My 2001 VDP has a bit of a shaky steering wheel when decelerating from higher speeds. Could this be some bushings in the front? Which ones and how much to replace?

Also, when the car was last in for an oil change, they told me that my "rear left ball-joint" needed replacement. As far as I can tell, there is no "ball-joint" in the rear. They quoted me $1500 +tax for replacing both "rear ball-joints". Can anyone help clarify what part they mean and how much it should cost to repair/replace?

One more thing... How much should I pay for new brake pads on all corners?

 

If it happens only while you are stepping on the brakes, it is mostly likely caused by warped front brake rotors.

 

Hmm. Certainly could be. How much is it to have new ones installed?

 

yes the front rotor shimmy is caused by rotors being messed up. you can have your existing rotors turned by a shop or just buy new rotors. For OEM Jaguar new front brake rotors the list price is $314 each. of course you should be able to get them cheaper or use an aftermarket like EBC. I have EBC redstuff ceramic brake pads on my XJR and I am very satisfied with these.

I am not sure about your suspension inquiry but that does sound strange, hopefully someone who knows more about the suspension will say something, good luck

 

Hi

Here is a forum thread on mechanic costs on brakes:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...echanic-60740/

Also look at this forum thread for costs of rotors and pads:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ke-dust-58079/

Jim Lombardi

 

The Jaguar OE front rotors that are listed $315 retail. This is for a balanced set so it is for both rotors. You can get them online for $280 -- so $140 each.

OE pads are about $90.00 online.

You can use this as a starting point for cost.


Don't try to cut your old ones -- once they warp or get a lip they are done.

 

Not necessarily. It just takes fresh cutting heads, attention to proper mounting and a fine touch. If someone tries to do it in one pass, it makes for a poor result. The key is multiple "skim" cuts. Just enough to take off the high spots on each pass. That way the rotor does not get too hot or try to wobble on the mount.

Of course, most production shops will not want to put in the extra time that this requires.

 

Your issue deffo sounds like warped rotors ( discs ) and they probably need changing.
As far as turning them goes......thats definitely a US type thing I reckon as its not something I've ever really heard of over here. If your discs are warped, have a lip etc then they are changed, simple!

Like anything else, shop around, try EBC for sure but don't forget to try our vendors here, you never know?

Good luck

 

Most modern rotors have very little wear surface -- especially any of the vented ones - so when you get any noticeable lip at the edge you are going to be at least few mm thinner.

Trying to fix a warped rotor never worked very well even in the old days of thick rotors -- once the metal is warped they always seem to warp again.

I just went through this with a Porsche at 50k. The rotors were just within specification. So they will never make another 50k. The current brakes have given me flawless service -- so I replaced everything and expect another 50k out of them.

Obviously, if you are doing the work yourself and don't count any of the labor costs you can eek out some more from an aging rotor -- but then you have the pad issues when the rotors are finally replaced. So I don't see any point in it.

 

Not many modern brake rotors warp. Especially vented types. If you are experiencing brake surging, you may have accumulated pad deposits on the rotors. This stuff is like a slippery varnish. The best part is the remedy. Deserted highway, 70mph and stand on the brake pedal. Do that three or four times and if indeed there were deposits, they will burn off.

 

Yes it did, and still does. As a matter of fact, in semi-pro racing as opposed to the upper reaches where they are using exotic materials, a heat set rotor which has been remachined is the preferred rotor because the material has been heat stabilised.

As for labor time, the brake lathe just runs while doing other work ... when it reaches the end of a stroke, reset and go back to the other work. This works well in fleet maintenance, not so much at a regular garage where this means tying up a hoist.

 

Does it happen when decelerating without touching the brakes?

 

Very little at around 80km/h (50mph).

 

You might try the deglazing mentioned by squish first. It is also often mentioned by Brutal.

 

Rotors warp. I have read all the info from the brake manufactures telling everybody why they should buy x and y pads and what they are saying is true -- to a point .............. but rotors still warp and cutting them will not fix them.

And plums -- we are not talking about "heat setting a rotor". We are talking about fixing a rotor that is no longer running true and has almost no material available to attempt a fix ........ and you would not even attempt to heat treat a rotor that is "truly" warped. And ...... I'm not talking about the labor to fix the rotor on a lathe -- I'm talking about the R&R. The rotors don't cost enough to risk a return problem or early failure.

Many on this forum have limited mechanical skill and are asking for practical information on what to do -- most people want to fix a problem not postpone it.

 

I notice that the original poster is from up in Canada.

I have had brake rotors which exhibited these shaking symptoms, but on closer examination the cause was very interesting - not exactly warpage. (this was on a Dodge some years ago) In that case, the rotor casting had two faces separated by fins, so called ventilated rotors. In several places around the diameter of the rotor, the fins had rusted to the point where they broke. Thus, when the rotor rotated to where the rotor faces were directly under the brake pads, the brake was able to slightly compress the rotor faces, causing a "skip" in the braking action at that point. The result of these skips as the wheel rotated, was a pulsation of the steering wheel.

I suspect that this particular failure mode can often occur with ventilated rotors in colder climates where road salt is used in the winter. Only cure is a new rotor.