Hey everyone,
I know I have asked this question before but can anyone point me in the right direction. My central locking, fuel filler flap and boot release do not work.
I have tried replacing the module on the left hand side of the car under the knee panel. Changed actuators both front doors, checked power is getting to the door unlock button on the central console panel. Power is getting there but when this button is pressed the only noise that is omitted is the clicking of the power windows.
Apart from that clicking there is no other noise emitted when trying the door locks with the key or with the windows down and lifting the door knob.
The car did have a car alarm fitted when I bought the car, central locking did not work then either. It was suggested to me that the alarm be removed as this can interfere with the electrics. I had this done professionally, but still no central locking etc.

Please help.......thank you

 

not sure, but I would also like to know the answer.
Slightly different scenario..... everything was working until yesterday, now when I turn the key to lock all I get is the click from behind the left knee panel,the driver's door will lock and roll up the window, the boot will lock and the fuel cap also... but the other three doors do nothing and then when I turn the key the other way to open it..... it does not unlock the boot lock or the filler cap.

This all seems to have happened after getting a flat battery...... not sure if all that stuff need to be reset.

 

Torque59

Your problems sound like there more in depth that red_101au

I'll address Red's first, since it's simple and may help troubleshoot Torque's

Red's problem is fairly common and requires the doors to be "synced" with each other. You can search the forum archives for a method, but a summary explanation is to put all of the doors in the same position with the battery disconnected. Open all the doors and manually work the plungers 2-3 times, leaving all door locks in the same position (unlocked would be good), including the boot lock and fuel filler lid. Then reconnect the battery, sometimes the method is a little fickle, but should work out with some patience.

Torque, not knowing a great amount of detail about your vehicle, was the security component a) an original Jaguar security system and b) removed by a Jaguar technician? Also, do you have a remote with your vehicle, such as a single button remote which would lock and raise the windows when pressed? MY 89 has this feature, not sure about yours.

I think you may have dive deep into this. Do you have a Haynes manual for your vehicle? It sounds like there is a common among all locks. If you send me a PM with your email, I'll send you a scanned copy of the Haynes electrical diagrams for the locking and window systems. Keep in mind, Haynes is commonly refereed to as the "Book of Lies". For instance, you mentioned the central lock button on the counsel, Haynes doesn't show it on the schematic.... , just the same it should be more helpful than not having something to troubleshoot with .

The both front handles have a switch associated with the lock barrel which is actually sending the signal to the lock control unit to move the actuators for all locks. Have you removed the door handles and examined the switch and leads for the switch? I know it's a PIA, but you may need to do so.

Lastly, a) clean every single ground and connector you can access. These vehicles can be fickle when there are dirty grounds and b) always closely examine solder joints on any circuit board you remove. The A pillar fuse boxes have been reported as having numerous cold/poor solder connections. And almost everything on the vehicle passes through a fuse box at some point.

 

Hi Rob, thanks for the advice....... tried out the method of disconnecting the battery and with all doors and boot and filler lid open.... pushed the locks up and down several times in succession... then reconnected tha battery but still didn't work.
Tried it all again with the battery connected and still didn't work....
I guess out of frustration while sitting in the drivers seat.... I reached across and plunged both the front door locks up and down a couple of times and they synced.....
A little out of the ordinary but they all work again with the exception of the fuel filler lid. but it would not release while pushing on it before..... as long as I have had it the only way to open the filler was from the emergency release in the boot..... I am guessing the release solenoid may not be working....
Any way, the way I got the central locking to sync again may be of use to some others a swell. This may also be the answer to Torque59's problem.... Mine is an 88 XJ40 too

Thanks again for your input

 

Red,

I do believe I used the word "fickle" in regard to the system )

Glad you got it straightened out.... now for the fuel filler latch box

I have also had the joy of removing this component as well. I'll save you the long story and advise at this point to get out the WD40 or some alternative with a directional extension and dose the pin sticking out. If your fortunate, it will be just an issue of built up grime on the pin within the housing. Perhaps even use PB Blaster, it's an aerosol solvent for loosening up bolts/nuts. Let the solvent sit for a while so it seeps down into the chamber, then use a flat blade screwdriver and see it you can't loosen the pin. The solenoid has it's own drainage port, so now worries on the solvent accumulating.

Torque,

Sorry about the hijack of your thread

 

fickle??? you got that right.... seems no two problems are exactly the same hehehe
I was going to ask about removing the filler lid solenoid, but thought I would at least try and tackle it myself..... figuring I would probably have to remove the filler pipe to get to it..... But I might just try the solvent first as when I look into the locking mechanism, it does look a little gunked up and a surface corrosion is present.
The pin seems to retract easily and with very little pressure on the emergency release, it just wont open from outside the boot...... I am not sure if it is like an electrical contact at the bottom that senses the pin when pressed down or if it is just a pressure release to open it...... either way I will keep you posted
thanks again

 

Red,

First, an apology to Torque for highjacking the thread. The info may be helpful to you as well.

