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Without DTCs, we can ALL GUESS.(let the guessing begin)
Guess #1 Forward drum?
Will have to wait on that, mechanic won't be available till mid-week for a read. I hope it's the drum or ATF, not me having to replace the entire transmission or rebuild. About ATF, I still can't find clear instructions online for how to check it. It's a 2000 XJ8. Thanks.
The transmission ECM and engine ECM talk to each other as they dance together
The connector on the transmission body could be contaminated as there are 2 speed sensors inside the transmission that in the end effect engine regulation
With the ZF transmission the connector does not simply twist off but must move aft about a 1 / 8 inch to unlock then a turn on the barrel
If you put tie wraps on the connector barrel you can grip it for the quarter turn to remove
This is a pic of the ZF4HP24 connector removed which is probably the same as the ZF5HP24
Hello all, after a small inspection I noticed this around the ATF tank bolt. It's not very visible in the photos, but it is very greasy around it. Could this signal an ATF leak? I'm assuming a 23 year old rubber o-ring is probably cracking and causing ATF to leak, which is why the symptoms have been getting progressively worse since I started driving the car.
This will show you the mechanics of checking the ATF. All you need is for it to be at the point
where it wants to drip out of the fill hole. Then just make sure to seal it up tightly. A new gasket
is almost always the best way to go.
This will show you the mechanics of checking the ATF. All you need is for it to be at the point
where it wants to drip out of the fill hole. Then just make sure to seal it up tightly. A new gasket
is almost always the best way to go.
Thank you. So basically, engine running, open valve, check if it leaks, (leak is good, no leak is bad) fill with fresh ATF until it drips out, then close tightly with new seal and I'm done, correct?
This will show you the mechanics of checking the ATF. All you need is for it to be at the point
where it wants to drip out of the fill hole. Then just make sure to seal it up tightly. A new gasket
is almost always the best way to go.
Sorry to bother. Can I add any kind of ATF into the vehicle, or is there a very specific one I should be using?
Checked if bolt is leaking, not leaking. The wetness around the bolt is basically just grease. Don't know why it is around the bolt specifically but I'm assuming some mechanic or someone got some on there for some reason. Transmission seems to be working fine in Drive, shifts properly. If, however I go into reverse, then Drive, It takes about 4 seconds to shift from R to D. If I try to accelerate before the 4 seconds it will jolt the car forward, burn rubber, and knock really loud in the back end of the car (not the middle). Then, the car will show Transmission Fault message and go to limp mode. I can then restart the car, where then it goes back to normal speed and shifting. Don't know why it does this only from R to D but I'm hoping that means the transmission isn't totally done. Oh, forget to mention, sometimes, when idling around 500 RPMs then accelerating suddenly it will also jolt forward and burn rubber. Sometimes it will go to limp mode, sometimes it will not.
04-08-2023, 07:42 PM
