Recently I was washing my car and during the wash I had lifted up my hood to inspect and may have mistaking sprayed some water in parts. All of a sudden a few minutes later the car stalled and shut off. When I restarted it up it threw the car in restricted performance and I needed to give the car gas to keep it running without stalling when I started it. I managed to drive it home in the restricted performance. I later checked the codes and getting P1368, P0358, P0355, P0353, P0352, P1000. I cleared the codes and the car goes through period of running fine, then it will stall out and misfire and show restricted performance. Last time it stalled i noticed the dashboard read "engine stalled" and "battery not charging".

Any ideas where to start with this? I'm not sure if the water under the hood had something to do with it or if it was just a coincidence that it shut off during a car wash..

Thanks and Happy Holidays

 

Sounds like an alternator failure . . . water could do that. More likely water in the spark plug hole at #2 &3, right side and #5 and 8, left side. Should dry out.

 

Sounds like alternator but before you rebuild it or replace it get multimeter and check the battery cables from there you will know if it's really the alternator or something else it must read between 13 to 14.5 volt for healthy alternator
I Had same scenario it was water got around the spark plugs
I had to blow it by air to remove any water around the spark plugs and the car started fine

 

The alternator on the large B +post should read 13.5 to 14.5 as the cable runs back to the battery

The engine should still run if the alternator dropped out limited to the battery draining

You could have the small wire power to the alternator wetted ( it takes power to make power in this case a small 5 amp fuse )

the alternator light can be in correlation with engine stall and would be natural

 

So I did the following:
Car rested for a week and I checked the battery voltage: 12.20
From there I trickle charged the battery to 12.70 and started the car (car starts up fine).
Car idled fine for 20 minutes normally. I check the battery again at the posts and running readings ranged from 14.10 to 13.89.
Car does have some leaking around the back of the engine gaskets and when the car starts for the first 20 minutes the oil burns off with some smoke which eventually goes away..

Now after letting the car idle for 20 minutes and get to temperature, I took the car around my driveway a few times and eventually I turned up a hill and car threw restricted performance message and shuts off the engine. From there the only way to get the car restarted quickly is to immediately give it gas when the engine turns over. This threw the car back into regular mode and allowed me to get the car up the hill back into the garage.

Now could this be a sign of a weak battery given it was resting at 12.2V to begin with? Or could the alternator be cutting out? I'm a little confused because there is no misfires or issues when the car starts right up and idles.

I also did pull the #5 spark plug and it was completely dry. Thinking of when i sprayed some water under the hood, I did not spray near the engine, but more around/beneath it.

 

You need to get the codes read. But, at first glance (if you are not getting Battery Not Charging), I would suspect oil leakage has grounded your cam position indicator.

 

As you put a charger on battery it can read 12.85 volts after full charge ( charger clamps removed ) until it settles out after a short maybe 10 minute period of time ( equilibrium )

For your 1999 you may have 1 ( AJ26 engine ) or 2 ( AJ27 engine ) CMPS sensors 1 on the back of each bank

See page 45 and 56 for the 1 only version ( AJ26 ) as item # 15

X100 Eng T/G USA AQ

Is the CMPS used after the initial start sequence on the V8 ? CKPS ( engine speed sensor ) ?

A removal of the battery to the auto parts store as not " holding " charge , it appears to be excepting charge from your 12.7 number , there can be a sideline parasitic drain on the car side draining battery at car rest

Never reinstall the battery back in backwards , positive post Fwd , mark with tape and arrow

Never over tighten the positive post bolt as breaks the curved nut underneath

There is a protection module ( big mega fuses ) by the battery that the terminal nuts can get loose

With the alternator turning and stable voltage ( no alternator light ) the battery is removed from consideration as the alternator supersedes the battery

The alternator can be removed and taken to the auto parts store as they have a spin up machine to test it but not under real world conditions of heat and heavy electrical load

You can always do an on car battery / alternator test at the auto parts store to get a snapshoot at that point in time / not faulting as engine stall

There is a common heavy ground or B + tie point under the hood that others would know more about

I do not have the V - 8

Your engine codes are here for the later AJ27 version of V - 8 , AJ26 started in 1998 and superseded with production # X

DTC AJ27 99.99

 

So I was doing more looking around the engine and found the above.... looks like a mouse or critter was doing some biting of the wire... Maybe some moisture wet this when I had the hood open however the engine covers were over this area and didn't spray near this wire. Regardless, can someone let me know best way to handle this wire and if this could possible be my answer?

Thanks

 

As long as you have good continuity, it would be ok to do a repair.
The main thing, of course, is to prevent water intrusion, so sealing
the rift with acrylic adhesive, RTV, or similar silicone is the 1st step.
Then, you can further protect the damaged areas by electrical tape
or plastic wrappings of your choice.

 

Thanks. What would be the best way to test continuity? The wires inside looks minimally torn apart but seems like they are beginning to corrode/become weathered.

 

The first thing to do is visually check that the suspect wires are not broken.
If some strands are broken but the wire is generally intact, the wire can still
be used or repaired (soldered) at your discretion. Then, patch the plastic
shielding, using Duct tape or your preferred method. If rodents are the
suspected cause, then it goes without saying that issue needs to be addressed
or you will have other issues that will appear without warning.

 

Thank you, I will further inspect the wires. The stalling issue seems to happen out of no where so hopefully if I choose to repair the wires, I will know sooner than later that this was the issue. Would it be better to replace this harness all together? I do plan to address the rodent situation with traps, mothballs, etc.

 

To be absolutely forthcoming, there could be a number of places that the culprits
could have damaged. Most of which are not as easily identifiable as the one shown.
My method would be to try the repair and see where things go from there,