Hi everyone,

I am working on a 1999 Jag XJ8 naturally aspirated V8 with 113,000 miles.

I recently replaced my purge solenoid valve, part #LNC1515AA, with a Jaguar OEM part in response to the circuit code, P0443. The code returned a few days later due to the replacement being stuck open; same as the original. I believe this happened because the replacement, while never before used, was quite old. And given the age, Jag isn't currently making new valves.

I am writing to ask if anyone has had any luck using a Ford analog. I found through Autozone, a Duralast purge valve for a 4.0L 1998 Ford Ranger. The part is new and has a lifetime waranty so I can return if it doesn't work. But before I purchase this and attempt trial and error, I was wondering if anyone has had any luck using a non Jaguar purge valve. Did it work? Is there a better replacement than the one I found? The one I have sourced is the "Duralast Canister Purge Valve PV232." My hope is that this part will be slightly newer as it is made by Duralast and perhaps it wont have a tendency to seize like the Jaguar parts seem to.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Ryan

 

Greetings,

I am looking for the purge valve on a 2000 Vandenplas?

Any luck? Any tips on figuring out how you know it is bad? I have a P0456 small evap leak and am trying to figure that out.

 

You can take off, clean and test with 12 volts and listen for clicks. Small leak more likely dried out o-rings. Was on mine. Smoke test will find. I have one to sell.

 

use the evap test port with a real smoke machine and watch the ball bounce

 

I have one sitting in my garage that was working last time used

 

Hey Everyone, sorry this is a few years late, but I frequently use this site to expedite my diagnostics and figured I'd at least attempt to give back.

For me, I found that the intake snorkel from the airbox was loose at the gasket connection to the throttle body. Mine is missing one of the brackets to screw the snorkel to the throttle body. Once I found a way to fix it securely (via a zip tie), all EVAP codes went away.

For whatever reason, the unmetered air from the loose intake must have affected the vacuum and instead of throwing a rich/lean code, the system registered it as an EVAP.

Secondly, about once a year I get the circuit code for the purge valve and I'll get some gas tank issues where after filling the car will stumble after starting, take a longer time to start, or the fuel nozzle will kick off before the tank is full. It seems the valve gets clogged up with debris. Perhaps its from a failing vapor cannister. Nevertheless, once a year I take off the purge valve, spray electronics parts cleaner into each orifice, close the orifices off with my fingers, shake the valve to agitate the solvent, dump the solvent, and repeat 2-3 times.

This clears the failed valve code and restores function. I've had the same valve for three years now.

Hope this information helps someone owning one of these increasingly uncommon vehicles!

 

Cheers for coming back to us.

Is that the valve under the car in the round plastic body next to the charcoal canister? if so the top unclips & you can dump the internals & refit. System looks correct & never gives an issue again, that solved my tank pressurisation issues.

 

Hooli,

I am referring to the purge valve under the hood, not the canister close valve by the charcoal canisters. I do believe I have an intermittently sticking CCV though as well. Sometimes during startup I'll get a gurgling rumble from the tank with a rough idle, and if I open the gas cap it subsides. Second, periodically I can smell gas fumes outside of the car by the passenger side wheel arch. No leaks or cracks in lines or canisters.

My question is why would removing the internals and thus causing a permanent EVAP open condition not trigger a code? When the computer periodically runs a leakdown test, would it not detect the CCV being open as a leak?

 

Ahh wrong valve to the one I was thinking of then, thanks.

There's no sensors or wiring down in the pipe work by the valve I was talking about it's just a spring loaded digram inside the valve, so the car has no idea it's been bypassed. The valve I'm thinking of is meant to mean that when the tank vents out, it goes via the charcoal canister & when it sucks in, it gets fresh air. I ran with no valve at all for ages, till I found a second hand one & when that broke a month later I investigated bypassing it. I kept the pipe work complete as it means the air is taken from slightly higher so safer if I should drive though water at any time (not that I plan too).