Hey guys.
Probably an easy answer but I am in a time constraint. Finally getting able to get an emission sticker through waivers as the ECM will not reset monitors.
My beautiful Brit wife wants her Kitty back, and wants it back NOW!
Thought I had it licked with the waiver but suddenly the TRAC/STABILTY failure stays on which will screw me on the safety side of the inspection set for next week.
There are no codes(except P1000) and have soft and hard cleared the ECM.
The TRAC failure comes on immediately when i start the Kitty or just turn the key to ON. The one thing I have noticed is a clicking noise under or behind the center console when I hit the brakes that I never remembered hearing. I just got hearing aids so it may have been their before(lol).
Battery is old but seems OK as far as voltage and I took the illegal Kitty on a very long(150 mile) midnight run to be sure and charge up after being in storage.
The lights, cruise and all electrical work fine so I ruled out the brake switch.
A couple of times the TRAC failure went off for a short time but came back.
All fuses have been checked and rechecked. Was thinking of cleaning all the sensors, but thinking about it, they would not cause a failure immediately before the car is even started after a hard clear, right??
Brakes have always been mushy but work well when needed and new pads all around. I tried bleeding but very little improvement.
Any ideas???
Cheers From Texas

 

I think you need to get the car onto a dealer level scanner and find out whats happenning. Th Trac system has codes that do not show on OBD scanners. You will probably save money and will surely save time to get the the big picture scan from Snap on, AutoEnginuity, IDS or WDS, or other dealer level software.
How far are you from Decatur? Motorcarman lives there and works on Jags. Drive over here to Atlanta and you can use mine for free (cold beer appreciated).

 

Hi
I had the same problem and the solution was cleaning the wheel speed sensors.

Here are 2 forum posts on the ABS/TRAC issues:

Look at post#12 and #14 in the weblinked thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-50890/page2/


The cleaning wheel speed sensor DIY is HOW TO: Cleaning the Wheel Speed Sensors FAQ - go to post#1:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e4/#post208422

Jim Lombardi

 

Houston/Galveston area is NOT close to me but you can scan the ABS module if you want to drive here.

BRUTAL is alot closer so it would be easier to contact him for a diagnosis.

Could be one of the link harnesses for the wheel speed sensors is open circuit.
Just a guess.

bob gauff

 

Rechecked fuses and then measured voltage across fuse holder clips. There are two 30amp fuses for the ABS pumps. One measured 12 volts across the other measured 4 volts across, but 12 volts positive side to ground.
Now trying to figure out how to remove the ABS connector and check and clean connections as well as do a resistance check to the sensors.
I was ready to remove and clean the sensors till I found the 4 volts going to an ABS pump and decided I should figure that one out first.
Will check around locally as someone has to have an ABS reader close by.
Cheers and Thanks

 

I don't know what you mean by "12 volts across", but the voltage reading from one side of a good fuse to the other side of the same fuse should be much less than 1 volt. And the voltage "across" the fuse only shows it to be good assuming the fuse is powered and has a load connected. It is much better to check each side of a fuse to ground and check for 12 volts. If the fuse is unpowered (both sides zero volts), then check the fuse for resistance below 1 ohm or so.

 

Spark,
I was measuring across the fuse holder and not the fuse.
Found how to disconnect the connector, pretty niffy set up!
Checked all sensors and they all came in range and almost exact resistance.
The 4 volt still bothered me so did a resistance test between fuse holder and connector and all fine. Then did a resistance test on both ground wires to chassis and all fine.
That leaves the ABS module. I am wondering if the 4 volt reading might be a stand-by voltage one one pump and the 12 volt to an active pump or vice versa?
Someone should know if the pump power supply should ever read 4 volts. Any ideas before I spring for a new ABS module. looks like a bear to get out!
Also, the click under the console is the STABILITY/TRACTION Control relay switch. Should it be clicking everytime I touch the brake pedal?
Cheers & Many Thanks

 

I am sorry, but I stil don't understand where you are reading the 4 volts. What fuse holder are we taslking about?

Normally, you just remove the ABS control module from the ABS valve body. Its tight, but you can loosen the main mounts, then get the module off the body in place. That way, you can work on the module without breaking the brake lines. You can even drive it, although you will have no ABS.


There is a known failure mode in the ABS module wherin the motor connector solder joint breaks. Usually, it gives a different message from the one you are getting, though.

 

Get the codes read!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
C1095 is the bad solder joint fault, all others need different solutions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(or just guess)

bob gauff

 

Spark,
Engine Fuse box, fuse #18 30A. I removed the fuse and checked the voltage at the two sides where the fuse clips in.

Bob, only code is P1647, O2 sensor which I have order.
Cheers & Thanks

 

Kenn, Bob's lips are moving but you are not hearing him!

P-codes come from your powertrain module and can be read from any of a bunch of reasonably-priced hand-held diagnostics. Not so your ABS module. If you have TRAC caution light, then dollars2donuts you have a code or codes resident in the ABS module that will tell you what you should be working on. However, even though you access those through the OBDII port, it takes a whole different level of equipment to read them: WDS/IDS etc.

