1991 XJ6 won't crank
#1
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1991 XJ6 won't crank
I'm considering buying a 1991 XJ6 with 121k miles. The problem is, it won't crank at all. The battery is brand new and the cables are 100% clean. All electrical works - lights, windows, seats, sunroof, horn, radio (needs code), etc. All fuses have been checked twice.
I have NO experience with these cars but past experience on other cars with this synptom means it needs a new starter. Someone suggested it could just be a code reset of some type on the security system.
Can you kind folks help me figure out if it's the starter or some security system issue? THANKS.
I have NO experience with these cars but past experience on other cars with this synptom means it needs a new starter. Someone suggested it could just be a code reset of some type on the security system.
Can you kind folks help me figure out if it's the starter or some security system issue? THANKS.
#2
Firstly you are talking about an XJ40, and that is not here.
One of our ever friendly mods might want to move this to the XJ40 area to maximise responses.
No codes that I know of to allow simple "cranking", UNLESS the thing has an aftermarket alarm/imobiliser fitted, then anything goes. IF that is the case remove that aftermarket thing and see what happens.
Get yourself a 1 5/16" socket (big size) and place it on the nut on the front of the crankshaft and pull it "clockwise as looking from the front" and see if the engine actually is NOT siezed.
YES the starters are prone to failure and hopefully it is that simple.
One of our ever friendly mods might want to move this to the XJ40 area to maximise responses.
No codes that I know of to allow simple "cranking", UNLESS the thing has an aftermarket alarm/imobiliser fitted, then anything goes. IF that is the case remove that aftermarket thing and see what happens.
Get yourself a 1 5/16" socket (big size) and place it on the nut on the front of the crankshaft and pull it "clockwise as looking from the front" and see if the engine actually is NOT siezed.
YES the starters are prone to failure and hopefully it is that simple.
#4
#5
I have a '91 and it has a factory immobiliser. Reset switch is behind/near the hood release. Not sure of the effect of it though, I have never tripped mine. Not sure if all the lights etc. would work if its tripped.
#6
Sometimes my 92 doesn't start, one time I got pissed and smacked the shifter and it started. Its been happening more and more now though! Is there a replacement available or is there a fix for it?
#7
Probably a new one is available, at the usual $$$$$$$.
I have cleaned a few of them over the years and always had success, takes a little trime, but works out cheaper (free).
Had the ski slope out of the X300 for stereo replacement last year, so off with this switch and contact cleaner liberally applied, dried off, refit and adjust, simple as.
I have cleaned a few of them over the years and always had success, takes a little trime, but works out cheaper (free).
Had the ski slope out of the X300 for stereo replacement last year, so off with this switch and contact cleaner liberally applied, dried off, refit and adjust, simple as.
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#9
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#11
inertia switch
Hi bondad,
As stated earlier by one of the members, check to see if your inertia switch is "tripped".
Poke your head under the dash (driver's side) in the well and you'll see it mounted on the fire wall above where your left foot usually resides just about where the carpet begins. It's easy to check, just push down on the button. If it clicks after gently pushing on it, it was tripped. Then try to start your car.
If it is NOT a tripped inertia switch, read on.
From Haynes
Here's a wiring diagram for the car (Haynes) - the diagram on the left is applicable, I believe, in your case.
Start&charge_system.pdf
Read your Haynes, the section entitled, "Starter won't crank".
The most likely suspects are (some of these have been brought up already):
1. faulty Ignition Switch
2. faulty Ignition On Relay
3. faulty Linear Gear Position Switch (determines if in "P" or "N" and sends signal to ECU)
4. Engine Management (ECU) fails to close N.O. contacts in Starter circuit after receiving "P" or "N" signal from LGPS.
5. faulty starter relay
6. faulty starter solenoid
7. faulty starter or
8. faulty wiring (and/or grounds) interconnecting these devices.
Most of these can be "tested" with a simple ground wire (or test light) and a little reasoning on your own part. Start from where you have power and work your way to the starter.
My mom's Civic just gave me a time last week. It would NOT start. You turn on the ignition switch and sometimes the dashboard would energize and sometimes it would not. In all cases, after turning on the ignition switch the dash would blank and the starter would NEVER crank.
It wasn't the battery ... it wasn't the battery cable terminals ... it was an internally broken -tive battery terminal cable. If you put juice through it, it would open up. An ohmmeter reading would not reveal the source of the problem.
I temporarily fixed it with a salvaged cable from a junk car. The cable I replaced was composed of a multitude of very fine wire - I would suggest to all, never waste your money on this type. Get one composed of strands of a decent wire size.
I'm not suggesting this is your problem, but it could be something simple in your case, too.
Good Luck.
As stated earlier by one of the members, check to see if your inertia switch is "tripped".
Poke your head under the dash (driver's side) in the well and you'll see it mounted on the fire wall above where your left foot usually resides just about where the carpet begins. It's easy to check, just push down on the button. If it clicks after gently pushing on it, it was tripped. Then try to start your car.
If it is NOT a tripped inertia switch, read on.
From Haynes
Here's a wiring diagram for the car (Haynes) - the diagram on the left is applicable, I believe, in your case.
Start&charge_system.pdf
Read your Haynes, the section entitled, "Starter won't crank".
The most likely suspects are (some of these have been brought up already):
1. faulty Ignition Switch
2. faulty Ignition On Relay
3. faulty Linear Gear Position Switch (determines if in "P" or "N" and sends signal to ECU)
4. Engine Management (ECU) fails to close N.O. contacts in Starter circuit after receiving "P" or "N" signal from LGPS.
5. faulty starter relay
6. faulty starter solenoid
7. faulty starter or
8. faulty wiring (and/or grounds) interconnecting these devices.
Most of these can be "tested" with a simple ground wire (or test light) and a little reasoning on your own part. Start from where you have power and work your way to the starter.
My mom's Civic just gave me a time last week. It would NOT start. You turn on the ignition switch and sometimes the dashboard would energize and sometimes it would not. In all cases, after turning on the ignition switch the dash would blank and the starter would NEVER crank.
It wasn't the battery ... it wasn't the battery cable terminals ... it was an internally broken -tive battery terminal cable. If you put juice through it, it would open up. An ohmmeter reading would not reveal the source of the problem.
I temporarily fixed it with a salvaged cable from a junk car. The cable I replaced was composed of a multitude of very fine wire - I would suggest to all, never waste your money on this type. Get one composed of strands of a decent wire size.
I'm not suggesting this is your problem, but it could be something simple in your case, too.
Good Luck.
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