State safety/emission inspection time here and my XJR failed. The fella told me my front end was about to fall off, I laughed at him and asked if he was sh!@#ing me but he said it will not pass as there is some major clunking going on. I have heard it before and always thought it was the upper shock bushings but after putting it up in the air on my lift I can see where the front portion of the subframe seems to sag down once the wheels are free, looks like the rear subframe bushings are coming apart as well.

My question is it does look like a big job, not something I am entirely afraid to tackle but would kinda like to know how to go about and where to get the parts. Too bad I didn't catch it a few years back as I had the tranny and engine out while doing a swap, if I would have known about this problem I would have done it then but with only 54K on it at the time why would anyone think the subframe bushings would have gone bad so soon but so it is with Jags I hear.

Thanks

 

As there is not a huge market for them, the bushings are probably a dealer only part.

It's not unheard of, but not exactly common either.

 

WellI did the subframe bushings, got them all OEM, $100 for the front ones a piece and $40 a piece for the rears. Here's a few pics for your review. It went pretty smooth, also did the upper shock bushings whilst I was in the area.

This is my first time posting pics here so bear with me, the first is the engine support in place, the second with the subframe clear of the body and the third is the totally wasted front vee mounts.

 

with 58k on it, what did the last owner do to it? dirt track it? off road it?! Blimey! I would have gone with new engine mounts + bolts while in there.

 

chasman -
Looks like a daunting job. Is it necessary to get the subframe entirely down and out from under the car, or can you drop it just enough to slip new ones in? Any more pics?

 

it's a big job - the benefit of taking the subframe out is you can detail the *** off everything, and to do the rears dropping it out is the way to go. I'm stunned at the shape those bushes are in. It should be a revelation once back up and running. After a front geometry check of course.

 

Can you leave the rear mounts connected and just pivot the subframe down enough to swap in the front mounts?

 

Yes it feels much tighter, haven't had the alignment done yet but no more rotational forces clunking about when going over speed bumps. It is strange design, how the entire front end seems to float around on rubber bushings.

I do believe you could just do the fronts without pulling the rear bolts out, the subframe hinges down and clears everything just fine. I was actually surprised how easily it came apart, support the engine, remove the lower motor mount bolts, remove the calipers and hang them off the fenderwells (no need to crack open any brake lines), undoing the shocks, disconnecting the steering shaft into the steering rack, disconnecting the pressure hose from the bottom of the PS pump, disconecting the ABS harnesses and undoing the power steering return line (there is a quick disconnect right around the alternator vicinity)

 

Is it obvious where the lift points are for the engine? And is the engine support a common variety or something special? Thx.

 

There are eyes cast into the front of each cylinder head (or intake, I can't remember just now) for lifting purposes.

The support bar is an OTC 1725 which I borrowed from a friend who does a lot of front wheel drive cars. I could have rigged something up if I didn't have the access to it pretty easily though, thinking about maybe using some deep Unistrut, all thread rod and blocks of wood. Having the tool made it a snap. You want to undo the lower motor mount bolts and then slightly lift the engine to get the weight off the subframe, makes it easier to reinstall it as you bolt the subframe back into position and then lower the engine back down onto it.

 

It always amazes me that the sheet metal inside the fenders along the sides of the hood is strong enough to take the engine weight without buckling or denting. But evidently it is, since these engine hoists are used for all kinds of cars.

 

Just doing this now.

Dont believe you could just drop down the front of the subframe as you nee quite a lot of room to work on the subframe mounts. The bolts on mine were torks and needed to get a long one in, not easy.

Also the rear mounts looked good on my car. When the subframe was dropped they were wrecked not obvious when the subframe still in the car.

Jaguar say you have to dismantle the whole subframe and put the frame in a press to fit the rear bushes! How mad is that???????

Cut them out with an electric hacksaw gointa make a tool to fit new rear mounts tomorrow.

Peter

 

Made a tool for the rear bushes which pushed them in easily without dismatling the subframe or using a press.

Only had time for a quick drive after the job was finished as wifey had made tea and being late is not an option.....

First impressions are the car is very, very quiet in fact I can hear a rattle from the back door that I never heard before and the whine of the supercharger is much more noticeable - pleasantly so!

Also seems steady under braking which was unpleasant before.

Peter

 

voodooman -
Let the rest of us in on the secret! How about a picture or two of your homemade bushing tool?

 

Hi

will post a photo tonight, sadly got to work today

Peter

 

"Work will be the ruin of the leisure class."

 

Yep it stops me having a mint car.

Here are some pictures I took when changing the bushes in my rear subframe in a PDF you can download http://www.software4biz.co.uk/downlo...rameBushes.pdf

Any questions, please ask.

The car drives nicely now, much quieter. Still seems to wander about. I've seen others comment on how vague the steering is.

Funny as I remember when the XJ40 came out how direct the steering felt compared to the original XJ6. I also remember the XJS HE being very positive in that regard. There is nothing loose now in the steering, I have rebuilt lots of PAS racks in the past and mine looks ok.

Peter

 

From your pictures, you used a sawzall to cut the center out of the rear mount, cutting through the rubber. But then how did you drive or push out the outer part of the rear mount?

Also, roughly how far did you have the front of your car up in the air, to do this work?

 

That'll be the tires, these cars are ultra picky about them, fit only asymmetric tread patterns

 

Hi

I sawed out the centre rubber, then I cut through the metal ring of the bush. I did this against the solid metal of the frame (towards the front) so as not to weaken the mounting if i went a little too far, then I simply knocked it in with a hammer and chisel. Cleaned up afterwards with a half round file.

I have a low garage and a tilting ramp I bought used 14 years ago. If you look, the car is at an angle. The ramp lifts vertically 1 metre and tilts forwards and backwards.

The tressle I made stands on axle stands is about 500mm/20inch high and i tilted the car up to about 1400mm/4ft6inches in the area over the wheels.

You could have the subframe a lot lower about wheel height and could lift it with two high lift jacks and two tall axle stands under the jacking points.

Peter