Guys,

I am having an issue with the door and was hoping that
someone had experience with this issue. When I open or
close the door, at the midpoint of the range of motion,
there is a very loud crack that emanates from within the
door. It almost seems like it occurs at the point where the
door is supposed to stay open on its own.

I have no experience taking the doors apart on my 2002 XJR
but have taken them apart on the 97 X300 and countless 88
XJ40's. These cars had different issues to fix and I have
never experienced this loud crack before. It sounds like a
gun is going off at times in areas with a good echo!!

Anyways, has anyone seen this before? If so, what is the
best way to fix it? I want to make sure that I can repair
this before something even more troubling happens to my door!

Thanks in advance for any help!

Corey

 

cschaul - I just went through a similar situation with my XKR, which probably has the same door hinge configuration. You have a lower and upper hinge and a check arm between the two. There are two small nuts securing the check arm to the door (somewhat recessed). Check the tightness of these two small nuts. Mine sounded like metal popping against metal, after tightening - no problem.

 

Agreed, and if left alone, it will eventually break away and you will have a hole in the door. I repaired mine with some large fender washers, and now it's quiet and tight.

 

I also had a similar problem and found that my door stay had broken through the inner skin. I was able to correct the problem with washers placed under the fastners.

 

It seems like I am going to have to take the door apart tomorrow and try to fix this thing. Did anyone actually accomplish fixing it without welding in a new piece? I am hoping that mine has deteriorated shy of total failure! I am thinking that I do not want to go through the process of finding a place to weld it.

Thanks!

 

Mine was a complete failure, but I was able to use two fender washers to make the repair, no welding necessary. If your door stop has not pulled all the way through yet, you should be able to remove one nut at a time, add a washer, and tighten back up. You wouldn't even need to remove the inside door panel. If it has pulled through, then the panel would need removing, but even then, likely only washers would be needed.

 

Have a look at this thread, it may help.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=36075

 

Guys,

Thanks for the links to the other threads. They are very clear and I am grateful to have this great resource! I will be taking the door apart after work this week and will update the thread when I get it completed.

Thanks,

Corey

 

Well the washer fix worked! Thank god for this forum! Did you guys have issues losing the nuts in the door crevices/spaces? I lost two nuts plus a socket into the dark abyss and was able to recover the nuts but I fear the socket is lost forever. It seems like a pretty poor design of not only the strap but the space in the door where things can fall into and never be recovered. Regardless, I am just thankful to not sound like I am shooting a gun everytime I open the door!

 

I'm glad it worked out. I'd still be gentle with the door, though. I noticed that the sheetmetal on the chassis also flexes quite a bit too. I guess the whole area should have been beefed up.

 

As to retrieving the lost socket, get a magnet on a telescoping extension and you should be able to retrieve it. Mechanics use these all the time as they have this happen to them all the time.

 

Update- remember that cracked assembly? And how I thought it'd be ok?
Wrong.
It snapped this week. I robbed the one from the left rear door to keep the drivers door working ok until I get another one. Also, one of the nuts was loose, so use Loctite, or like me, put Nylock nuts in there.

 

There is a pin at the nose of the checkstrap that goes through the A pillar bracket.

The pin seems to have a screwdriver slot.

But ... it does not seem to want to turn.

Is it in fact normal thread? Reverse thread? Press fit?

JTIS is completely silent on removing the bracket from the strap.

BTW, the bag says "Made in Germany". Well, standards must have really taken a nosedive. Especially for what these things cost.

 

Unless the strap is damaged, you don't have to remove the pin to replace the roller piece.

 

Removing the pin is not a problem.

Ignore the fact that it has a screwdriver slot. The shaft is not threaded or splined.

It presses out with light pressure using a c-clamp and small socket to make a recess for the head.

Once the threaded end is flush with the face of the bracket, pull on the head at the other end and the pin will come out the rest of the way.

With the arm removed, a bolt and nut with a stack of reinforcing washers is a dandy way to pull the metal back into alignment. Just put a couple of washers on each side of the sheetmetal and tighten the bolt to flatten the sheetmetal that has been deformed.