I found the below settings on this forum, and was just wondering:

1. Are these settings indeed the official Jaguar specs?
2. Is the mentioned front TOE positive or negative?
3. Any recommendation which side of each range to target?

Car is a weekend ride, and does not see high speeds or hard cornering.

- 1998 XJ8 Vanden Plas LWB
- Staggered rims from a XKR
- Front: 8Jx18 with 245/45/18
- Rear: 9Jx18 with 275/40/18
- Original suspension settings (not lowered)

Thanks very much for any imput on this.

E.


Alignment Specifications
Note: Settings must be checked with the vehicle at 'curb' height (unladen, with full tank of fuel).

Front Suspension
Camber
Left Hand................................... -0.53° to +0.47°
Right Hand................................. -1.03° to -0.03°
Balance (RH minus LH)................... -1.50° to +0.50°
Caster
Left Hand................................... +4.0° to +8.0°
Right Hand................................. +4.0° to +8.0°
Balance (RH minus LH)................... -1.20° to +1.20°
Toe............................................... ... 0.08° to 0.42°

Rear Suspension
Camber
Left Hand................................... -1.20° to -0.10°
Right Hand.................................. -1.20° to -0.10°
Balance (RH minus LH)................... -1.00° to +1.00°
Toe
Left Hand.................................... +0.08° to +0.25°
Right Hand................................... +0.08° to +0.25°
Total Toe.................................... +0.17° to +0.50°
Thrust Angle................................ -0.08° to +0.08°

 

The problem I have had with two cars and over 50k miles is that the front toe never seems to get set so that there is not inside wear on the front tires. One of those cars has a completely rebuilt front end suspension at a JAGUAR dealer. I think it was Brutal that expressed that the alignment tech should apply pressure to spread the toe while setting it to the specs.

Apparently these cars have an engineered in propensity to toe in.

 

That would be toe-out, that is why Brutal was recommending the use of a spreader
bar or equivalent.

@Eric,

Toe is always expressed as positive.

On both front and rear, I try for as close to zero as possible without moving into
negative territory. Doing this in the rear seems to make the car much more stable
at highway speeds in bad weather.

I also try for close to zero on camber, but don't bother correcting at the rear if
in range because it involves shim work.

I like caster to be at the high end of the range, but it is secondary to toe and camber.

 

Thanks both of you, this is what I was looking for.

I am still on the old tires from the PO, and the right front is indeed wearing dramatically on the inside.
Hope a well done alignment, following your remarks, will reduce this on the new tires to be fitted.

 

Now I could use some practical advise if possible.

Following above, I searched the place who can do this.
Seems plenty of fancy machines on this Island, but a spreader bar is something no one heard about so far.
Seems I will need to do it without that one.

Can I assume that we better try to get the toe-in set to the upper limit (0.42°), or is this wrong thinking?

Thanks for any advise,
Eric

 

Brutal doesn't use a spreader bar. He pushes out the fronts of the tires
using his arms while under the car.

You would push out, set/check toe, push out again, check toe.

On an alignment machine this is not too onerous because it is
just a matter of looking at the screen while this is going on.

Make sure they settle the suspension once it is on the rack before
checking.

 

Thanks Plums, all clear!

Once my new wheels are installed, I will give those Taiwanese a show of pushing out wheels like they will never forget .

Eric

 

Damn ya'll have great memories. Look at tire wear patterns and then the cars BEFORE settings to know where it needs to go. If the before settings as an example are in the green but the tires show inside tire wear then IT DOESNT LIKE THE BEFORE SETTING REGARDLESS OF WHERE IT IS. I have even toed cars into the red to get correct tire wear. Almost every alignment I do involves to in more than center EVERY ONE. Its not just Jags but ALL vehicles should have this done regardless. And yes I just push out with even pressure with my arms. Mercedes alignments this IS THE RECOMMENDED proceedure. And I feel is a great idea for all. Cars with a rack or steering in front of the tires I found exhibit LESS toe out deflection than ones behind but when youre dealing with premature tire wear and expense it is something that just pays for itself. As a last note in 18 years of working on Jaguars at the dealer I have had exactly THREE cars I didn't have to touch with a wrench, THREE. And I have had plenty all in the green that others would just say its good and ship it. That also says alot for the need of alignments.

 

Thanks a lot Brutal.

The car still got the Michelin 225/60R16 tires from the previous owner.
Both fronts are worn on the extreme inside, with the threads visible.
The outer side of both still have plenty of thread left.

In your experience, is this more a toe-, or camber issue?

Will move over to 8J-245/45R18 and 9J-275/40R18 this week, will run a 'before' check as a base, as I prefer my learning curve to be limited to one set of tires .

 

more toe in needed, camber does not have that much wear effect till about 2* +/-

 

Got the alignment done, it was pretty much all red.
Spread the fronts while setting toe, now hoping for the best.
Will do bushing job if I have time, then see how it is going.
Thanks for the advise, much appreciated.

@Brutal:
Same set-up as you had, perfect fit, even on the fenders without rolling or cutting.
Only had to temporary remove the bump-stops due to interference, got to work that out next.