The fuel filler latch box assembly is, in short, a PIA. The solenoid is encased within the assembly, further the circuit board is itself is encased in an epoxy resin material that I found impossible to remove without damaging the board components. You would really need expert level equipment to remove the resin. Perhaps someone reading has a suggestion on removing the resin.

Considering your statement that the pin does move freely, than I would agree the pressure plate/circuit at the bottom is probably shot. One thing you could do before removing the entire assembly is to use a screwdriver and apply pressure to the plate and see if it causes any effect on the pin, in my case it did nothing. If it does retract, then simply adjust the plunger under the lid.

What I did was remove the pin since I had the assembly out, put it back together, re-installed and opted to use magnets secured to the assembly that had enough power to hold the fuel lid down. I have to use an item from my key chain to pry the lid from the magnets, but it beats the heck out of opening the boot every time.

Look at this link:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


I do have a brand new, virgin, fuel filler latch box on hand. Someday, I will install it, someday will be the day I'm forced to remove the fuel tank again for some reason.

In regard to removing the assembly. Some have managed to remove the gaiter over the fuel filler neck (item 5 in the following link):

Fuel Filler Cap and Hoses - Parts For XJ6 (2.9, 3.2, 3.6, 4.0) from (V)500001 to (V)667828 | Jaguar Classic Parts UK

But I would caution you this method may very well damage the gaiter, as in tear it, then you have problems. Torn gaiter ... boot becomes a swimming pool.

I chose to remove the tank straps to allow for movement of the tank, it provided just enough clearance to get the assembly off of the tank neck and maneuver the assembly out of the boot. (Mind you, the tank doesn't move much, it is still connected to the under tank supply/return lines.) There are four bolts holding the fuel filler latch box assembly in place.

Another precautionary item would be to consider how you are going to seal the assembly to body when you reinstall. There is a rubber seal present when you separate assembly from body, but it's condition will determine course of action in re-sealing. If you consider the slope of the rear wing and placement of the filler opening, you can well imagine water freely filling the gaiter area, then flowing though a poorly sealed assembly/body area and filling the boot with water. Think this out before you disassemble.

 

I too apologize for the highjacking.
Ok... went out and checked the filler lid locking mechanism..... after cleaning it out a bit with some WD40... I could see clearly there is like a nylon plate at the bottom of the lock...... If I understand you right, this is a pressure plate that when pushing down on the lid the locking pin makes contact with and depresses.... is this right?
if so, then this must be the problem, when I push down on it with a screwdriver, there is no up and down movement at all, I can get a little sideways movement if I place the tip of the screwdriver in the edge and wriggle it.... so this would suggest the pressure plate is seized. or the locking pin is not reaching the bottom, which I ruled out by pressing with the screwdriver.
I have given it a few good dowsings of of WD40 and left it to drain away and then filled it again several times, but there still appears to be no movement up/down.
I really do not want to have to remove the tank etc to get to the sender, so for now I will just continue to use the release in the boot. if in the future I have to remove the tank for some reason, I will work on or replace the lid release then lol.
it's not really that much of a problem hitting the release in the boot, not enough to pull the tank out yet.

 

Red,

We're pretty close on concept, but the plate you see sits above two contact points, which in turn go to the circuit board, then power is applied to the barrel housing, wherein the locking pin sits. The barrel is actually a magnet, when power applied it pulls the pin back to release the lid. Behind the pin base is a spring, when power is dropped, the spring pushes the pin back into position.

I'm not sure if you looked at those pictures I posted a while back (link in yesterdays post), but in photo #6 you can see the pad which is visible to you when you peer down the lid plunger housing. Except you only see a small, round portion of it, again look at the pics. Sorry about the poor quality of the photos, too much java that day.

 

Hi again.... yes I did look at the pics and did notice the plate you are talking about, I did not however at that time realize what I was actually looking at lol.
I just looked again and see it is a large square plate.

Point still remains I do not feel any up or down movement in the sensor plate when pressing with a screw driver...... but I guess any movement would be so slight I wouldn't notice it...
Other possibilities I can think of is that contacts under the plate maybe corroded and not making a circuit, or blown circuitry on the board itself stopping the actuation of the magnet to release the pin.
thanks again Rob.... I do not mean to monopolize your time.

 

Good evening,

The Fuel Filler Latch Box contain a solenoid and a control circuit.
Usually the control circuit is the wrong part.
There is new Fuel Flap Electronics.
All4JAGS | JAGUAR PARTS - JAGUAR TEILE - JAGUAR ONDERDELEN

 

Bobmark,

I can't realy tell by your website, are you selling used parts or are you manufacturing the renewed circuit boards for the fuel filler latch box assembly?

If your selling used, then what is the quantity you have on hand of the circuit board?

 

Rob Evenson,

This is not a renewed part.
New control circuit.
YouTube
xj40 typical problem