Hey guys,

In a bit of a rush to get my car back together in the next couple days while I've still got free time, trying to find some part numbers for the U-joints. i already have the jag part, JLM1388, but I read in some places that the U-joints are a "common" size that can be had from some parts stores. I haven't had any luck finding a generic part number though. The closest ones I found were a few on Amazon which may or may not fit...

Does anyone know of a U-joint part number which I am likely to find in a local parts store (NAPA, Advance, etc.)? I could always order the Amazon ones but questionable fitment makes me hesitate, and they'd still come in once my work week starts.

 

You can do online parts searches for most auto stores. Here is autozone.
Lakewood U-Joint - Performance

Price: $187.99
Core $75.00

• Part Number: 23022
• Warranty: 1 YR

Store Pick Up
Order in Store Ship To Home
In Stock
ADD TO CART


Lakewood U-Joint - Performance

Price: $124.99
Core $75.00

• Part Number: 23014

 

You can also get online pricing from Jagbits and SNG Barratt boot of them are forum sponsors.

 

Thanks, I was looking more for some common PN's for something like "GM trucks for years 95-98" or something simple like that so I could pick them up tonight, otherwise I'd order from SNG Barratt. Those U joints at Autozone are also online-only in my area.

I'll measure one of the old ones when I get home, maybe it can be matched that way.

Edit: From the GKN UJ datasheet and measurements, and going off the assumption that it's a "common" UJ size, it seems to be SAE 1350, which is locally available as a MOOG 232, I'll pick some up tomorrow evening and see how it goes. The 1350 is used in 70's corvettes, among other cars and trucks, so a fairly common standard.

 

Just replaced the two outer U-joints with Spicer part number 5-178X (the 1350 series common to many other uses).

 

Something ain't right with those particular listings. A shipping weight of 350 pounds, and a core charge on a u-joint?

Cheers
DD

 

Just a quick caveat.

Having replaced UJs on various Jags I can confirm that they are not unique or exotic and the physical dimensions are very common.

However.....

Over the years I've experienced some vendors selling UJs that fit perfectly well but are not as robust as the original. Look at and compre the "X"-section before installing.

Cheers
DD

 

Those prices for UJs are crazy!

 

Your CV shaft U-Joint part numbers are Moog/Precision 331, a very common (and inexpensive) u-joint. They are a direct cross from the JLM1388. Should be available at your local parts store or online for between $20-30.

 

Picked up a couple Moog 331's and they went in perfectly. However I noticed if I hold the axle's diff side yoke down with my feet and push/pull on the wheel side yoke I can feel a bit of play with the new Moog's installed, which feels like it's coming from both U-joints. It's hard to tell how much when doing that, but maybe a couple mm? Is this just always going to happen with U-joints? I haven't put it back into the car yet so I can't say how bad it will be once the wheel is back on.

I have just done the ones on the other side halfshaft using Powertune U-joints (the ones that are found from Jag vendors if going off the Jag PN, and not going for OEM supplier) and when I put that in the car it had significantly more play than the original U-joints that were in there... Unless U-joint bearings are ever so slightly tapered where tenths of a mm variance in cap position can cause play, I can't see anything that I could have done wrong. If it's just the way that they are, then I probably just spent all this time and money for nothing.

 

How did this work out? Are the Moog 331s still working good? It's sounding like I have this work in my future!

Picked up a couple Moog 331's and they went in perfectly. However I noticed if I hold the axle's diff side yoke down with my feet and push/pull on the wheel side yoke I can feel a bit of play with the new Moog's installed, which feels like it's coming from both U-joints. It's hard to tell how much when doing that, but maybe a couple mm? Is this just always going to happen with U-joints? I haven't put it back into the car yet so I can't say how bad it will be once the wheel is back on.

I have just done the ones on the other side halfshaft using Powertune U-joints (the ones that are found from Jag vendors if going off the Jag PN, and not going for OEM supplier) and when I put that in the car it had significantly more play than the original U-joints that were in there... Unless U-joint bearings are ever so slightly tapered where tenths of a mm variance in cap position can cause play, I can't see anything that I could have done wrong. If it's just the way that they are, then I probably just spent all this time and money for nothing.[/QUOTE]

 

I checked them again recently when I greased them, and they both seemed fairly tight. At the very least, they haven't gotten any worse than when I installed them ~25k mi ago? That or my standards have gone down. Either way, I don't think I've had any issues, no unusual noises or anything.

 

A couple of mm? That would be a huge play even if divided across two UJs. A new UJ typically has less than 0.075 mm (0.003 in.) of backlash which is very hard to feel. Did your new UJ bearing caps go snug into the yoke bores?

 

He quoted my old post and something broke in the formatting, probably missed a format tag at the start.

Anyway, I think I may have been exaggerating the play somewhat, but I don't remember really, it was so long ago. It was definitely noticeable by hand, though I'm pretty good at feeling even a slight bit of play in bearings from wrenching on bikes for so long. In any case, when I had the car in the air and pushed on the rear wheels at 12oclock, there was very little play. One side was almost zero, other side was a slight bit of existing play from the diff output bearing. Definitely not the amount that would be expected from 2mm at the hub center.