Looks like my 2003 XJ8 pitched a chain today. Has a nice no/low compression crank. Drivers camshaft still turns. Can't verify anything on passenger side. Could be seriously flooded, but very unlikely. It did this in the driveway today. Didn't even start. I suppose I'll run a compression test first for verification. Only has 75,000 miles on the clock but it is ten years old.

I wonder how far down the rabbit hole I'll have to go? The Mrs. likes her Jaguar, she's in my Intrepid. That won't do.

007.

 

If you suspect a timing chain issue attempting to start or even rotate the engine for a compression test is the very worst thing you could do. Historically, jumping one tooth causes rough idle, jumping two bends a valve or two. If a valve or two is/are not bent already they will be shortly.

Pull the valve covers and see what the issue is before doing anything else.

. . . and welcome to the forum . . . but sorry about what brought you here!

 

Yeah, that's what I'll do. Strange, no warning of issue, no noise, no poor run. Operated beautifully when parked Saturday, Monday morning........not even a snort. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the reply.

007

 

You shouldn't have plastic tensioners. The 2003 should have metal tensioners.
Can you see what you've got? Plastic are red.
These are the metal ones (introduced in engines from August 2001)

If the tensioners are metal it is bore wash. If they're plastic you MUST check both banks before trying to start as test point says.

There's lots of threads on how to start with bore wash - try this technique (with thanks to Gus, JagRepair.com)
Try to start the car in about 15 to 20 seconds at a time keeping the accelerator to the floor and do this about two times. This will allow the oil to work its way around each cylinder

In order to prevent you from burning up your starter you need to only allow the starter to run for 15 to 20 seconds and allow it to cool down if your car takes more than several attempts to start.

At this time you will want to let up on the accelerator about half way and hold it and begin starting at about 15 to 20 second bursts. After several attempts the car will begin sputtering and a heck of a lot of smoke will be coming out of your exhaust and this will be normal until the oil in the cylinders are. Keep the car running by feathering the accelerator.

 

Yeah, you beat me to it! As I read this, I was like "why would 2003 with 75K have the chain issue"? The only other thing is the "wash" but not enough info in the OP.

OP says that "has no/low compression crank". IF the chain went, it's already too late for the valves/pistons, but I don't think so. One hour of some "investigative wrenching" will tell. Pull the covers, and check the timing flats, chains, tensioners, and go from there.

Or,.....(since you state that it has "low/no compression cranking", - too late already IF the valves are bent), follow the starting procedure after the "wash", and ask yourself "do I feel lucky"?

I would have a "looksee" if it's my Cat throwing a fit.

 

The 'low compression' can be a symptom of bore wash.

 

So bore wash is a potential problem on the non- nikasil engines, also? I thought us owners of older cars had an exclusive.

 

I believe all 4.0 L engines suffer from this, it is not a Nikasilly thing.
There are a few posts of 4.2 bore wash but I'm not sure about that.

 

It is my understanding that the 'bore wash' issue was a result of low tension piston rings on the Nikasil coated cylinders aggravated by a fuel enrichment program in the ECM. Both seem to have gone away with steel sleeves.

 

I can confirm. Since I joined the ranks of X308 Cat wranglers, I read EVERYTHING ever written on this model, that's available online. "Cylinder wash" is NOT Nicasil exclusive. All 4,0L engines are prone to this.

Since I read this (long time ago), I trained the wifey NEVER to shut her Cat down before it warms up (and her Cat is an 03).

My response is meant for "steveinfrance". The other one "sneaked in" while I was typing.

 

Thanks guys. A lot of good info here. I've been trapped at the job and haven't had time to dive deep yet. I agree, it's either already done or it's bore wash. I haven't seen bore wash in a long, long time. I was ASE tech for 19 years, working at an independent shop most of that time, so if it fit through the door, I worked on it. (I did the motor home in the parking lot).

Last time I saw a bore wash issue was on an RX-7. Steady customer, flooded to death every time it got cold. We would change plugs, oil, and disconnect fuel pump until it would start. Then it was good to go again. We've never had an issue with this car. It's been absolutely trouble free. I'm going to try to carve out some time and I'll let you guys know.

Thanks again!
007.

 

I've removed ignition coils and valve covers. Plugs appear original. All four cam flats line up perfectly. I just don't know where the crank is, I ran out of daylight and stopped. Secondary Tensioners are metal as Steveinfrance suggested (thanks, Steve). I checked on timing alignment tools, ebay is around $200- $300. Ouch.

In other engines that have done this, I've oiled cylinders and installed spark plugs with success. I'm considering using what I've heard called Fogging Oil, it's for cylinder preparation for engines that are going to be stored. Do you have any opinions on that idea? Or should I just use engine oil?

One more question, Are NGK plugs OE equipment in these engines? I believe they are Iridium plugs. I always put factory plugs back in engines I tune. Just a habit of mine, some folks don't care.

Thanks again everyone,
007.

 

Yes, NGK iridium plugs are (at least for the 4.2 engine)
There's no need to look further - metal tensioners + flats aligned = no timing problems.
You don't need the EBay tools.
While you've got the plugs out a SMALL amount of engine oil down each bore (no more than a mean teaspoon) will start her up.
If she's in a garage be prepared to run for it - the smoke is biblical.

 

The car has bore wash. Floor it and turn the key!!!!

 

Fogging oil is 20 Wt. oil. I always used it on my boat and my Harleys when storing for the winter. I also thought about using it in my cars for winter storage so please let me know if you get any codes after trying it. Never caused any problems for my boat or bike and my bike was fuel injected.
Dave

 

My gaskets finally got here yesterday, I can't wait to get home from work to start going back together. Reseal valve covers, oil cylinders, new NGK IR plugs and hopefully the cat will purr again! I'll let you know later!

007.

 

Actually, Tony the Tiger said that.

At any rate, I oiled the cylinders, cranked over engine to spread oil, installed new plugs and valve cover gaskets. Cranked it about three or four times to avoid starter overheat. Then you could hear the cylinders coming online one at a time. Soon, it started and produced the biblical volume of smoke, as I expected and SteveinFrance predicted. Ran a bit rocky, not bad, until oil cleared from cylinders.

I believe someone asked about service codes, there were three. MAF sensor and IAT, due to the MAF being disconnected during the step where I cranked to spread the oil. Cleared codes and test drove, she purrs great now. I think I may have that battery checked/replaced. In my years of being a tech, I've seen low cranking speed can also encourage the Bore Wash issue.

Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions. This forum and it's members are great!

007.

 

Glad to hear that your car is back on the road. I too had thought that bore wash was limited to the early engines

 

A satisfyingly inexpensive outcome !

 

congrats good to hear... time to do burnouts !