Hello Jaguar lovers, I am planning to look at a 2000 XJR - about 90k miles. Anything I should know about this year/model and what to look for? I am new to Jags and just wanted to know from you experienced owners what pitfalls could be lurking. Thanks!

 

Welcome lamont74....ask if the tensioners and chains have been changed. Look at the shock towers for rubber fragments, this will indicate the shock bushings are gone. Which in turn will almost certainly guarantee the rear shocks will have the same issue, along with replacement of both sets of shocks. Staying on the shocks, if there is a electrical lead on the top of the front shock posts, then it has CATS (Computer Active Technology Suspension). For simplicity, you'll need to do some searches on sight here and read up on it. I have it on mine and love it.
If you don't have the wire leads (barring they removed them) then you have a standard suspension with 2 optional shock packages.
Check the back edge of the drivers door for the exterior paint code and interior trim code and you can reference them on the net for authenticity of both finishes.
Verify the VIN and body parts with the VIN on them.... dash lower driver side windshield, passenger side fender inside the drip edge, trunk (I believe in the drip edge), I don't recall where the one on the motor is and I believe there are 2 other locations that don't come to mind?
Check the wheel bearings for play, they are pressed if you are not experienced with them. If it has a sunroof, check the drains and the function of the track.
I'll leave some for some to chime in on....let us know what you find and feel free to ask if your in doubt. Just keep it in this same thread, so we can review it easier.

 

In addition to Highhorse's remarks, and some additional issues related to the super charger, here a checklist, partly general, partly specific for the x308 (the original list is not my creation, but is floating around this forum, credit to the writer).

For the rest, google and the search function on this forum are your friend, this question has been asked a million times before (including me before I bought my VDP ).

Jaguar XJ8 4.0L VDP - Check List

Tools to take with you
• Digital Camera
• Inspection Mirror
• Creeper
• Jack
• Jack Stands
• Bright Mini Flashlight and batteries
• Tread Depth Gauge
• Compact Disc with music on it.
• Watch

Interior

• Operate all controls in the vehicle and verify they are functioning in every way.
• Check all exterior lights.
• Check Operation of Mirrors
• Operate Air Conditioning and verify outlet temp.
• Check all Seat Heaters Front and Rear.
• Check Armrest Cupholder and verify it’s not broken.
• Operate Wiper and Washer. Check for smooth operation and even delay time.
• Erratic operation is a problem to watch for.
• Check Headliner. Make sure fabric is not separating.
• Check condition of all wood trim. Some clearcoat cracks are normal. Split wood is another issue.
• Check condition of seating surfaces
• Verify function of power seats and lumbar support.
• Verify that both keys Start the car.
• Check the function of both remotes.
• Verify the radio unlock code is known.
• Verify function of CD Player.
• Turn up the volume and listen for bad speakers.
• Verify the clock works and keeps time.
• Look under spare wheel booth for damaged bodywork

Exterior

• Check all painted surfaces and look for inconsistencies in gaps and paint.
• Check body panels and note all damage.
• Check condition of windshield.
• Check Door Jambs for evidence of paint overspray.
• Check every body panel for the factory Jaguar VIN tag. Verify last 4 digits. The hood, decklid, doors and bumper beams will have tags if the panels are original.
• Look for corrosion on the rear wheel arches.
• Look for corrosion round the front and rear screens especially underneath the screen rubbers in the bottom corners.
• Look for corrosion at bottom of the front wings.
• Look for corrosion behind the front shocks on both sides. There's a reinforcing plate where the engine sub frame is bolted to the body rail and some cars have corroded badly here. This corrosion may also be visible in the engine compartment on the top of the body rail around the heads of the bolts that retain the top of the V mounts.

Underhood

• Cold start and check for Valvetrain Noise. Verify temp of engine, then start. If it rattles it needs Timing Chain Tensioners.
• Verify Timing Tensioners have been replaced.
• Once cold started turn around immediately and verify it did not spew a cloud of blue smoke.
• Remove Oil Cap and Dipstick to look for sludge buildup. Peer down in valve cover and look at the valvetrain. Is it clean or a carmel brown? Any sludge?
• Check Valve Cover Breather Hoses and look for sludge inside or if it’s full of oil.
• Remove the Intake Air Inlet Hose and look for sludge or if it’s dripping with oil.
• Check throttle body for buildup of sludge.
• Check MAF for buildup of sludge.
• Check Air Filter for evidence of oil.
• Nicasil Engine check - Remove oil cap on warm running engine and look for excessive oil vapor or moisture.
• Verify Water Pump has been replaced.
Verify Thermostat Housing is Aluminum
You may be able to identify the later type of pump by the presence of a black plastic, not metal gasket,
• Verify Thermostat has been replaced.
• Look for Gasket Leaks
• Verify Throttle Body Replacement
• Verify if Engine was replaced. If Engine is a Remanufactured unit it should have Blue Temp Strips on the rear of the Cylinder Heads. Try to view with an inspection mirror and the flashlight.
Symptoms of bore erosion resulting in loss of compression are poor cold starting, a rough idle and heavy oil deposits in the breather system and air intakes.

Underbody / Suspension

• Verify tread depth and that tires are worn evenly.
• Check condition of wheels/rims. Curbed?
• Look at brake rotors. High ridges on outer edge tell you they are worn.
• Look for Transmission Leaks
• Check smooth shifting, and smooth shifting on acceleration
• Verify if Transmission was replaced.
• Look for Differential Leaks
• Verify Differential Service.
• Verify Trans Fluid has been drained and refilled.
• Verify Wheel Bearings have been serviced.
• Look for rust under all footwells.
• Look for evidence of car being bottomed out.
• Check condition of ball joints and tie rods.
• Check condition of shocks.

