My original radio works very well except for the volume control knob (its on-off function is fine). The knob turns freely and has no effect, i.e the rotary encoder is internally faulty. I have bought another radio which came without the code but it is otherwise in perfect condition (including the volume control encoder). I am thinking of detaching the whole of the faceplate from my original radio and attaching to it the faceplate (with a good encoder) from the no code radio I bought. Has anybody done similar swap and is it physically possible without taking the whole of the radio into pieces? If the swap is reasonably feasible, will my original radio code work or will it be gone with the removed original faceplate?

 

I doubt removing the faceplate will remove the code, its embedded in the circuits. Here's a post by Graham with the one catch (the code card)... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/u...-codes-203290/

 

I have the code for my original radio and, if it is not stored in the electronics of the face plate (actually it is more a "face module"), my code should work. I also thought that the code is probably not stored in the face module but, after seeing microchips in it, I had doubts. That is why I would like to know if anyone has successfully done the swap and could still use the original code.

 

I have successfully swapped face plates. My original radio was going into "phone mode" half the time, so I bought an otherwise good used radio with a damaged face plate. The good face plate from the original radio is now attached to the good replacement radio and all is well. This is the early radio (no codes to worry about).

 

In my case, it is the code I am concerned about. There is actually just one large microchip on the face plate and I hope it is only to process the inputs from the buttons and drive the LCD screen, not holding the code. Otherwise, I have now almost completed detachment of the face plate / assembly. In addition to the obvious 4 screws outside (after the removal of which the face plate would still not free), I had to also remove the top cover of the radio and found that there are two more screws inside holding the face plate. Will continue tomorrow and inform on the progress.

 

It was fairly easy to remove the face plate: after removal of the 4 screws near the face plate (two at the bottom and two at the sides of the radio box), taking off the top radio box cover (no screws, only the rear black heat sink plate needs to be just loosened then the top cover can be levered up, at the back first and then unhooked from the back of the face plate).

Two screws inside (arrows) need to be removed, then push the face plate outwards carefully and equally at both sides in order not to bend the connector (white block seen between the arrows). To do this, you also need to spread outwards the sides of the radio box near the face plate to unhook its brackets.

I was ready to swap the face plate onto my original radio but, when I tested the radio I bought for spares (came from the USA), I found that it did not require any code and it worked very well. Then, to my surprise, I found that it would tune only to FM frequencies with odd decimal points. I then found out that this was normal for USA spec radios (not good enough for my area where I need the even decimals as well). Luckily, I had a detailed radio manual (for the X-Type though) but could use the set-up info in it to change the country/region in the USA (X308) radio to another choice "AUS" (Australia) which opened up the even frequency decimals as well. The procedure:

Press "Tape Eject" and "AM/FM" buttons simultaneously - a set-up menu will appear
Pres radio station preset button "1" - the USA (region selection) appeared on the screen in my case
Press repeatedly the button "1" until you find the region that you require then leave it there until the screen goes back to normal display

In the case of my USA radio, there were only two USA choices and one for Australia but some models may also have Europe. In any case, selection of AUS is good for Europe and, I think, anywhere else outside USA, except a few countries like Japan and Russia.

In summary:

My original radio (UK, Europe setup, requires code) - Alpine No. AJ9800R, Jaguar LNC4100AA
USA radio I bought (does not require code) - Alpine No. AJ9800A, Jaguar LNC4100BA

So, if anyone wants a radio which does not need a code, go for AJ9800A (LNC4100BA, USA model) as it appears that suffix R means code required and A means code not required. If you are outside the USA, just set-up the radio as described above.

 

You know there are some more hidden functions in those menus, right?
I enclosed 2 service records, just in case.
My volume knob starts to play up as well, although it still works.
If I turn the knob, it might go up or down at its own liking.
Do you know if there is anything which can be repaired on the rotary encoder, or is it indeed searching for a new radio?

 

Thanks for the documents. You can actually replace the rotary encoder but, looking at the face plate circuit board, it is not easy (the encoder is about where the red circle is on the picture below). The encoder is soldered to the double sided PC board (hard to unsolder), clamped on with a soldered small steel enclosure at the front and there is no access from the back as you can see on the picture. It would require removal of the PC board from the steel back plate but the board is attached with through-tabs of the back plate which are bent at the front and also soldered to the PC board. I was thinking, instead of detaching the PC board (nightmare), of actually cutting out with a Dremel the area marked with the red circle and the mentioned front enclosure so I bought a new encoder ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALPS-EC11...72.m2749.l2649 ) which is the nearest you can get and would work but its shaft is 6 mm whereas the original is 5 mm so the knob (or the shaft) would need to be modified.

