XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Water pump

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Old May 28, 2009 | 06:01 PM
  #1  
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Default Water pump

I need to replace the water pump in my 2002 XJ8. I ordered the new part, but my problem is I don't know how to remove the old one. I downloaded the JTIS manual and I could not find anything about the water pump removal.

I used the search feature and could not find anything specific.

Has anyone done one of these replacement installs thanks!
 
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Old May 28, 2009 | 06:47 PM
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Drain the radiator. Remove the supercharger drive belt if XJR. Loosen the three screws, which secure the water pump pulley.

CAUTION: When releasing the belt tension, never apply any torque in a clockwise direction to the pulley center bolt (left hand thread) as it could subsequently loosen. Remove the drive belt from the generator and accessory drive. Use a wrench on the center bolt of the belt tensioner idler pulley, to turn the adjuster assembly to the left against spring tension. While holding the tensioner against spring tension, remove the drive belt from the generator pulley. Release the tensioner slowly and remove the wrench. Disconnect the belt from the other pulleys, as necessary, to move it clear of the pump pulley.

Remove the pulley from the water pump. Remove the pulley securing screws. Remove the pulley from the water pump.

Remove the five bolts, which secure the water pump. Remove the water pump from the engine. Remove the gasket. Remove and discard the water pump gasket. Remove and discard the water pump O-ring seal. Clean all the mating surfaces.

Installation

Just reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the pump securing bolts to 11-13 Nm and the pulley bolts to 10-14 Nm .
 
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 03:26 PM
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Default water pump

Originally Posted by wazari
Drain the radiator. Remove the supercharger drive belt if XJR. Loosen the three screws, which secure the water pump pulley.

CAUTION: When releasing the belt tension, never apply any torque in a clockwise direction to the pulley center bolt (left hand thread) as it could subsequently loosen. Remove the drive belt from the generator and accessory drive. Use a wrench on the center bolt of the belt tensioner idler pulley, to turn the adjuster assembly to the left against spring tension. While holding the tensioner against spring tension, remove the drive belt from the generator pulley. Release the tensioner slowly and remove the wrench. Disconnect the belt from the other pulleys, as necessary, to move it clear of the pump pulley.

Remove the pulley from the water pump. Remove the pulley securing screws. Remove the pulley from the water pump.

Remove the five bolts, which secure the water pump. Remove the water pump from the engine. Remove the gasket. Remove and discard the water pump gasket. Remove and discard the water pump O-ring seal. Clean all the mating surfaces.

Installation

Just reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the pump securing bolts to 11-13 Nm and the pulley bolts to 10-14 Nm .
Hi Wazari,

I just want to ask you a question regarding a 98 VDP water pump and thermostat housing. For the water pump, I ordered a new one from the dealership and for some reason, it doesn't match my existing one. The location of bolts is somewhat different. Any suggestions? Also, would you recommend swapping the plastic thermostat housing with an aluminum housing (sold at Welsh Enterprises, Inc.). Thanks. Bill
 
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 08:59 PM
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Default Thermostat Housing

Bill, My observations on this forum would indicate the aluminum thermostat housing is the way to go. The rear bolt/s (can't remember 1 or 2) under the intake can be tricky to get out without removing the intake manifold, but possible. Try some searches for this and you will see some posts regarding removal of these bolt/s, and "special tool" creations.
Good Luck
Ralph
 
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Rae
Bill, My observations on this forum would indicate the aluminum thermostat housing is the way to go. The rear bolt/s (can't remember 1 or 2) under the intake can be tricky to get out without removing the intake manifold, but possible. Try some searches for this and you will see some posts regarding removal of these bolt/s, and "special tool" creations.
Good Luck
Ralph
Thanks Ralph. I appreciate the advice.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #6  
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By all means replace the plastic housing as it will leak sooner than later. If you have the aluminum housing in hand do not be bashful about destroying the old one. Break it apart with a pair of pliers. That will allow easy access to the rear bolts. Cut a slot into the head of the bolts with a Dremel tool to allow screwing them down with a screwdriver before tightening them with a 'crows foot' wrench, short socket, or bent wrench. If you cannot relate to the aforementioned do a search on the terms.

Another thought; the bright aluminum housing looks a little out of place on an otherwise black engine. Jaguar painted the plastic housing black, no reason not to paint the aluminum housing black also.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 09:03 PM
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Good advice, testpoint. I did it the hard way with homemede crowsfeet. I would also recommend going back with socket head cap screws which you can tighten with a ball end allen driver.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by test point
By all means replace the plastic housing as it will leak sooner than later. If you have the aluminum housing in hand do not be bashful about destroying the old one. Break it apart with a pair of pliers. That will allow easy access to the rear bolts. Cut a slot into the head of the bolts with a Dremel tool to allow screwing them down with a screwdriver before tightening them with a 'crows foot' wrench, short socket, or bent wrench. If you cannot relate to the aforementioned do a search on the terms.

Another thought; the bright aluminum housing looks a little out of place on an otherwise black engine. Jaguar painted the plastic housing black, no reason not to paint the aluminum housing black also.
Thanks Testpoint. I actually have the engine out and installing it tomorrow. It's a much easier process this way. I'm putting in a new engine with new steel tensioners. I do have one more question though. Regarding the bluetooth/iPod system, I tried opening one of your links with another veteran but can't access his post due to my newbie status. I'm looking to install both bluetooth and an iPod aux input. Thanks again...Bill
 
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 07:52 PM
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You should be able to open/download things by now. Here is the link to the most popular discussion on BlueTooth / Ipod. I still have my T605 in the box. Maybe when it gets colder and I am looking for some heated garage projects along with my reach motor issue.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...4&postcount=13
 
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by test point
You should be able to open/download things by now. Here is the link to the most popular discussion on BlueTooth / Ipod. I still have my T605 in the box. Maybe when it gets colder and I am looking for some heated garage projects along with my reach motor issue.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...4&postcount=13
Thank you Testpoint. I was able to open it. Looking forward to your T605 project.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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THe T605 truly works GREAT, with very easy installation, fyi...
 
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by QuadManiac
THe T605 truly works GREAT, with very easy installation, fyi...
Thanks Testpoint. The installation is quite elaborate though doable. I'm still not clear on what features get knocked out with the radio controls.
 
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