Late last week I noticed the cooling fans running abnormally long after shutdown. Hmm, I sez, hook up the reader and see what's going on. It was running between 213 -217 with spikes up to 222. Cool overcast day, ambient temp low 70's. Hmmm... Not good. Not with the temperature gauge being the glorified idiot light that it is. That's a little too close to engine-go-bye-bye territory.

Since I've never touched the water pump, I assumed it was the original. Having visions of eroded fins in my head, it was time for a replacement. So I ordered the AW4124 replacement model. Expecting white plastic fins, I was amused to find a metal impeller instead when I unboxed it. Additionally, it comes with a pretty flimsy metal gasket, and no replacement O-ring. I'm okay with a metal turbine, but the gasket didn't impress. I usually reuse O-rings if they're in good shape. Never seen one that wasn't.



See those 3 little tabs on the gasket? They fit into 3 little slots cut into the main aperature. I can think of absolutely no reason for them to be there. The 5 bolts hold the gasket in place, right? Three potential leaky spots if you ask me. Undeterred, I took it in stride, and pressed on. I guess I was in the mood for a challenge today. I also ordered and received another 183 Stant Thermostat.

I tackled the thermostat first. Yup, still have the original plastic tower. When removing the 3 bolts of the cover, ALL 3 spun the metal threaded inserts. Thanks Jag. Somehow, I got 1 bolt out. Resorting to prying now, I got the other 2 out along with the inserts still attached. Smear them with epoxy, and shove 'em back in I sez. Plan!

Water pump next. Remove the old pump, and find a perfectly intact white impeller. No play in the shaft either. Dont'cha know! I press on. Reuse perfect O-ring, align flimsy gasket on new pump, install pump. Hook hoses back up and give it drink. Niagara falls out the bottom. Uh... yeah. Remove pump, scratch head. Gotta be those 3 indents. Trace metal gasket on a roll of gasket material I have, (if you don't have this in your garage, get some!), and create/cut another layer of gasket for it. Also, I had half a tube of brown permatex. Awesome! Slap it all together, tighten bolts... SNAP! The bottom bolt breaks in the block. And I SWEAR I wasn't even torquing it much at all. Was just about to put the torque wrench on it for it's final snug. Oh man.

Remove pump and low and behold, 1/8 inch of broken bolt is sticking out. Thank God! Remove it with needle nose. Run to Home Despot for a replacement bolt. Come back, and bolt it all down again. Hook hoses back up, and give it another drink. No leaks!

Refill per correct procedure and at about 183 degress, the expansion tank bleed hose decides to pack it in. Nice little stream shooting up in the air near the tower connection. And the thermostat cover is weeping.

So... water pump = check! Seems okay. Ordered a metal thermo tower just now, which I should have done long ago. And I guess I'll call the Jag dealer tomorrow and just see how much they want for a new bleed line.

At least it didn't rain on me today.

 

Are you sure you have the updated water pump ?

I did both of mine recently and the new water pumps both had plastic impellers, paper/card gaskets and (if I remember correctly) specifically said that the design did not need or use an o ring. Installed both with no leaks at all.

I had the same issue with the thermo tower when my thermostat failed (failed open so engine could not get up to temp properly). The two rear bolts on the thermo tower are a pig to get at, I ended up breaking the plastic thermo tower apart bit by bit to remove it as with age and heat it had become brittle.

When I put in the metal tower I cut slots in the top of the rear bolts to allow the use of a screwdriver to tighten them - worked like a charm for me.

 

I thought I was. There seems to be a few variations of AW4124 for sale on Ebay. I picked a cheap one I guess. I don't care. It seems well built, gasket notwithstanding.

Forum member RobertJag posted a brilliant DIY a few years ago that I'm going to use next week when I get my metal tower. Breaking up the old plastic one is just my idea of fun.

I was thinking of buying new allen head bolts for the back corners, but actually, cutting slots will work just fine too... save me a trip to the hardware store, which would turn into 3 trips probably.

Did you have clearance issues when removing the back bolts? Did they bonk their heads on the intake manifold with a thread or 2 left? And did you just let that happen, pushing up into it 'till the threads cleared? That sounds to me like the way its supposed to go down, but I'd be interested if you can confirm your experience. Thanks!

 

+1 on the screwdriver slots: inspite of what you might read elsewhere, there are no small wrenches to allow easy access to those rear bolts. Many raise the intake manifold; some use Allen or hex head bolts bought separately. I found that shorter bolts used elsewhere on the TST were easier to fit in the rear and then cut slots with a dremel tool for tightening with a thin, but very long screwdriver and then fiddled with thin open-end wrenches (after buying bunches of other wrenches to find one thin enough) to tighten just a bit more -- the O-ring did most of the work. If I were doing it again, I would buy a new gasket for the intake manifold and remove it and then change the heater hoses, as well.

There are purveyors on this site that sell the plastic tubes cheaper than the dealer. Broke mine while doing the tensioners; bought a new one from the dealer; took it in for an oil change and a brake bleed, got it back and a third tube was in place: even the pros break them.