Then I decided to buy another radio with (hopefully) a good encoder and just move its complete face plate onto my radio. So, I got a good one for just US$ 50 (US$ 78 w. shipping USA to Malaysia). Then, since the radio is in perfect condition (and does not require code, which I prefer), I will just install it and later play with the bad encoder on my original radio.

 

I have replaced the bad encoder on my original (now spare) radio using a new ALPS EC11E15244C0 encoder and it works perfectly.
First, using a Dremel with a sanding bit, carefully ground the new encoder's shaft down from 6 mm dia. to 5 mm. There was no need to grind the flat section as it fits into the knob. Had to be very careful approaching 5 mm dia. in order not to overgrind (many trial fittings of the knob) and have a loose knob.

Then cut the front enclosure (holding bracket) of the old encoder as shown on the picture (Dremel with a thin cutting disc) and bent the parts of the bracket, remaining on the PC board, slightly outwards to have access for later soldering.



Then cut the encoder's 3 and 2 pins leaving about 2 mm sticking above the PC board and pried outwards (with a small screwdriver) the tabs of the encoder's own bracket (the red lines) and then I could take the encoder out. To remove the encoder's bracket soldered to the PC board, I cut its two tabs (that go through the PC board and are soldered behind) almost flush with the face of the PC board and soldered a small amount of tin on each piece remaining in the PC board. On the new encoder, I cut the 3 and 2 pins flush with the bottom face of the encoder and cut the two tabs of its bracket leaving about 2 mm sticking below the bottom face so that they could engage into the slots next to the cut off pieces of the old encoder's bracket. Positioned the new encoder and first soldered its bracket tabs keeping some pressure onto the encoder so that it could sit well on the PC board. Then soldered the 3 and 2 pins (easy part).



Since the new encoder has a thinner body, I put a 7 mm ID (small OD), 1.6 mm thick, washer over the encoder's shaft to compensate for the thickness difference, placed the cut off main bracket over and soldered it.



Sorry I didn't take pictures of every step but I hope the description will help anyone who decides to venture into encoder replacement.

 

I can confirm that the face plates can be swapped between radios and that the radio itself contains the code, the regional setting etc. I just put a face plate from a US spec codeless radio (with a good encoder) onto a Euro radio (with code) and it works fine using the same code as before. Swap the other way round will also be fine.

 

Not intending to hijack this thread, but as all the specialists were here:
My volume knob slowly starts to create its own life, getting worse over the last 1/2 year.

Turning one way, the volume goes up and down without any logic, same turning the knob the other way.
Seems some 1/2 circle is better than the other 1/2, and operating volume with the steering wheel buttons works fine.
I hardly drove the car, which is parked inside, but the problem seems to get worse by just standing.

In the good old days, we cleaned / sprayed the potentiometer, but will that work on our radios?
Planning to pull some dashboard parts this week, so perfect opportunity to pull the radio too (but only if it makess sense).
Any advice most appreciated.

 

I don't think spraying the encoder will improve anything. The encoder is completely enclosed so I don't think the spray will go in. And even if it does (pass the minute gap along the shaft is the only possible place) you cannot flush it like a potentiometer which has fairly large openings. It also has very fine and precise contacts inside so, when it starts acting like what you described, it is time to replace it.

 

Not what I wanted to read, but kind of expecting it .
Thanks Mr. Stojanovic, appreciated as always!

 

I had the exact same problem and solved it with contact cleaner (Deoxit D5). Pull the volume knob off and spray the cleaner into that gap between the pot shaft and the plastic collar.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...o-help-166049/

 

I also intended to try with a contact cleaner spray down the shaft but, when I looked at the encoder (attached pic), I did not see how the cleaner can enter the encoder rectangular body (where the tiny contacts are) and how and where it will exit flushing out the grime (the rectangular body is completely sealed). I gave up the idea and just replaced it.

 

You, Sir, are my hero of today!
Don't understand why the linked thread did not show in my searches, but that's what I need ... Deoxit D5!
Thank you soo much.

 

Well, the above worked excellent for a year (although I hardly used the car).

But today, the knob went numb, just like in your original post.
As you are the expert by now, I presume buying an other radio and swapping is probably still the easiest solution?

 

Probably the easiest solution, yes. My swapped in radio is still going strong.