XJR bucked on me twice and went to restricted mode.
2000 XJR, 65k miles. Car is new to me, had it for 1 week.
Here is what happened.....Trans in sport mode, under moderate acceleration from about 55 mph.
It bucked on me fairly hard twice, I backed way out of the throttle.
Performance restricted mode on message center, check engine light cameon.
Message went away within 10 seconds and ran normally instantly.
Drove it another 20 miles home and never did it again.
it runs normally now, but check engine light is still on.
60K service was done on it 1 year ago by dealer.
It drove purrrfectly last week for 130 miles when I drove it home after I bought it.
Any ideas? Also is there a scan tool that I can buy/afford that could be usefull?
Thanks
Ted
Here is what happened.....Trans in sport mode, under moderate acceleration from about 55 mph.
It bucked on me fairly hard twice, I backed way out of the throttle.
Performance restricted mode on message center, check engine light cameon.
Message went away within 10 seconds and ran normally instantly.
Drove it another 20 miles home and never did it again.
it runs normally now, but check engine light is still on.
60K service was done on it 1 year ago by dealer.
It drove purrrfectly last week for 130 miles when I drove it home after I bought it.
Any ideas? Also is there a scan tool that I can buy/afford that could be usefull?
Thanks
Ted
yes, but not all readers can give full description or read abs or SRS systems
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Us mere mortals have to settle on an AutoEnginuity scanner. you'll have to pay for the scanner itself as well as the Jaguar bundle. It will cost you around $350.00 or $400.00 total. I have one and use it for my Ford Diesel and my Jag XJ8. If you get the Jag bundle it will read everything frp, Powertrain to SRS and ABS. Without it you're at the mercy of others.
The bucking thing could also be just bad gas? If car was onlybought last week, could be sucking through some old gas.
Also, replace fuel pump relays. Seen them get sticky.
Also, replace fuel pump relays. Seen them get sticky.
Would that also explain the slight stumbling at aorund 3000 rpms......but clears out
when I really get on the throttle hard?
when I really get on the throttle hard?
I got a cheap OBD II for about $50 on ebay, and it's good enough to read and clear codes. it also gives some live data as well. For you purposes, you probably don't need to spend more than this. There's a bunch of cheapos on ebay that may suffice.
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