Feels good to have my once lengthy X308 "TDL" down to cosmetic tasks now, but I'm the type of guy that if I don't write/record my thoughts/plans they sometimes are lost forever lol.

In no particular order,

Steering wheel upgrade to the half wood unit, due to be done this week
Brake calipers either painted or covered
Upgrading head & fog lights to the brightest halogen available & cleaning inside the housing
Deep cleansing,conditioning & dye refurbishing of the seats
Wood panels restored
Full paint job, it currently looks good but me knowing where I had previous paint work makes it stand out in my mind's eye. So even if no one else notices, it has to go lol.

 

A great thread, gives us all a reference list of what needs to be done, what should be done, and what we would like to be done, and impetuous/encouragement to actually do it.

As 2018 was my first year of ownership I have pretty much addressed all the major "repairs" that were needed, and most if not all of the minor quirks and quibbles.

Done in 2018.................
1) The center driveline carrier bearing, flex couplings and rear transmission mount were first on the list.
2) Timing chains/tensioners came next, complete with new waterpump, thermostat, crank timing seal, crank bolt, spark plugs, all new gaskets, anti-freeze, oil and filter.
3) The tires had plenty of tread but were over 6 years old, and so I replaced them all with Pirelli P7s. I am very happy with them,
4) A 4-wheel alignment was done, the only adjustment necessary was to the toe-in to prevent some wander issues.
5) The brake rotors were all in excellent shape, but I replaced all the brake pads with Akebono ceramics.
6) I kept getting an error code which turned out to be a faulty passenger (right) side knock sensor
7) The transmission was performing fine, but I had a fluid flush done and the Transgo pressure regulator valve upgrade installed.
8) Next were the motor mounts, they were cracked with age and well ready for replacement.
9) Because of the condition of the motor mounts i also replaced the front subframe "V" mount bushings.
10) I then looked to the suspension, I replaced the front upper shock mounts, rear upper spring donuts, as well as all four new Bilstein shocks.
11) I replaced the sway bay bushings and the steering rack support bushings. I'm not sure they needed to be replaced but they were cheap and easy to do.
12) I began to get the traction control/ABS error code. I removed and cleaned all of the wheel sensors, and that cured it.
13) As preventative measures I replaced the radiator expansion tank cap, as well as the rear gasoline cap.
14) During this winter weather the car sat for periods, and the battery showed signs of age, so I replaced it with a 900cca MAXX H-8.
15) As we entered 2019 I touched up some minor wear signs on the driver's seat bolster. Pleased with the results and very easy to do.

Things planned for 2019..................
1) It's really low on any list, but I may get a bug up my a** one day and attempt to install new trunk struts, mine are okay, but the trunk lid does fall rather rapidly if you drop it from fully open, so I'm assuming the struts should be replaced.
2) The illumination of the interior temperature could be better, maybe I will replaced the bulbs back there.
3) Next oil change I may convert from Dino 10/40 to to Synthetic 10/40
4) Oh, and I have a replacement metal thermostat housing tower, and I should get around to installing that some time.

That's it right now, and I hope it stays that way and that 2019 is a trouble-free year.
I really like this car, it gives me so much enjoyment and pleasure to look at and drive.

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Fit new PAS pump
2.3 S/C drive ratio
Upgraded intercooler radiator
New upgraded high capacity electric pump (Pierburg "AMG"- if it fits)-Better than the Bosch "010" type
200 cell catalysts
opened out throttle body
Machined throt flange duct into S/C
Bonnet Louvres
Rear Boot Lip
Respray and blend of bonnet
Fit new colour scheme Instrument cluster gauges
Retrim XJR-100 steering wheel with alcantara upper and lower trim and re do the stitching
New Rear wheel bearings
New rear axle U-Joints

 

CK, in spite of some horrible stories, those trunk struts are fairly easy to replace, and new ones give such a better impression if you close the trunk.

And on the thermostat, don't make the same mistake I did.
I had my new one packed in a box for a year, then got stuck on a mountain road when only the digital read-out of Torque saved my ***.
It is also not so difficult to do, not worth the risk for sure!

 

My present TO DO list (and yes, you're gonne hate me, and the Gods might punish me as well ...):

1)

 

Maybe I'll order a pair, then once they arrive I won't be able to resist trying to install them.

Assume you mean metal thermostat tower, Yes, does seem silly to have the item sitting on the shelf. I'll make it a priority!

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.
Trunk struts ordered, (GNA3800AB) from Welsh Enterprises, $32.98 a pair, free shipping, no sales tax. (that's at least $230.00 less than OEM)
.

 

Come to think of it my trunk does come down rather forcefully hmm, lol.

 

Rockauto llists them from $6 and up / pc ...

