I have 2000 XJR with 126K on it and am contemplating swapping a 5.0 Ford Coyote and auto trans into the car. The Jag has had consistent electrical issues with non=starting and stalling issues. Six-plus visits to the Jag mechanic has not fixed the issues.
What challenges might I face with such a swap? The engine, dimensionally, should fit, but what else should I be concerned with?

Thanks for your input and advice.

GaryJ.

 

None of the modules will interface with the engine/trans. A FS1 swap is possible. Maybe you should consider a mechanic swap.

 

This problem has persisted over three mechanics in two different states including two dealer facilities. They all seem to be stymied. Short of replacing the wiring harness completely, I'm at an impasse. Such a shame.......a beautiful car that runs like the bulls at Pamplona....... when it runs. I'll continue the quest with my current mechanic who seems as committed to finding the problem as I am......but of course, he's getting paid. but at least he's motivated.

 

Not that any swap is "easy" but in my opinion Jaguar Specialties offers the "easiest" when it comes to LSx swaps into XJ8/Rs (X308) and XK8/Rs (X100). I'm using this kit and swapping in an LS1/4L80E in to my XK8 coupe (link below).

Jaguar Specialties

 

 

Sorry about your issues. If you're unable to solve/sort out/keep on top of issues on what is a good dependable car these cars, albeit old, such that you need to go to a mechanic- I'd ask yourself how confident you are fitting a whole new powertrain into this car?

Did you intend to do the work yourself or pay someone?

 

I know that an engine swap would be expensive and time consuming. I've researched the crate motor and trans and attendant electronic lash-ups and it would be a costly and daunting task. My mechanic would help, but I would end up doing most of the heavy lifting myself with the help of my wife (!!!) and son. They have both been encouraging and my son is a mechanical engineer. Still, I love the car as does the wife and I hate to get rid of it for something that a dedicated owner/mechanic might resolve in a day of diagnosis and troubleshooting.

I've just returned from the mechanic, once again, and having the positive battery cable replaced.

I had heard that since the cable is wrapped in a sheath, that it may break or corrode within the sheath and not be evident to the naked eye.

I experienced the non-start condition when I arrived at the mechanic and by wiggling the cable after having checked the battery voltage and finding it normal, the car started.

The OEM cable was $112. It's woven stainless steel like the naked negative ground cable. I can't figure out why this cable is not copper and likewise, wrapped for protection. We'll see if that is the remedy, over time.

Thanks for the encouragement.

Gary J.