Since this is the closest thread I can find with our FOB issue I hope someone can help. My son ordered a new FOB for hos 1998 XJ8, and we proceeded to program it. Per the instructions we had the key in position 1 and "rocked the valet switch". Did not work. Went on line and found another set of instructions using the high beam stick. The car is stuck in valet mode so now, so learning mode cannot be obtained. Disconnected the negative battery lead for hours, that did not work. First I would really like to get out of valet mode to attempt teaching the new FOB. Can someone please assist me?

 

Hi
I found something interesting on my car, the lock, unlock button on my central console work only when you want to close the door or all windows but never work if you want to unlock the door. This is annoying because if you are in traffic and you must stop to take some one on your car you can`t open the doors from the button I must stop the engine to unlock the doors. Anyone can help me to resolve this problem?
Thanks

 

Hi, I hope this will help, on your key fob reprogram that, as for door unlock what I have to do is just gently pull on the driver door lever as thou to open the door, but don't pull it all the way then it will engage in lock mode when you start to drive again automatically, make sure you programme fobs correctly, it will all be well for locking/unlocking if this is done properly and it is so simple but if you have problems just post back on this thread and the site will notify me.

 

don't know if i was lucky or not. had starting problems on my 98. changed out the one from my 99 and it started ok then changed out the one from my other 98 ( to ck it out) and it also worked. didn't look at the numbers

 

Hi
If the doors are locked and if i pull the lever from the drivers door it open only that door, if i pull the passenger door lever all the door will unlock. I think it is a problem, maybe on drivers door or the central locking modul
Thanks

 

Normal behaviour. It's a security feature in case you are alone in the car and want to get out without the person standing on the curb able to pull the door open on the other side.

edit ... or maybe it's just the fob that acts like that ... first push drivers door, second push remaining doors.

 

But why the doors don`t open when i push the button on the central console ?

 

my security module got wonky, unplugged the battery, let it set, came back to life-meaning the remotes and key in the door worked. Now nothing works. neither the remotes or the key in the door (locks no longer go up and down) Any thoughts?? thanks

 

I seem to have a combination of a number of the problems encountered here. The problem started with the driver's door failing to unlock remotely while the other doors did. Then the dash unlock stopped working, followed by the remote stopping working on all doors. Now the key will only open the driver's door.

I tried reprogramming the fobs but I think the instructions were for a 350 XJ8 and didn't work.

The locks make a thunk-thunk sound and the interior lights go on, but nothing is activated.

At the end of my tether with this car. so any suggestions would be gratefully received!

 

Neil,

There's a lot going on in the Door Latch assembly. The relevant page from the Parts Catalogue shows and lists the various linkages:


(click on the image to enlarge it)

From your description of the sequence of events, I think:

1. initially on the driver's Door Latch only (because the rest worked), one of the linkages was sticking or a microswitch had failed.

2. reprogramming with the wrong procedure has lost the fob to locking module setting.

I would start with new fob batteries and a correct reprogram of the fob(s) then remove the driver's door card to check the Door Latch and linkages.

If it's electrical and not mechanical, the microswitches are available separately. Just as well - the Door Latches are a terrifying cost!

Graham

 

Many thank Graham, and happy it doesn't seem to be door lock mechanism.
Can you advice me where I can find information on reprogramming for 308 fobs? The video I watched and used seemed to be for 350 model and the reprogram light didn't flash and nothing seemed to happen.

Cheers,
Neil

 

Neil,

I've always found fob programming more Black Magic than Science as it takes some trial and error to get the rate of headlamp flashing right.

Two slightly different techniques have proved successful:

Method 1
1: Pull and hold headlight flasher toward you.

2: Insert key in the ignition and turn to position 1...allows headlight to operate

3: Release and flash the headlight 4 additional times. (In some cases, only three times will be necessary.) Alarm will enter the programming mode indicated by a chime and/or a flash from the led light by the gearshift.

4: Program the transmitter by pressing the unlock or lock button. The horn should beep and/or the led light up. You need to press the remote so that the horn/light operates 5 times. Then turn the key off and remove from ignition and try the remote.

Note: If you have other remotes to programme, you would need to press the other remote buttons at least once .



Method 2
1. Hold the headlamp stalk in and then place the key in ignition, turn to position 1 then after 2 seconds pull the headlamp flasher 4 to 5 times.

2. A red LED will light briefly on the Gearshift plate to the left of the "P" park position.

3. Touch the lock or unlock button on the remote once and you will see the same LED on the shift plate light up again, a simple on-off.

4. Turn key off and remove from ignition before pushing “Lock” again. When you push “Lock” again the remote should be programmed.

Graham

 

Hi Graham,

thanks for that and providing two options. I tried the first one but didn't know the second so I'll give that a go.

Cheers,

Neil

 

Hi again Graham,
no luck, even though the program engaged this time. The centre light flashed and the security chirped as I used the fob but no movement of the door knobs. The encouraging thing is that there is a healthy 'thunk' when I try to remotely unlock the doors, and the boot remote works along with the remote light switch. Just not the locks with with remote or key. Only driver's door not with key.
Thanks,
Neil

 

I have 3 Parts cars , will sell you a module for 100 and might have the key fob that goes with it

 

Same problem with mine. Could be standing right next to the car and pressing unlock and after 8 to 10 pushes it would unlock. I took it(FOB) and cleaned the contacts with q tip and cleaner. Replaced with new batteries and BAM!! Works like new. Locks and unlocks from 30 feet or more away.

 

Same problem with mine. Could be standing right next to the car and pressing unlock and after 8 to 10 pushes it would unlock. I took it(FOB) and cleaned the contacts with q tip and cleaner. Replaced the batteries and BAM!! Works like new. Locks and unlocks from 30 feet or more away.

 

I had that problem and cleaned the contacts and it's worked well since then. But this is different. The fob works, the boot opens, the headlights work from it and there is a loud audible 'clunk' when I use the fob, but when I use the key it only works on the driver's door. The dash lock/unlock doesn't work either. So I think the fob and module are ok. Something to do with a mechanical connection or hydraulics/electrics (whatever they use to connect the locks) must be the problem.
Thanks for all the feedback, I appreciate the responses. Now, however, I must throw myself on the mercy of the dealer...again. It always ends in tears.

 

Hi, having searched, this thread seems like the closest to my problem.

I've inherited my Mothers '98 Daimler V8 LWB, as I understand it it's identical to the X308. It was put away in store about 5 years ago and I'm trying to get it running again.

Battery charged, engine turns over but no start sounds like it's not getting fuel, no sound from the fuel pump either (should it operate for 5 seconds on ignition?)

Ive drained the tank as I figure 5 year old petrol was bound to be dead, although it looked and smelt fine.

The battery in the key fob was obviously flat as well so that has been changed. It doesn't open the doors remotely so I guess it needs resyncing after such a long time flat?

I'm wondering if there is a security system that has kicked in and is preventing the pump operating or ignition. (The alarm has gone off a few times on loading it on a trailer without the key in the ignition)

Can somebody explain the security system and how it works?

I've found one duplicate key that has a label saying it will open the doors but not start the car although it looks identical to the one on the key fob.

Bit in the dark as not sure where to start the diagnosis first!

Thanks in advance!

Will.

 

Maybe that key has been cut to match the lock only.

You may need to remove the fuel pump and bench test it.

See if someone can tell you what the dash lights (MIL, ABS etc) should do exactly (and any PATS one) as you turn the key. (Or look through old posts.) E.g. on my newer car, MIL self-tests, PATS goes out (or a code if unhappy), ABS also self-tests.

May be worth trying an OBD tool.

Workshop manual is a free download...