I let my X308 sit for three weeks and now I've noticed an oil leak around the rear-most bolt on the right (passenger) side cam cover. I found the leak when I started the car up, drove a couple miles to the gas station, opened the hood to check the oil and saw smoke.

So, now I know what I'm going to be doing this weekend.

I've read the threads on this site about removing the cam covers, and I'm confident that I'll be able to pull it off (no pun intended... okay, pun intended!) if I take my time and have the right tools and equipment and parts, which shouldn't be an issue as soon as I decide what gasket set to buy.

While I'm in there, I'll probably replace the injector seals that I bought a long time ago when my indy mechanic made a mess of my car replacing my thermostat housing. By the time I found the o-rings, he had the car back together and it worked fine until now.

Anything else I should/could do while I've got the engine all apart?

 

right hand valve cover gaskets + sparkplug seals = easy

left hand = a bit harder

the injector seals ... it just got a lot harder and more painstaking

if the intake has to come off, then the usual recommendation is that the two heater hoses underneath be replaced.

the usual caveat on the injector seals is that they be lubed before install to avoid nicks and cuts from the injectors.

and maybe you might as well change the plugs since you will be 90 percent of the way there

oh ... and take a gander at your tensioners while visible ... even if they are the metal ones it couldn't hurt to look at their condition.

 

I haven't looked into the difficulty of replacing the injector seals, so I don't know what more work needs to be done. I did replace the spark plugs about 40k miles ago, so I could do that again. I do plan to check the tensioners as well. As for the two heater hoses, I think I had that done last year -- long story, but it all has to do with the t-stat tower fiasco that I caused because I was in too much of a hurry!

 

If it were my car I would leave the injectors alone. The seals are apparently working now, and the old adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it" should apply.

 

The reason I mentioned the injector seals is because last year when I had the work done the mechanic told me that the seals needed to be replaced, but Jaguar only sells the injectors with the seals and the seals aren't available by themselves. By the time I found the seals by themselves in a rebuild kit, the mechanic had it back together using the old seals. I agree - if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If it's a big deal to replace them, then I won't bother with it. Thanks for your comment, common sense isn't always my strong suit!

 

I remember reading about your ordeal at that time. You certainly had more than your share of problems back then. It's good to see that your issues are more routine now.

 

I replaced the cam cover gaskets and rings on the passenger's side. Wasn't terribly difficult. I have to do the other side one of these days, but since there's no leak on the driver's side, it kind of falls into the "if it ain't broke" category!

 

Hi OldMike,


I need to replace cam cover gasket too on my '01. I am somewhat confused to the model to use as I came across two (or even three) possible variations. Some show the kit with the inner o-ring gasket in 2 pieces (per side), others show individual inner O-rings. As to part #, I came across NCA2515(or 2516 for other side)AD or AE. Any suggestion? What did you use?


Cheers

 

OldMike,

If you decide to go through with removing the injectors to replace the O-ring seals, you might also consider cleaning the injectors while you have them out. Below are links to photos of how I cleaned ours and replaced the O-rings and filters with parts from an inexpensive kit purchased on eBay. The most challenging thing was to figure out how to remove the old filters, but I devised a puller from cheap hardware store parts and it worked great.

Even if you don't pressure-flush the injectors like I did, or ultrasonically clean them like the commercial cleaners do, you could at least soak them overnight in a good fuel system cleaning concentrate.

Cheers,

Don

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Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page

 

I was initially confused as well but I took someone's advice and bought the gasket set for the 2000 Lincoln LS -- Part # VS50724R if I remember right (I'll check it an update this post if I'm wrong).

If you don't care that your car is undriveable for a short while, you could take the cam covers off and see what you have. The kit I bought was readily available at Advance Auto Parts, so I did take mine off 1st just to double check before getting the kit.

 

Thanks for the info. I also bought an inexpensive seal kit when my mechanic was telling me that I had to replace all of the fuel injectors because the seals aren't sold separately! He wanted $200 each, for a total of $1,600 -- I got the kit for around $35. By the time I got the kit, he had the car back together using the old seals and it apparently is working fine, that was last year, so I'm going to leave it alone for now.

BTW I don't even know how to remove the fuel rail! LOL

 

Valve covers are a piece of cake. Size 10 bolts and 8 on the fuel injector bracket. Hold the cheese bracket back as you're pulling the cover off that seems to interfere its path when removing the covers. Coil plugs are also size 8 If I'm correct and keep them in order (not that it matters that's just what I do) There also a few spots I would put a dab of silicone on near the front timing cover and possibly the rear.

 

What's a cheese bracket? I'm originally from Wisconsin, I'd like to know what a cheese bracket is!

 

Did the drivers side today. The oil dipstick tube is a real pain, but when it popped off it got a lot easier. It pushed back on very easily. Had a lot of oil in one plug well, used a turkey blaster to suck it out.

 

Hmmm.... Isn't a Turkey Blaster a 12-gauge shotgun??? :-)

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Cheers,

Don

 

Well, I guess it would be! Whoops!

 

Interesting set up Don ;o)
I have used similar set ups over the years.
I have also found that the use of one of those small sonic cleaners does wonders.
Just the right size for hanging three injectors suspended in solution for 20 mins.
I reckon they come out as clean as the commercial set ups.

Witht the advent of the Jaguar V8 in '97, the AJ26 variant was originally fitted with Denso 'side entry' injectors which are unique to the model and very easy to remove as the fuel rail is built into the intake manifold and the injectors are held in with anular plates and two screws.
There was a special little jaguar tool x two to prise the injectors from their seats and i made similar ones from alooy stock to the same shape.;o)

The later AJ27 engine reverted to 'inline' injectors not dissimilar to the earlier X300's and employed a different mounting system which is a lot more fiddly to deal with because of the 'air charge' system employed on this model.

Whatever you do, it's not a good practice to use engine oil on injector seals, it will rot them.
Only ever use petroleum jelly or di-electric grease.

 

Hi Max!

The recommendation to use engine oil on injector seals comes directly from the Jaguar service manual. :-)

I also recommended di-electric grease because it is a common O-ring lubricant (the can even says so).

Petroleum jelly is probably safe on most automotive rubbers, but it is not safe for most plastics, as I know you are aware but I am stating for the benefit of others who will read this thread.

Below is a link to photos that show the injectors for the XJ40s (early and late) and '95-'96 X300s (both N/A and S/C). Why I have all of these injectors is a long story, but suffice it to say that even Jaguar parts specialists do not always have a clear understanding of the correct injector part numbers for the different models.

Cheers,

Don

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page

 

Howdy Don....yes, I know Jaguar reccomended it...but I reckon it was written by some plonker in an office who wouldn't know his **** from his elbow ;o)=)
And yes...perhaps i should have clarified that a bit more ;o)
Pet. jelly yes....no goodie plasticy.
If a seal normally runs in engine oil or grease, then engine oil is fine.
Modern seals are constructed from different compounds to what they used to be making then far more reliable.
If they are not designed to run in oil, then modern oils which have far more chemical
'packages' can attack various types of seals. ;o]

 

Is there a thread about removing and cleaning the injectors? If not, one of you guys should start one for the benefit of ... well, of ME!