Before I suck it up and pull the tank, I'd like to throw my headscratching problem out here...

Couple months ago I pulled my car from storage, fresh battery fitted fuel good. First attempt at turning over a click so I chased the usual earths at the false bulkhead/fuseboxes link lead and engine earth, on the last one the engine earth I had a crumbling shakeproof washer so swapped it and it fired up first turn of the key.

Today I try it and it just turns over, so I've methodically worked through the following...
Checked fuel pressure at rail = none
checked fuel pump priming on ignition = nothing
checked fuel pump relays = good
checked both fuel pump fuses, Yellow 20A = good
checked supply to relays, good
checked supply to fuses = good
checked continuity at fuel tank loom connection = good
checked inertia switched = wasn't activated
checked the engine earth again = good
removed fuel pump relay 1 (so the ecu would switch to pump 2) nothing
removed fuel pump relay 2 (so the ecu would switch to pump 1) nothing

All of this points towards both fuel pumps or link lead failure....before I go ahead and yank the tank is there anything else I might try to confirm the pumps are dead? I was thinking about using a wire from the battery to one of the fuel pump fuses to see if I could energize this way - has anyone done this? Are there any earths I may have missed connected to the pumps?

 

You can 'jump' the relay connection with a short wire (male spade connectors at the ends).

Jump 30/87 or pins 3 & 5 (however they are marked) to energize the pumps DIRECTLY.

I carry the 'relay-substitution' wire in all my cars 'just in case'.

bob

 

Thanks Bob, it's 23:30 here and yet I want to go and do that, with a petzl on but one of the neighbors may think I'm stealing it!

 

When I read about the fuel pumps issue, I did the same along with a diagram of the relays. Made the wire to test relays, decided to keep it in the glove box. Don't trust the car itself to trip one fuel pump if the other's dead.

 

Well closure on this, I heard the realgauge alarm on cranking yesterday and wondered why, a fault on the engine temp sensor? so flooded the connector this morning (the car's been left standing) and inserted it a few times, checked engine temp on the OBD then turned it over, fired first time, so no tank pulling for me - Deep Joy

 

Needs to be a list in the owner's manual of quick checks when it won't start:inertia switch, switch keys, temp sensor (especially in the winter).

 

Are you saying that if the coolant temperature sensor has a short/open the fuel pumps are not supplied power?

 

In this case, on my car yes, before I cleaned it I had a quick look at the wiring diagram and the ECU is looking for a signal on crank.
The other thing I found odd was the quick signal shut off to the pumps, not a 2 second prime.

 

where is the engine temp sensor connector located?

 

 

Thanks M