1992 XJ40 rough running
#1
1992 XJ40 rough running
Hi guys.
Have a 92 Daimler that's running like a dog.
When driving she won't rev above 1500 and when you put your foot down the car judders and sometimes backfires.
I've had a recent new set of injectors put in, new temp sensor in the thermostat and stripped and cleaned the MAF and throttle body area but still now joy.
Left the battery disconnected for a while and seemed to run better until she got warm again.
Any ideas??
Thanks in advance!
Have a 92 Daimler that's running like a dog.
When driving she won't rev above 1500 and when you put your foot down the car judders and sometimes backfires.
I've had a recent new set of injectors put in, new temp sensor in the thermostat and stripped and cleaned the MAF and throttle body area but still now joy.
Left the battery disconnected for a while and seemed to run better until she got warm again.
Any ideas??
Thanks in advance!
#2
Sounds kind of like what I have going on in my car. My car it is very intermittent, sometimes wont go over 3k rpms and lacks power and others it runs fine. Like you if I floor it it buffets and feels like not enough fuel. If it runs bad I turn the car off for 15 secs and turn it back on and it works good.
Right now my car has a non working Air Pump, EGR valve, fan clutch and electric fan.
Since you have new injectors and there is no Chk engine light I would check the distributor cap and spark plugs for signs of age and wear and also cheak for good spark.
Also check for vacume leaks, best way to fix this is go to napa and buy 15 ft of new line and new tees and elbows and do the whole car. A family member of mine has an S Type and it was running really junky. The dealer was showing multiple misfire codes on the scanner. Their fix was all new vacume lines throughout, new spark plugs, and new coils.
Also a clogged catalytic converter can be the cause of bad running, I took my exhaust pipes off the manifold to install new O2 sensor and it was a fairly easy job. You might try and remove the pipes from the manifold and see if the car will rev up then.
Thats about where I am at, once I fix the EGR, fan, and air pump on my car I am just going to take it to Jag and see what they find on the scanner. I would like to have the ecu reprogrammed as well.
Right now my car has a non working Air Pump, EGR valve, fan clutch and electric fan.
Since you have new injectors and there is no Chk engine light I would check the distributor cap and spark plugs for signs of age and wear and also cheak for good spark.
Also check for vacume leaks, best way to fix this is go to napa and buy 15 ft of new line and new tees and elbows and do the whole car. A family member of mine has an S Type and it was running really junky. The dealer was showing multiple misfire codes on the scanner. Their fix was all new vacume lines throughout, new spark plugs, and new coils.
Also a clogged catalytic converter can be the cause of bad running, I took my exhaust pipes off the manifold to install new O2 sensor and it was a fairly easy job. You might try and remove the pipes from the manifold and see if the car will rev up then.
Thats about where I am at, once I fix the EGR, fan, and air pump on my car I am just going to take it to Jag and see what they find on the scanner. I would like to have the ecu reprogrammed as well.
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Hoggzman (02-10-2011)
#3
Sounds very similar yeah.
Thanks for all that mate, will check that today, if it ever stops raining!!
Did a VCM check this morning, and got the rather odd message of FAIL, no numbers, just FAIL, so NO idea what this means either!
Seems to be running all ok this morning, so looking like a fault that only manifests itsels once she's warming up.
Thanks for all that mate, will check that today, if it ever stops raining!!
Did a VCM check this morning, and got the rather odd message of FAIL, no numbers, just FAIL, so NO idea what this means either!
Seems to be running all ok this morning, so looking like a fault that only manifests itsels once she's warming up.
#4
Hoggz:
If the CEL is on, you need to shut off the car, turn the ignition to position II - without starting the engine - press and hold the VCM for a few seconds and you should get a code: something like Fuel Fail 39 or the like. It will be necessary for you to have that number (or numbers) in order to begin tackling the problems. Or, if you have a trust mechanic nearby, have the codes read by him on the computer. Odds are good that several codes have been thrown. But, if you are able to get the fault number we can begin to track down your problem.
Cheers!
Scott
If the CEL is on, you need to shut off the car, turn the ignition to position II - without starting the engine - press and hold the VCM for a few seconds and you should get a code: something like Fuel Fail 39 or the like. It will be necessary for you to have that number (or numbers) in order to begin tackling the problems. Or, if you have a trust mechanic nearby, have the codes read by him on the computer. Odds are good that several codes have been thrown. But, if you are able to get the fault number we can begin to track down your problem.
Cheers!
Scott
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