secondary tensioners
Took off cam cover today to inspect timing gear.All in very good condition and looks like secondary tensioner has been changed but not for the metal type .so i am going to change them again.Have seen the two ways of changing these one with locking tools and the zip tie method.Has anyone made up the locking tool for the job or is the zip tie method ok to use.
Many have used the zip tie method but I and Jaguar prefer the cam lock down method. Looking at the cam lock special tools it is pretty easy to envision fabricating something from some angle iron, washers and bolts.
In the past I've seen places on eBay renting the lock down tool for $75 (+ S&H) for two weeks. I can't seem to find then anymore, but wither way it's a good tool to have when changing out tensioners.
I fabricated the cam lock tool and the sprocket wrench. The zip tie method then came out and I used that. I felt more familiar with zip ties than with my fabrications.
I performed the procedure with zip ties about 3 months ago. I did use 2 zip ties on each cam just to be certain though.
On a side note: Make sure you torques the cam covers to spec, or they WILL leak oil.
On a side note: Make sure you torques the cam covers to spec, or they WILL leak oil.
- Cam cap bolts
- Cam covers
Thanks a lot in advance!
David
Thanks for the replies i think i will make up the tools as i have a bit of time before the parts arrive.But it seems everyone who has used the zip tie method have been happy with it.
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Parts turned up only ordered them sat night.They came with the 4 bolts are they the right lengh or do they need shortening.Any threads come to mind that give a good description of the zip tie change THANKS SHAUN.
Willi, use the bolts supplied, if you compare them to the plastic tensioners' bolts, they'll be longer, (exact same bolt that holds the cam caps on).
The cam can't turn because the top chain stops it, you can loop a long zip tie either end of the head and put the cam through. Out of habit, I mark a cam before I take it out against the head, then there's no guessing if anything goes awry.
The cam can't turn because the top chain stops it, you can loop a long zip tie either end of the head and put the cam through. Out of habit, I mark a cam before I take it out against the head, then there's no guessing if anything goes awry.
Clarification on the old vs new tensioner bolts; it is my memory that the plastic tensioner bolts are longer and bottom out when used with the metal tensioners before they seal the oil ports between the head and the new tensioners.
I clearly remember that one was shorter than the other.
Where are my car keys?
I clearly remember that one was shorter than the other.
Where are my car keys?
I did a detailed writeup of the procedure some time ago, which another chap posted here, with a few minor inanities added:
http://jeg.serverhouse.com/Jag_docs/...in_tension.pdf
"Any threads come to mind that give a good description of the zip tie change THANKS SHAUN."
http://jeg.serverhouse.com/Jag_docs/...in_tension.pdf
"Any threads come to mind that give a good description of the zip tie change THANKS SHAUN."
Been busy over the holidays changed secondary tensioners,coolant and oil .I used the zip tie method on one side but made a locking tool for doing the other and personally prefered that method of doing it.Used the site alot to get information and reassurance.Next job gearbox oil change any advice welcomed and thanks for advice already given,shaun.
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