my 2000 Vanden Plas. While searching, I found a panel in front of the firewall on the right side. I removed the access panel screws and found a nest of wires (all small). Some were attached to the transmission controller, and the rest went to what I imagine is another computer with warnings not to attempt to open. Am I in the wrong place? Thanks

 

 

The ECM/TCM control module enclosure does not need to be opened.
The power stud is on the front side of the fiber bulkhead surrounding that box.
You just need to unscrew on posidrive screw and lift the plastic lid to see the large positive cables and the stud.

bob

 

Hey,
I must have looked at that wire fifty times. It has a label that says it was made in the United Kingdom and I assumed from it's appearance that it was a tube and not a wire. After lifting the rubber covering (that looked like a tubing connector), I see the stud. Sorry for all the confusion. Now for the big question. If the alternator is working, I should read about 14 volts on this stud. True?

 

Hey'
I read 11.2 volts, ie the alternator is shot.?

 

Alt bad or wire issue?
That wire is the STARTER/ALTERNATOR link to the battery.

bob

 

Hey,
So, here is some logic, maybe. If I'm reading 11.2 volts on that bulkhead stud, and the engine cranks and starts normally, I'm reading battery voltage. Therefore, the wire between the battery and the starter must be OK. True? Then where is the connection between the wire that connects to the stud and the alternator?

 

The large wire goes to the starter and then a short link wire from the starter to the alt.

bob

 

Hey,
Is the short wire a part or is it created in the shop. If that wire burned up. that could be the problem.

 

You need to actually 'stick-your-face' in the area between the power stud and the starter as well as between the starter and alt.
The short link lead between the starter and alt is part number LJB3732AA.
The link lead from power stud to starter is LNC3730AB but the part number looks like it has been superseded.

A continuity test as well as a volt/amp test will determine the viability of the circuit.

bob

 

Hey,
It was the alternator. By the way, there is a sensor on top and on the front of the valve cover that was leaking oil. I need to fix that but I'm not sure what it is. Is it the cam position sensor?
Again, Thanks for all your help!!!

 

The VVT ACTUATOR is the device protruding through the cam cover. The CMPS is at the rear of the head.

bob

 

Thanks

 

And the part number for the VVT sensor seal is AJ8 2856