XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Supercharger help needed

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Old Aug 16, 2018 | 12:36 PM
  #1  
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Default Supercharger help needed

Hello.

My supercharger needs a rebuild. It's making noise. The snout was rebuilt a few years back.

My mechanic says we need to pull it and inspect it.

My plan is to find a used one and have it rebuilt or find a used one in good condition.

Are the 98 - 03 superchargers the same?

I have seen ads showing that the 98 & 99 are different from the 00 - 03.

Also, does anyone know of a good place to have a supercharger rebuilt?

Thanks for your help everybody.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2018 | 04:09 PM
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You can chase a spare one down here.... Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market ...they are rebuildable, plenty of kits listed on ebay. Depending on your mechanical skills, they aren't the most difficult thing to do.
A couple on site here... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ebuild-204212/ ...and... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ebuild-117896/
Had to hunt for this one, but I believe this answers your differences Q.... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2002-a-199047/
 
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Old Aug 16, 2018 | 06:49 PM
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Probably the. Coupler, if they used a hard plastic one when they rebuilt the snout they are good for about 25k quiet ops then it’s racket central, like a bucket of bolts rolling around.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2018 | 07:17 PM
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Agree on the coupler, number one suspect.
That said, there are rebuilding sets (including coupler, most bearings and new oil) on the net like eBay.
The rebuilding itself is super simple, just needs a small press, almost anyone can do.
There are some instructional videos on YouTube, not for our exact model, but close enough to use the same little tricks.

We rebuilt 2 S/C in the last year upon request of the owner, including the replacing the bearings, but frankly speaking, chancing the oil and coupler should have been sufficient (both ~100.000km).
 
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Old Aug 18, 2018 | 10:23 AM
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Thanks for your help everybody.

The noise sounds like an alternator bearing that is just starting to go bad.

It doesn't have that bad coupler sound.

It definitely sounds like a bearing.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2018 | 10:58 AM
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If you're sure the snout and coupler are good, it is either the rear needle bearings (fairly easy to replace) or the rotor pack bearings (the ones between the gears and rotors, need a shop with a jig and special tools to replace these). 98-03 superchargers should all interchange with no problem, I don't think there was any changes done within those years to the SC, some sites may list them as separate because the engine was redesigned around 00. You can try and stethoscope the noise to see if it's coming from the front or rear of the sc.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2018 | 08:09 AM
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+1 Nilanium. for rear needle bearing. After 170x,xxx miles mine had been shot for a long time. Pretty sure all 4.0 and 4.2 units are interchanges ; there are a few differences/updates for seals and bolt on bits for latter units. Replaced my supercharger with a gen 5 unit off a 4.2 S type R. With time and age replacement the supercharger output seals and heater hoses under the unit.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2018 | 12:11 PM
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Thanks again for your help everybody.

My last question is regarding the coating on the rotors.
If there is any coating coming off, is is mandatory to have the rotors re-coated?
 
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Old Aug 19, 2018 | 03:34 PM
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I've spoken at length to a number of rebuild specialists on the abraded coating, some say yes and some say it's not important. Bear in mind it gets eaten by the engine after 100K miles anyway - it will have chipped.
I'm sure you can have them recoated by a specialist coating company - I did read the Count's comments on the tight tolerances the coating allows at least initially, but as the units wear it's not so important. I've run both and cannot tell the difference, I don't think the engine does either.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2018 | 09:50 PM
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Thank you!
 
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 08:23 AM
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Any suggestions on a parts source for the gaskets? I'm having trouble finding anyone who shows they carry them. I haven't spoken to anyone on a phone or anything as I'm leary of miscommunication without the confirmation of an image or exploded view of the area in question.
Also does anyone have special recommendations for coolant when replacing the hoses or is peak or prestone green ok?
Thanks,.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 10:05 AM
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I just bought a good used supercharger.

I will keep you posted on how this works out.

Thanks again everybody!
 
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 08:58 PM
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Question Buried Hoses

Platinum XJR,

I know it's been mentioned already, but keep in mind changing the valley hoses while you can see/touch them.

Even if not completely perished, they'll never be as accessible as right now.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Coventrywood
Platinum XJR,

I know it's been mentioned already, but keep in mind changing the valley hoses while you can see/touch them.

Even if not completely perished, they'll never be as accessible as right now.
Thanks! Will do!
 
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 07:14 PM
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I received the supercharger today. It is from a '99. Hopefully it fits.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 07:47 PM
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I was looking at rebuild services, specifically Stiegemeier. Looking at the list of what they do, I see that they look for rotor rub.

Is there a point where rotor rub makes the SC unable to be rebuilt?

I think I can see some wear where the rotors meet the case on the SC that I just received. Is it normal to have some rotor rub?

There are also areas where the coating has worn off off the rotors which I understand is not a problem.

It does turn smoothly by hand, and nothing rubs when I turn it, although I presume that testing it by turning it by hand doesn't mean anything.

I am on the fence right now. Do I just have this SC from the '99 installed and see what happens?

Or, do I send it off for a full rebuild?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Coventrywood
Platinum XJR,

I know it's been mentioned already, but keep in mind changing the valley hoses while you can see/touch them.

Even if not completely perished, they'll never be as accessible as right now.
+1 - I would also change the two knock sensors. I had to take mine off a 2nd time just to replace them
 
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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rocklandjag
+1 - I would also change the two knock sensors. I had to take mine off a 2nd time just to replace them
Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 24, 2018 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean B
I've spoken at length to a number of rebuild specialists on the abraded coating, some say yes and some say it's not important. Bear in mind it gets eaten by the engine after 100K miles anyway - it will have chipped.
I'm sure you can have them recoated by a specialist coating company - I did read the Count's comments on the tight tolerances the coating allows at least initially, but as the units wear it's not so important. I've run both and cannot tell the difference, I don't think the engine does either.
The abradable coating of the 5th Gen units does improve efficiency by about 3% but if it does get eroded over time, not to worry, it will likely be 'replaced' by the engines own black carbon coating which will likely have the same effect of tightening tolerences!
 
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Count Iblis
The abradable coating of the 5th Gen units does improve efficiency by about 3% but if it does get eroded over time, not to worry, it will likely be 'replaced' by the engines own black carbon coating which will likely have the same effect of tightening tolerences!
Don't know about that has your car got EGR? That thing can really gunk the induction, and don't mention nika.....!

Thinking about the 99' SC description - try turning the pulley back and forth a half turn and feel for backlash, if it's noticeably slack, then a rebuild could be in order.
 
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