Security Locking Control Module
Hi Jag, thanks for the reply. Managed to sync the key fob, that works fine now. but still no start.
Had a look through the manual and it looks like all dash lights are as they should be when at pre ignition setting.
I'm pretty sure when I was pumping up a flat tyre with ignition on that I could hear the fuel pump ticking (I hadn't tried to start it at that point due to the old petrol) no ticking noise now.
Can any other owners confirm whether or not I should be able to hear the pump ticking continuously?
I've found reference to which fuses/relays to check in the boot so at least I can see if I've got voltage that far.
In terms of diagnostic software, does generic stuff work or is it like my '96 Range Rover very specific/bespoke to the model?
It's a lovely motor kept in great nick so be great to bring it back to life.
Had a look through the manual and it looks like all dash lights are as they should be when at pre ignition setting.
I'm pretty sure when I was pumping up a flat tyre with ignition on that I could hear the fuel pump ticking (I hadn't tried to start it at that point due to the old petrol) no ticking noise now.
Can any other owners confirm whether or not I should be able to hear the pump ticking continuously?
I've found reference to which fuses/relays to check in the boot so at least I can see if I've got voltage that far.
In terms of diagnostic software, does generic stuff work or is it like my '96 Range Rover very specific/bespoke to the model?
It's a lovely motor kept in great nick so be great to bring it back to life.
OK if that's the case then looks like my pump is probably dead as I get nothing and the fuses are ok. Will check for volts and relay function but reading around it seems fuel pump failure is relatively common.
Looks like getting the lines off of the bottom of the tank is the fun bit!
Will keep you posted as to progress and thanks again for the help.
Will.
Looks like getting the lines off of the bottom of the tank is the fun bit!
Will keep you posted as to progress and thanks again for the help.
Will.
First, try to reset the inertia switch. Sits inside the footwell on the right side. You may have bumped something while changing the tire. Switch kicks off to shut off fuel in case the car is in an accident. See owners manual.
Hi Jim, I had read about that but thought it stopped the engine cranking, lowered the windows and stopped the central locking when tripped?
I guess anything is possible though with 90's electrics so next time I'm with the car I'll check it.
I guess anything is possible though with 90's electrics so next time I'm with the car I'll check it.
Thanks for this info.
Leo
Do you know if it's possible to have these parts refurbished having a lot of trouble finding one
I look very well in the trunk and I cannot find my module. It's not under my fuse box or nowhere in my truck. Maybe ol boys are different. Do you have any other information on a picture of what yours look like? I seen them one on the internet, and I don't see that anywhere in the trunk unless my eyes are different. Thank you. Please help.
2 bolts on the left and 1 on the right need removed. The one at the top is the fob antenna that needs to be unscrewed after you get the 3 bolts removed that hold the entire assembly in place.
It says: SLM 315mhz
the SLCM doesn't work on my XJ8 1998... The dealer ask for 800$ to change it... but I found some used ones on ebay for around 150$... how complicated is it to change it and where is it in the trunk on this 1998 model... I check around the gas fuel dispenser but didn't see it... ?? Then I'll have to reprogram my 2 remote control.
thank you
thank you
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