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Got around to installing my intercooler radiator today.
I want to get an electric fan mounted in front of it. I also plan on getting a water temperature sensor mounted on the outlet side of the intercooler radiator and possibly a boost gauge. I have an alcohol injection kit that I had on my Buick that I’m going to put on this car.
Tnut55, I have an 03’ SV8, my wife has a 00’ XJ8 and my daughter is driving my old 98’ XJR. As long as the maintenance and issues are sorted out relatively quickly, they aren’t such a bad vehicle. You do have be familiar and patient with them though.
Fitted a new Water Pump, Temperature Sensor, Thermostat, and Accessory Drive Belt to try and fix a P0117 fault ECT Sensor Low Reading. Turned out to be the Connector to the Temp Sensor, the inside of it just crumbled as soon as I touched it.
Paul
Got around to installing my intercooler radiator today.
I want to get an electric fan mounted in front of it. I also plan on getting a water temperature sensor mounted on the outlet side of the intercooler radiator and possibly a boost gauge. I have an alcohol injection kit that I had on my Buick that I’m going to put on this car.
the ebay specials are gone. no way i’m paying powerhouse for this
Actually, mine is a fun car to drive. But here is what I dislike about it. At 6'2" and considering my age (with a stiff spine), it is a difficult car to get into and get out of, torture really.
It is a flaky car. Too many intermittent problems that are not hard fails and don't last long enough to diagnose. The worst and most dangerous one being the occasional limp home or restricted performance mode. It happens very infrequently and has never happened to me personally. It always happens to my wife, who doesn't understand how cars work and never takes note of gauge readings, warning lights or messages while the event is happening. It is dangerous because the car literally stalls when it happens but is fine if turned off and restarted. I can't get concise, informed details to venture a repair.
Compared to many other cars I have owned, it is a real pain to work on.
In the end, it is just the reliability of the 19 year old vehicle. I can't trust it so it is relegated to local trips only and then only if my second vehicle is otherwise tied up.
Put a coat of ceramic wax on it and changed the oil. Given the warmer weather here yet, I mixed 3qts of 10W40 Valvoline Maxlife semi synthetic I had here with 5qts 5W30 of the same Valvoline Maxlife semi synthetic. Used a Wix 51228 filter which is longer than the purolator that was on it. Not a fan of purolator. Yesterday i tore into the driver's door to find the issue with it not staying open. Ordered a used oem door check off ebay for $25.
Last edited by 60Gunner; Aug 15, 2021 at 02:25 PM.
Actually, mine is a fun car to drive. But here is what I dislike about it. At 6'2" and considering my age (with a stiff spine), it is a difficult car to get into and get out of, torture really.
It is a flaky car. Too many intermittent problems that are not hard fails and don't last long enough to diagnose. The worst and most dangerous one being the occasional limp home or restricted performance mode. It happens very infrequently and has never happened to me personally. It always happens to my wife, who doesn't understand how cars work and never takes note of gauge readings, warning lights or messages while the event is happening. It is dangerous because the car literally stalls when it happens but is fine if turned off and restarted. I can't get concise, informed details to venture a repair.
Compared to many other cars I have owned, it is a real pain to work on.
In the end, it is just the reliability of the 19 year old vehicle. I can't trust it so it is relegated to local trips only and then only if my second vehicle is otherwise tied up.
I had the exact same intermittent symptoms on my 2003 XJ8. It is very sensitive to state of battery charge so I use a battery maintainer a couple of days a week. What has solved it (no symptoms for over a year) was a
throttle body rebuild from ASI. Both the pedal position sensor and the throttle position sensor had been opened and resealed with epoxy, so I am assuming these had been rebuilt. Now I'm totally confident in the car.
"Handbrake rebuild". Wasn't planning too, but the rear wheel stank of burning brakes and was quite hot after a trip on the motorway. The retaining pins had fallen out of their rusty holes, surprise surprise.
Read a post by Race Diagnostics regarding the use of split washers used on other cars, so I got those from eBay, trimmed then to fit and stuck them in with super glue and araldite epoxy.
I'm hoping that'll fix it!
Took about 2mm off the inside edge of the pin as there's not much leeway when installed Trimmed the split washers with a Dremel and flattened then slightly too, with a couple of slaps of a hammer. Glued them in! Probably easier to weld the hole and recut but I wasn't in a welding mood 😁
Soldered buttons to replace the not so good pcb contact strips in the keyfob. Now it makes feelable click and works. Fob working distance varies greatly though. Sometimes i need to be right next to the car and sometimes 10metres away. Atleast now i feel fob is presumably sending.
Had to swerve to avoid hitting a dog whilest making a right turn & hit the curb. Today my rear passenger tire's going flat. Not really big on tire repairs but these tires are only @ about 6K miles on Michelins. Going to inflate her & hit the tire shop about 3 blocks away tomm.
Last edited by King Charles; Aug 25, 2021 at 10:03 PM.
Finally took it on a proper (though still sorta small) road trip, and went car camping. Only took me a few years too long to get around to doing so, wanted to do so since the first time I drove an x308.
Also topped off the SC oil after I saw some leaking out from the snout (did this before the trip). Probably only low by ~1oz at the most. After the trip, no oil leak. Fixed itself like magic. Guess I've now got some motivation to finish rebuilding the GenV blower I've had collecting dust, and install that.
Pulled the engine covers off. No need to trap the heat. Motor is just as clean under them too.
I don't really see why you should do that, these engines operate perfectly fine with al covers in place.
However, more important, your coolant hoses are installed wrong at the expansion tank, they should be "crossed", allowing extra pressure to release to the second expansion tank in the wing.
I don't really see why you should do that, these engines operate perfectly fine with al covers in place.
However, more important, your coolant hoses are installed wrong at the expansion tank, they should be "crossed", allowing extra pressure to release to the second expansion tank in the wing.
You're right. How does it even work like it is? I'm going to assume the quick connect was broke and that hose ran but why switch them?. Going to take a little doing to change that I reckon. Why would someone switch them around?
The covers had to come for now anyway as I have a few projects to attend to. I may put them back on pending heat comparisons. As a rule they only serve to trap heat. I'll take your word that's not the case here?
No offense but I've seen posts/threads here claiming the same thing about cats.
You're right. How does it even work like it is? I'm going to assume the quick connect was broke and that hose ran but why switch them?. Going to take a little doing to change that I reckon. Why would someone switch them around?
The covers had to come for now anyway as I have a few projects to attend to. I may put them back on pending heat comparisons. As a rule they only serve to trap heat. I'll take your word that's not the case here?
No offense but I've seen posts/threads here claiming the same thing about cats.
First thing I (and probably some others here) look at if I see an engine bay pic, it's a common error.
It seems to run ok with it, but probably does not suck the coolant back up after release in the secondary tank.
On engine temperatures, I live in a (semi)tropical climate, with high temperatures, high humidity, and mostly hills and mountains.
I monitor my engine temps in real time, and they run perfectly at ~95C (200-205F), with a max of 105C (220F) at high loads, up mountain, etc.
Once the fans kick into high gear, you see the temps drop almost immediately.
Just be sure that the cooling system is up to snuff, besides of the usual, particular the thermostat (replace every couple of yrs), and water-pump.