If Brutal is within illegal driving range (Thank God for Wise Co. and our $14.50 inspection insuring that lights and horn work!!!) for you....you really ought to pick up a cold case of beer and go see him. What you are doing now is a lot like trying to look up a word in a dictionary that is scrambled, with words listed randomly, neither alphabetical nor by length or any other characteristic.

 

or buy a bunch of parts and see if something gets better- And... no XJ8 should be waivered into a smog test. If something is that wrong, it needs to be fixed. Just my $.02, worth less, I'm sure.

 

aholbro1, I read Bob loud and clear as he is one the best troubleshooters on this forum. I have been calling around locally to try to find someone with a more advanced reader. I can not drive the Kitty very far as it has an expired inspection sticker and thus the registration is expired as it can not be renewed until in compliance with emissions, so I can only do very short trips or midnight runs If I get caught, the best scenario is the Jag is towed I am left on the side on the road. The other scenario is I spend a couple of days in jail with mother rapers and father rapers. Neither option appeals to me(lol).
Spark, if you did not happen to fully read or understand my last post, as you did not understand my previous posts, that everyone else seemed to understand, I have ordered an O2 sensor to bring it up to emission compliance. If you have a problem with me or my posts, I suggest you just do not read them or respond to them and find someone else to flame as you seem to give no relevant advice anyway.
Cheers

 

No, others just decided to not bother with trying to decipher the incomplete descriptions and moved on to other posts.

 

In theb first version of this post, I apologized for offending you, but I have now decided to edit that-

1) "The lights, cruise and all electrical work fine so I ruled out the brake switch"- All electrical is fine, but you have TRAC/STABILTY light? And you kniow this, right? BTW, there are two brake switches and one has nothing to do with the lights.

2) All fuses have been checked and rechecked- But you have "4 volts across" one of them?

3) "Finally getting able to get an emission sticker through waivers as the ECM will not reset monitors." What part of that did I not read or understand?

4) And you think I flamed you to say you should get the car checked out by someone who can troubleshoot electronics? Either you have no comprehension of simple electronics, OR your mastery of the English language precludes you from giving a description of what you found.

My intention was to poke you a little so you would consider getting some help on a simple problem that is obviously far above your technical skills and to save you a bunch of time and money (and marital discord). And if you want to attack me for doing so, then saying my posts have no relevance is stupid. I suggested contacting motorcarman and was the first to suggest getting the codes read with software that would do tthe job, which you have now decided might be a good idea- except you will not spend $85.00 to flatbed the car to someone who can do it.

You and I obviously view the world differently. When I say or do bonehead stuff, I appreciate others pointing it out.

 

Hi kenncl
I understand your frustration about getting the codes read on the ABS system. I was in the same situation earlier this year when the ABS trouble light went on and ASM and Trac error messages keep appearing on our 01 XJ8.

I could not find a Code Scanner at a reasonable price that would be able to read the Jaguar ABS system sensors. Also all the repair shops I called wanted over $100 to scan the ABS system.

I found the solution to my issue by following the DIY on cleaning the wheel speed sensors on this forum. I asked our Indy mechanic to inspect the sensors but he did not think it was the problem. He does not have a scanner for the Jaguar ABS system.

I cleaned them myself and I usually always have all the work on our cars done by our Indy mechanic.

Now its been over 5 months without any problems.

Jim Lombardi

 

It has puzzled me how "dirt" messes up the ABS sensors, since they are sealed units at each wheel. Do the sensors contain permanent magnets that attract iron particles? I wonder if it is the cleaning of the actual sensor itself, or just the act of unplugging and replugging the connector.... Kind of mysterious as to what the fault mode is.

 

Hi Boomer
I am pretty sure it is the dirt. Just look at this photo from reverend sam's DIY thread:



The sensors on our XJ8 also looked the one in the photo.

Jim Lombardi

 

Jim -
I wasn't doubting that there was dirt on the sensors. I was wondering how that dirt messed up their operation. That is, a physics question. As I understand it, the sensors detect changes in the magnetic field as the toothed iron or steel wheel rotates by. I was just asking the question as to how that would get messed up by dirt, which is either not magnetic or would seemingly have a very small magnetic effect as the mass of the dirt has to be very small compared to that of the toothed wheel or even any one tooth on the wheel.
When I get around to messing with mine, maybe I will do the experiment of first unplugging, cleaning, and replugging the connectors, to see if that step in and of itself will do the trick, before cleaning the dirt off the sensors.

 

at boomer with his physics question.....

It works on the Hall effect - A Hall effect sensor is a reliable solid-state device that sends an electrical impulse when a magnet comes near.

I've had TRAC ABS not available, once in the snow and nearly wrote a car off. I've posted on here before the top 3 things that cause this. I'll repeat,
1. Old battery
2. Dirty wheel speed sensor
3. ABS pump control board solder points.

I found it to be blades of grass wedged between the sensor and wheel. To clean the face of the sensor without taking it out is easy, load up a stiff piece of paper with WD40 and feed it between the sensor and wheel, rubbing the face of the sensor to clear dirt. Of course removing them does a proper job, but in sub zero temps I wanted a quick fix before I got frostbite.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the sensors will not cure it. You need to clear the face of the sensor for it to work.