In my 2002 XJ8, the driver's side electric door lock actuator went out - stuck in the locked position. I could not figure out how to get the door open. After removing the panel from the inside with the door closed (no fun) I was able to get it open and get the locking mechanism out. The design of this mechanism gives priority to the electric actuator. The interior door handle will not mechanically override it. The doors are automatically locked by the actuator when the car is in drive with the doors closed. If it were to get stuck this way in an emergency, there is no way to open the door from the inside.

Everyone will have their own opinion on this, but it is unacceptable to me. I would like to retain the electric locking feature without the death trap consequences of the current design. Has anybody already done this?

 

My 03 driver's door actuator is faulty. My door handle still works just fine to get out of, even when locked. I can also reach over and pull the door lock up manually, which unlocks my door, and triggers the rest to unlock by the action. Perhaps mine is a strange case. That isn't to say that there isn't a possibility that the actuator could fail in a way that the lock is held down full-time, even when trying to manually pull it up. I wouldn't necessarily call that a guaranteed failure scenario though. There are plenty of cars with similar or worse lock designs, and any and all would be prone to a crazy issue that could do that.

 

Mine's erratic, some times when I press the lock button on the center console it will only unlock one of the rear doors.

 

The driver inside handle should open the door -- it should override the lock.

Pulling on the handle should unlock the doors. If someone is trying to open any door from the outside that door lock will not work.

I'm wondering if there is some legacy locking technology causing a problem. My X300 had what was called "deadlocking" -- there was also a way to lock all the doors and disable the door handles for what I remember was a cycle. I think my first X308 VDP had it as well. It makes for some strange operation. The remote locked twice would cause the locks to do stage things as well

Car jacking was a big thing back in the 90's ... my memory was hitting the center console button twice disable the auto unlock .. you can't use the outside handles.

The reset was to manually lock the driver door while open -- it will reject .. then close door and use remount to lock and unlock.

 

The actuator holds the door locked and the inside and outside latches pull on spring loaded levers that give when they are operated. The actuator has 100% priority over the manual controls. I am modifying the mechanism now to give the inside handle priority. I can only hope it doesn't confuse the computer with it's inputs coming from the lock mechanism microswitches. We'll see...

 

 

I was not clear above. If someone is trying to open the door from outside and pulls on the handle -- that door will not unlock. should have worded it using outside door handle/lever not lock.

The inside lever has to overcome any locked door ..

 

I personally do not mind the electric locks, but I do wish that in time of need as mentioned that the door lock button could be to unlock the door in case of failure of the electrics or actuator. I have had a couple of times that the driver door would not unlock, even with the center console switch or key FOB, and pulling up on the button would not over ride and unlock the door. Have not had it happen recently, but am going to pull the panel and check/clean the connections and, check the cable

 

inside cable is stretched,i had issues like that.replaced with aftermarket [ebay] it was trash,so I used a passenger side cable [used],it lasted a few months till it stretched.i ended up prying back the cable at the handle end out of its cradle [approx.] 1/8 inch.then sprayed a little wd40 on braided CABLE ONLY,then used 5 min. epoxy to set plastic outer sleeve to cradle.2 years now and still works

 

I am having a problem getting locked in my 2003 VDP. The door locks work fine with the remote, they lock fine when I put the car in Drive but when I park they do not unlock, the dash button won't unlock them and when you yank up on the lock it fights you and locks again. This only seems to happen when it's cold in the Summer I never have this issue. I think your right about it being a design flaw in an emergency it could be life threatening. I have no clue why this happens now before I put the car in park I hit the door lock switch and it seems to work. I'll open the door just a shade and then put the car in park so I can get out!.

 

The door lock relies a lot on the freeness of some levers and spring balance. When the lubrication iscold and stiff, the do not work in cold weather, or at all. I've removed the whole luck and spray cleaned and washed the old lube from pivots and relived and all has been good.
i tried to spray lube lock in the door but you cannot, it has to come out.

 

I was wondering how you did that, the thing with the door cable. I think I would like to do it, I don't quite fully understand. If possible could you please explain it again in detail. I would be deeply grateful and thankful.

 

I thought I replied to this after I fixed my issue. Things get busy around here fast and I guess I never got around to it. My issue was a bad cable from the inside door latch to the lock. The cable frayed at the door lock and jammed up the whole mechanism the lock itself was fine. I have to say getting the dam lock out so I could get the cable end out was a nightmare and getting the cable seated right was almost as bad. There is no room you can not see it, the lock mechanism has to be at a perfect angle to get it past the reinforcements/framing in the door. I was using mirrors flex shaft lights etc. It took me quite a long time but it works perfectly. I do believe it is a design flaw in the cable where it attaches to the lock. It wears out and the metal cable rubs against the metal of the lock and eventually the strands start breaking and the cable fails. Aside from the amount of work the cable was dirt cheap. I got the cable (GNC1100/1FCCBL APA/URO) from Parts Geek $26.00 and change. I do not know what a dealer or shop would charge but with the amount of labor i doubt it would be a cheap fix if you didn't do it yourself.