 

1) Replace the driver's rear hub carrier assembly with the RIGHT part this time
2) Replace the front (and eventually rear) shocks with proper Bilsteins instead of the KYB junk that is on it
3) Adjust the brake pedal switch since I didn't do so properly when I installed it
4) Replace rear passenger side wheel sensor (I have it, just haven't done it yet)

That's it for the immediate future as they should be relatively quick and painless after all the rest, and slightly important to driveability. If I were to keep driving it past April, I'd need to trace out where the Evap code is coming from, which could be anywhere at this point, and I'd prefer to put the time and money into the next vehicle but we'll see. We'll call that a Conditional #5

 

Well gosh darn it! They have them for $9.06 each, plus shipping for $25.11 total.

Both Welshes and Rock Auto are URO manufacturer, so identical items.

I could'a bought a couple gallons of gas with that $8.00 !

 

I keep saying, for general parts, just have a look at Rockauto first, totally worth comparing.
They might have some issues on return (never had any personally though), but no one can beat their pricing.
Just be sure to make the right choice out of the alternative makers they offer.

 

-solve inconsistent pulling left
-solve 30mph/57mph howl
-design and 3d print a better cupholder
-go on a bunch of long drives that I've been putting off for way too long
-address interior squeaks and rattles
-get a spare key cut/programmed
-a new windshield would be nice
-paint repairs also are another long-term wishlist item, if I get the important things done

 

That would be something in great demand if successful!

 

Let's remove wheel & add replace center defroster vent as I was replacing the driver's side vent the middle vent snapped @ the connecting point , how fitting ehh lol. Found one that looks good on e-Bay.

Updated

Defroster center vent replaced
Brake calipers covered (ordered MGP covers today)
Upgrading head & fog lights to the brightest halogen available & cleaning inside the housing
Deep cleansing,conditioning & dye refurbishing of the seats
Wood panels restored
Full paint job

 

Trunk struts arrived, I'll install them tomorrow.............and if they make a huge difference I'll let you know KC if it's worth you doing the same.

 

They will, I assure you .

One little trick to prevent a struggle is to set up your correct tool / hand position on the new cylinders.
I remember the left side is tight to remove the old one, but you basically just have to pry a small screw driver under the steel spring clip.
The new one doesn't need that, you can just push them on, do the low ones first, then click them on the lid.
I did both in less than 10 min, single person job, just need a broom to keep the lid open.

 

You are right Eric, a lot easier than I thought they would be. Once the back panel is removed you can see how much more accessible the rear strut attachments are.


They make a HUGE difference!


That's for sure, the trunk lid now opens and closes as it should, instead of closing uncontrollably if you let go of it too soon!



FOR THOSE THINKING OF DOING THIS, FIRST THING IS TO REMOVE THE SPARE TIRE COVER AND BATTERY COVER,
THEN REMOVE BOTH TRUNK SIDE PANELS AND BACK PANEL.SIMPLE ENOUGH, THE SIDE PANELS JUST PULL OUT AND
THE BACK PANEL IS JUST HELD BY TWO PRESS STUDS. THEN REPLACE THE SPARE TIRE COVER AND BATTERY COVER
SO YOU HAVE SOMETHING TO KNEEL ON.


YOU WILL NEED SOMETHING TO PROP THE TRUNK ONCE EVEN ONE OF THE STRUTS ARE DISCONNECTED.


THE FRONT OF THE STRUTS ARE EASILY ACCESSIBLE AND JUST NEEDS A SMALL SCREWDRIVER BLADE INSERTED INTO
THE SPRING CLIP HOLDING THEM ON AND WILL PULL AWAY FROM THE RETAINING BALL.


THE REAR OF THE STRUT IS MORE DIFFICULT TO REACH< BUT NOT THAT DIFFICULT, EVEN NORMAL SIZED
HANDS/ARMS CAN EASILY REACH ACROSS THE TOP OF THE FUEL TANK. A THIN SCREWDRIVER WITH A
LONG BLADE IS USEFUL TO RELEASE THE TENSION ON THE STRUT CLIP AND IT WILL POP OFF.
THE LEFT/DRIVER SIDE IS EASIER THAN THE RIGHT/PASSENGER SIDE, PROBABLY SIMPLY BECAUSE YOU USE
YOUR RIGHT HAND..




WITH THE SIDE PANELING REMOVED I WAS INTERESTED TO SEE A QA STICKER. MY CAR (ENGINE NUMBER) HAS
A BUILD DATE OF FEB 2001, AND THE INSPECTION STICKER REINFORCES THIS WITH FEBRUARY 1st and 7th MARKS (The Brits write day/month/year)


Thank you to Eric for the encouragement, and to some earlier forum posts which reinforce how easy this task really is. I'm on a roll and have also ordered some hood struts (from Rock Auto)

And to KC, better get some struts ordered!


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My wife was trying to balance the trunk lid and a box going into the trunk.
Lid came down and caught her on the bridge of her nose.
She was not pleased.
Now its on the top of my list for January 21, 2019.

 

Yeah, they are like disposables, replace every couple of years .... The struts I mean