Hi I just purchased a 98 xj8 with 32K miles on it has been sitting 6 years so before doing to much I decided to pull the passenger side valve cover off and see what tensioners it had the tensioner was original type and was kind of jammed up, not touching chain on the back side. A small piece of tensioner has broke off the bottom of it. I got the tensioner to snap back in place and cranked over the engine everything turned. chains look fine but could there be serious damage done by missing piece and how do I find it. Last owner said it was running rough when it was last driven. Thanks for your help

 

Try here...Jaguar Tensioner | Jaguar Timing Chain | Lincoln Timing Chain

 

The missing piece will probably end up in the oil pump pickup screen. If it is a single piece it is most likely not a problem.

I wouldn't even start that engine before replacing the tensioners. Six years can leave you with a multitude of problems from rust in the fuel tank to seals that no longer do that to corroded relay and other electrical contacts.

I purchased the '81 Volvo Bertone Coupe below out of a hay barn in Athens, TN that hadn't run in 19 years and ended up replacing the entire fuel system from tank to injectors. Even the fuses were corroded in their holders. The rust and bad gas in the tank destroyed both the fuel pumps, the fuel distributor and the injectors. You comments on the other post about pulling the tank is probably a very good idea. There are services that will inspect and clean the tank and coat the interior.

 

I hope it is one piece in the oil screen. I was planning on changing the tensioners but hoping to get it started first I guess not.

 

Without "going all out" right away, I would do this in stages.

First: replace tensioners with ZIP tie method

Second: flush the gas tank, and replace the fuel filter

Third: drop the oil pan, replace the oil and filter

Fourth: run the car with fresh gas + some Lucas cleaner

Fifth: service the transmission

IF some issues are present, they would show themselves shortly, and I would deal with them at that time, one by one.

 

+1 for daniesand advice.If you don't have a code reader, invest in one. It would be wise to replace the thermostat and housing soon, preferably an aluminum housing. Belts and hoses should be inspected.
But first the tensioners. Use Ford/Lincoln parts and don't forget the shorter bolts.

 

Sounds like a good plan and a busy weekend or two ahead of me, Ebay or ford dealer for parts any difference? thanks

 

I think you will do well with ebay. I bought my parts from sunroadfordparts.com, so you might check there for comparison.

 

Since I'm lazy (actually my time is valuable!), I opted for Ebay. Ford dealers are far away,.... on the phone they give you the runaround,......I took the advice from this forum, and purchased the kit from Ebay for three bills, and free shipping. Tensioners/bolts, valve cover gaskets, and two upper chains with master links in them. Free (slow) shipping (I was in no hurry), and all is good. I could've saved few bucks, spend my time on the phone, time in SoCal traffic, and gas.......I am sure there would be no "savings". For my services I charge 400 an hour, add gas to that, and if I wanted to "peacemeal" all the parts locally, I would've "spend" way more.

So,......if you have a Ford dealer next door,....if the traffic is very light in your area (or your work takes you in that direction anyway), by all means, go for the dealer. If not,.....sit home and wait for the UPS truck.

 

Why are you ordering chains? Are yours damaged? You can not use the zip tye method if you are replacing the chains. Furthermore, there have been warnings about chains with master links breaking.

 

oops, my mistake, danielsand. I thought it was the newcomer posting about ordering chains.

 

Newcomer is back and chains look good so I will just replace the uppers and get it started and see what else is on the list but I will plan on doing the whole tensioner job ASAP I buy off Ebay all the time just wondered if the brand made a difference. thanks Tom

 

I just got the Welsh Enterprises weekend specials email. They have the aluminum thermostat housing with thermostat on sale for $60, a great deal if you are thinking of doing that job after the tensioners.

 

Since you have more than double my post count, I think you know what you are talking about when it comes to these vehicles. Have you (you personally) ever performed the ZIPtie tensioner replacement?

I have,...and I can tell you that ZIPtie CAN be used even if you are replacing the chains! Heresy? Or logic? Think about it, and if you feel like, read my post "UPDATE!! (as promised)".

If you go slow, and one side at the time (I have no idea why would someone take both exhaust cams out at the same time anyway!), you CAN use ZIPtie to replace the chains. This is EXACTLY what I've done two days ago on my 98VDP (pass side secondary chain was broken, and off the cam!). I will go as far as to say,........(drumroll)......I can even change the primary chain using ZIPties!!!

I know,.....some distinguished members of this community are now cringing in horror, but......IF both INTAKE cams are ziptied (can not move), the primary chain can be taken off (crankshaft CAN NOT move on it's own!). Once the primary is replaced with the new one, EXHAUST cams are unbolted (one by one!!), and the tensioners replaced (again,.....never do both sides at once!!). When the new tensioners are in, and cams are bolted in again, you cut the ZIPties on one side, break the old chain open, slip the new one on, and ZIPtie it AGAIN to the sprocket (and I repeat....ONE AT THE TIME!).

Then repeat on the other side (once the new chain is on on the other side, there is no need to ZIPtie it anymore). Then cut the ZIPties on the oposite side, and drive away.

Is it better to use "the proper tools"? Yes, by all means, if available. Is there more than one way to skin the cat? Of course.

I have a GREAT driving (in perfect timing!) 98 VDP in my garage to prove this theory of mine (since it WAS done in practice, I don't call it "the theory" any more,....it became "the procedure"). I also have few stripped knuckles, Ebay purchase history, and other evidence that I am not "full of it".

It CAN be done, and it was done two days ago.

 

I have done two secondary replacements with the zip tie method, and I understand what you are saying about replacing the chains that way. I would do so myself.
I tried to apologize for mistaking your message for one by newcomer Tom, from TN. I thought he was ordering chains and questioned the need for changing them.
One final comment about chains with master links: I have not read of any one suffering a broken link in the past couple of years, so the ones you bought are probably from a totally different source. My earliest experience with overhead cams was with Alfa Romeo, and I never heard of chain problems with them.

 

No worries. And no apology needed. I was just trying to explain to all potential readers out there, that IT IS possible to replace the chains (if needed) via ZIPtie method.

And you are right, I was not able to find any recent report of the chains with master links failing. In any case,....I have them in now, and we'll see what happens. I don't even know IF there is a primary chain with master link available (one would need something like that, in order to execute my ZIPtie method on the primary!). One doesn't even have to remove the main pulley! IF the primary can not be purchased with master link, one can always use the tool that competition bicycle racers use to open the chan (at ANY spot), and rivet it again together. This is easy, and it works.