 

So swap 2 shorter bolts from the Thermostat cover for the back corners of the tower, and cut slots in 'em, eh?

 

If you decide to get shorter bolts for the rear then probably as well to just get screws for it instead.

Can't recall having clearance problems but it is possible that I just don't remember. Breaking up the old tower to remove was quite good for releaving frustration, just be careful not to drop any of the plastic bits down into the engine.

 

I have a bent wrench left over from my last tower install . . . and I do mean last tower install if anyone wants to use it. It loosens the rear bolts easily. Actually it is 5/16" rather than 8mm but it is the same size.

Yes, the rear bolts are about an eighth of an inch too long and you do have to sorta pry them out. I swapped with the thermostat bolts which are just right. The longer bolts work just fine up front.

Shipped free. All you have to do is insure it gets passed on the next person that needs it.

 

I appreciate the offer, but my plan is to put this to bed on Mon-Tue. Thanks for the info on the swapping bolt scenario too.


TBerry, Yep, I'll be careful with the plastic shrapnel. I'm unfortunately well aware of it's brittle state. I'll also try to avoid any more calamities with the bleed hose, like coughing or sneezing in it's general direction.

 

I'd return that pump and refit the white impeller one (with the paper gasket paper), reason being the alloy fins can cause cavitation. White=good, black=bad.

 

Test,
I could use the tool and volunteer to be the "wrench bearer" until someone else needs it.

PM me for shipping info.
Vector

 

You can use a 8mm or 5/16" crowfoot wrench to remove the back bolts on the
coolant tower.

P O R (Press On Regardless)

 

Installed Aluminum Thermo Tower without a hitch today, well sort of:

• Removed expansion tank cover and drained Coolant - just about 1 gallon.
• Loosened hose clamps and moved hoses off coolant outlet pipe and removed it's 4 bolts. Pushed it off to side. Broke temp sensor plastic retaining clip in process of trying to remove it. Left coolant temp sensor attached. Note: Should have left it alone entirely.
• Removed weeping thermo cover and thermostat, preserving bolts.
• Removed 2 front thermo tower bolts
• Using skinniest sharpest flat-blade screwdriver in toolbox as chisel, perforated plastic base with hammer strikes in front of 2 rear bolts. Didn't take much - clean break, no shards. Note: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...w+coolant+leak Post #78 RobertJag - you 'da man! Plugged coolant passage with fat wad of paper towels to keep schmutz and back bolts from falling in (next).
• Both back tower bolts bonked their heads on intake with a thread or two left yet to clear - just let it happen till bolts fell over (sorta - was easy to tell anyway) - removed cautiously.
• Cleaned surface area after removal.
• Dremeled slots on 2 of the thermo cover short bolts
• Sat new thermo tower with new O-rings in place. Placed slotted bolts in back holes with curved hemostat - no fat-fingers here, or under the intake you'll fish.
• Screwed back slotted bolts down with appropriately sized screw driver as tight as possible.
• Ran front long bolts down tight. Re-visited back slotted bolts with open end 8mm - got them snug as possible with almost no wrench swing possible. Note: I should have taken TESTPOINT up on his offer above. Will revisit with a modified wrench soon if they start leaking.
• Re-installed thermostat with new O-ring, jiggle-pin up - tightened cover with 1 short, and now 2 long swapped from back of tower.
• Clipped electrical connections (not sure exactly what they are) to new thermo tower secure flanges on sides.
• Reversed removal procedure for coolant pipe outlet - checked O-rings, looked okay.
• Gave it a drink, no leaks!
• Refilled per procedure, bodge broke loose on expansion tank/thermo tower bleed hose - slow drip.

When cooled after refill and topping off, warmed it up and drove 6 miles with live scanner attached. It wants to run between 195f - 197f with a/c blasting. That's ~20 degrees cooler than with old leaky tower and old thermostat. Awesome.


I guess I'll break down and spend $40 at the Jag house tomorrow for a new bleed hose (that was my hitch) - Then I'll call it done.

 

I installed an aluminum thermostat tower, along with a new water pump, serpentine belt, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, part load breather hose and various new gaskets and coolant hoses. Fun day!

Everything seems to work good, drove about 25 miles with no leaks or overheating etc. That aluminum housing just looks great on there to me. It's my wife's car and I feel better about her driving it now.

Incidentally, I re-used the same bolts (longer ones) when re-installing the tower. I ordered a small and rather expensive attachment for my 1/4 inch ratchet that made removing the rear bolts possible. It was still a little time consuming, but they came off and went back on just fine.


I did however have to remove the throttle body in order to install the part load breather hose. It gave me a chance to clean it thoroughly and install a new gasket.

This site has been SO helpful. Thanks.

 

Thanks for that link. I think I'll heat up and bend a sacrificial wrench if I need it - just 'cuz. When that fails, I'll buy or borrow one.

I firmly believe that if wives didn't exist, our cars would closely resemble "Road Warrior" vehicles.

 

I'm $40 poorer today for the bleed hose, but she's fixed. 25 miles with a/c on, 192 - 195 avg. temp.