Greetings,

I seriously disagree with your presumption, and I would not drive the car until it has been inspected more closely. First step is to retrieve fault codes. Your comment about the "limiter" is a symptom I am not familiar with.

 

You need to get the codes checked. It could be any number of things, and if the Restricted Performance light is accompanied by the yellow light, it's likely small and the car is still driveable per the owner's manual. If it's the red light, you need it checked immediately. Why don't you just have your mechanic check the codes? Or, for $50 you can go buy a code reader and check it yourself, and we can help diagnose it.

JTO, when the RP comes on, it limits it to 3,000 RPMs. The limiter is actually a pretty abrupt, violent shake, because it doesn't cut for a long enough time like most limiters will, which means you bounce against it a couple times in an extremely shot period of time. Freaked the hell out of me when it happened. In my case, I was getting a P0174, and a new MAF cleared it up.

 

Thank you Cerberus, I don't believe I have ever experienced the extreme pleasure you described. At least not for a long enough period to make the correlation. Having seen a few twisted V8's, my first reaction to any sign of trouble is to get out of the throttle and off the road.

 

Premature until you read the codes. Part of the alarm in my first post was the radiator hose incident, as this is often the result and not the cause of overheating. A sticking thermostat or failed water pump impeller will cause the engine to run hotter than the dash gauge sometimes indicates. That's one way bad stuff starts to happen, and the hose blowing off the thermostat housing is possibly a clue, not always an answer.

Cleaning an MAF that is initiating codes and causing acceleration problems will often be sufficient. Recurring problems will require a replacement: new ones are readily available, but I wouldn't sell (or buy) a used one without a full guarantee... too much of a gamble, and at this point only a guess.

 

After reading this thread I was wondering what code reader you guys recommend purchasing and where do you suggest I buy it. Thanks

 

Sky, when I had my problem, it was intermittent as well. The yellow CEL stayed on, but the RP would come and go. Chances are, it will be back. Still get the codes checked anyway.

JTO, wish I hadn't experienced that extreme pleasure either. For me it would all be running smooth, and would usually come on without warning as I would be trying to pass someone or go up an incline. Suddenly get the RP message out of nowhere and the rev limiter would kick in. Not fun at all.

Nick, depends on what you want. You could get a $50 reader at your local parts store if you just want the code numbers, and you can get $3-400 readers that can give you real time data and monitor different systems while you're driving, etc. For most things, the cheapy models are sufficient. For more advanced work, more advanced readers are helpful. You can go to your local auto parts store and look at some different models, then shop around online for the model you like at the best price. There's no "one size fits all" answer.

 

P1316 = Missfire rate / excess emmission
P1000 = Onboard diagnostics not complete
P0306 = Missfire B2 (cylinder 6)