 

All that being said...buy the best one you can find within your budget. What may seem like a deal, if it needs a lot of (expensive) work done, you'll be upside down before you know it. That being said, if things like the tensioners have been done, the tranny rebuilt if you settle on an XJ8 (or the valve upgrade done before the input (A) drum has been damaged, which is NOT an issue on the XJR) and the body and trimmings are in decent shape...once the major issues have been addressed, the cars are relatively reliable, considering that the oldest are now 19 years old...and the newest are in the mid-teens in age.

What you'll be rewarded with is a ride like no other...I've driven well-sorted Rolls of the same vintage which, for more money, don't ride or handle as nicely, nor have the 'presence' that a Jag has. The XJR is firmer, and you have the added complexity of the supercharger and cooling plumbing to contend with...but other than that...what applies to the XJ8 applies to the XJR.

Whichever you choose...welcome to the fans of the Leaper.

 

Thanks so much for the info! I am just curious how expensive it is to replace the tensioners? Anyone have an estimate?

 

Do it yourself, and you're paying for the parts and labor is free, obviously.

Ranges from $1200-1800 USD at an indie shop to your first born at the dealer (if you trust that they can...).

I trust my indie shop (he's Jag trained, and bought out a local dealer of their special tools when JLR pulled the plug out from from them); so, considering he has a full shop to work on the beast whilst I have an unheated garage and travel 80% for work...I let him take the jobs like this (which he's going to do for my -R next month...).

 

Primary and Secondary tensioners, guides and chains kit will run from around $220ish to $450ish, depending on who you buy from. The scenario kits come in 2 versions, the full kit listed and just the secondary's which run $90ish to $150...again, depending on who you buy from. It would be recommended to do the full kit.
The work itself is quite easy for general mechanical ability, here's a review for ya...Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement
If you get an XJR, then doing the hoses running under the SC is again recommended. Its not too much more since you may be doing the tensioners anyways.
For both procedures, there are plenty of threads here to review for the processes and tools required.

This is mine after engine cover reassembly, almost a year to the day:

 

The best advise .. buy in the condition you want .. buy the best you can afford.

If it's a car you plan on keeping -- my advise would be to look at 02-03 XJR's only.

I had the opportunity to purchase many x308's -- it's not worth trying to save 3k on a lesser car.

 

I agree with finding the best one that fits your budget. I just bought a 2002 XJR with 71,000 miles for $8,500. I paid a little more for it, but it has been garaged kept its entire life, I have every service record for it since new and it is in near new condition in every way. The person I purchased it from had just replaced both fuel pumps so I found a great deal of value in that.

The secondary tensioners are the biggest concern if you ask any person that owns a car with this particular 4.0 engine. Based on the build date of my XJR I decided to pull both of the cam covers to take a look last week and they are the second generation plastic tensioners, but I don't know if they are the original ones as they have almost zero wear on the guides and no cracks. I inspected them very close with a camera and I may just go ahead and replace them while it is apart. As mentioned above, you can get the secondary tensioners and required shorter bolts for about $75 and a new gasket set for about $50.

I'm pretty mechanically inclined as my cousin is an ASE Certified Master Mechanic and I have learned a lot from him. I have to admit that I am still a little nervous to change the tensioners myself, mostly because I have never done it before. I have changed out timing sprocket and chains before on my Mustang, but it only has one and didn't require special tools or methods like zip tying to get the job done.

 

Sitting patiently waiting for Spring.

 

Audiobob -- that's my point -- what pay 4k and spend 2k fixing .. when you can get a car as you did for 8500.

The x308 is at the bottom of the value curve -- the best XJS are still flat .. also time to get a XKR .. I'm looking for a low mile coupe.

 

I really like the XKR in coupe or convertible. If I didn't have a supercharged Mustang convertible I think I would have looked hard for an XKR convertible instead of an XJR.

 

As everyone else has mentioned, tensioners. Even if you have the old ones and they look good from outside, they will often have hidden issues. One of mine had a hairline split along the piston, and the other had a blown out seal. However, i was replacing mine for the primaries, as one guide had fallen to pieces and the chain was just slapping around.

You can get a set of locking bars, flywheel pin, sprocket holder on ebay for $70. The only thing that gets tricky then is the harmonic balancer locking tool. I ended up fabricating one myself with an aluminum rod, some steel pins, and a steel bar from a display cabinet as the lever arm. I'll post dimensions/pictures later. No welding needed, but it may require a metal lathe, and definitely needs a drill press.

I feel like the method for doing timing on the 4.0 is pretty foolproof. I had never done any timing related work on a car before I did primaries and secondaries on my XJR. There's no mucking about with finding cyl1 TDC, reading timing with a stroboscope, etc. You just lock the crank in the right place, lock the cams down flat, and tighten down sprockets there when it's all said and done.

I was able to get my XJR as a cheap fixer upper since at this point in my life I can justify spending a couple days of free time on repairing my car, much more than I could on spending the extra several thousand on a pristine one. Of course buying one that's well sorted already is the more sensible option...

Other things, suspension bushings. There's lots of them. Be sure to run through all of them to make sure everything is good, there's some threads on subframe/suspension overhauls that are worth a read. Also, bookmark some dealer parts pages so you can look up part numbers and see exploded diagrams of parts. This one is my go to XJ Series from (V)812317 to (V)F59525 (Canada/Mexico/USA) | Jaguar Classic Parts UK