XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Question about Replacing Connector to Door Module

Old Feb 6, 2022 | 12:00 PM
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From: Heswall
Default Question about Replacing Connector to Door Module

After some troubleshooting I have identified why I have no electrics in my Driver Rear Door. The connections have broken to a couple of the connectors in the blue connector to the Door Control Module. Most importantly the live feed coming from the fuse has broken off so clearly nothing is going to work!

I have worked with lots of connectors before but this very small Ford female connector has stumped me. I can't work out how to release it so I can replace it and reconnect the live (or resolder the live wire to the existing connector).

Can anyone give me some pointers? I don't want to break anything so a bit cautious of poking around with small screwdrivers to try to release it.

Alternatively, can I buy a replacement pigtail connector? I've not managed to find one but I might not be looking well enough.

Thanks

Mark

1982 Xj6 4.2
2000 XJ308 3.2
 
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Old Feb 8, 2022 | 07:07 AM
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Pics would be very helpful...as for replacement parts, you should have numbers on the side for identification.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2022 | 07:36 AM
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From: Heswall
Smile Door Module Connectors

Originally Posted by Highhorse
Pics would be very helpful...as for replacement parts, you should have numbers on the side for identification.
I've had some success in the last couple of days. I've managed to sort out a replacement loom as I feel there are probably several issues. In the meantime, however, I have managed to establish that the contacts are TE Part No: 170209-1 and have just received a strip of 50 from RS Components (lots of opportunity to practise crimping!).

Now I just need to remove the old contacts/receptacles from the connector. That's proving a little tricky so am waiting for some simple tools which should make it easier. I'll report back.

In the meantime, here's some pics.



Housing having removed the cover plate. you can see the spring connectors.


Parts numbers here but simply can't track any of them down.

Rear of the connector. You can see where the two wires have disconnected.


Heres the cover. You can see where there has been some sort of ingress which has presumably resulted in the failure.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2022 | 03:02 PM
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All fixed. I pulled out all the terminals with cheap extraction tools I bought on Amazon (dreadful quality but they did the job). All but two of the terminals were good so I crimped new terminals onto the two broken wires - TE 170209-1 Junior Power Timer Sockets - https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-170209-1.html. I got a strip of 50 from RS Components so I could practise .

I pushed these back into the connector block, replaced the connector cover, and tested all the connections for connectivity. All good. I then reconnected everything and tested and, yes, central locking and electric window are working now along with the puddle light and speakers.

Total cost of the fix was probably about $3 but most of that went on new door panel fixings and making good the PO’s previous bodges - he’d obviously had a go at fixing the problems with a mixture of duct tape and cable ties.

When I bought this car three weeks ago, I got a discount of $700/GBP500 because there were so many electrical issues. This was the final one and I’ve spent less than $10 fixing them all with a mixture of time, patience and great advice from the forums. Thanks to everyone for their help. I’m now much better equipped to deal with the inevitable problems in the future…
 
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Old Feb 8, 2022 | 04:26 PM
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Awesome, ...nice job cleaning it up. It always sucks trying to fix someone else's boogered up work.
 
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