I have 1994 Vanden Plas with the 4.0L that won't start. It turns over and has fuel to the cylinders but no spark at the plugs - or from the coil to the distributor. It first happened after driving for 30 minutes and then going into a store for a short time. When I came out... it didn't start and there was no change once it had cooled off completely. The next day, after I had taken the negative lead off the battery to check the coil (which tested only slightly off) and to confirm 12 volts to the ignition amplifier (yes, it was there), it started and ran for a few days before the same problem occured. I replaced the coil (during which I also had the negative lead off) and it started again... and the problem came once more after a few more days! Now I can't get it started at all. I was thinking I need a new ignition amplifier, but I've read that they don't usually wear out. Any thoughts or suggestions for a frustrated Canuck who misses driving his beautiful cat?

 

Hi CanadianCat and welcome to the Forum,

I have a 1988 but I'll try to help you.

OK, you wrote the problem is NOT fuel related and there is no spark from coil to distributor.

1. make sure your battery is good and fully charged. Ensure it is still delivering 12V while cranking your engine.

2. Make sure your -tive battery cable is grounded properly.

3. Eliminate the easy things by reading, Haynes-Roadside_Repairs.pdf

4. If you don't already have a Haynes, you should get one. It has a lot of diagnostics in it and is one of the best Haynes I've ever gotten my hands dirty with.5. I put this up on Shelby676's thread, Fuel fault codes 14, 33 , but you may find it helpful.




NOTES:

1. diamonds, numbered 2 and 3, are ignition switched power leads. Check these for power, 12V, with the ignition switch ON but not cranking the engine. I believe you already did this for the coil but not the amp.
2. LIG32 is a ground. Ensure it is a good ground.
3. Wire colored WR connects to the high power section of the engine management ECU from the amplifier. WR connects to ECU terminal, LI58-1. B connects to power ground, LIG30. With the engine cranking, you should get a pulsed signal (supposed to be 0-0.6V at idle). Use an AC muti-meter connected between LI58-1 and ground.
4. there appears to be a CAPACITOR in parallel with the +tive terminal of the coil and ground. If there is, I would temporarily disconnect it for now. If it shorts, you won't get 12V to the coil.
5. Check all of these wires for tightness and continuity.

further NOTES:

This is my "decoding" of the pertinent wires you are "tracing".

• WB is white with black tracer
• WK is white with pink tracer
• U is blue
• RY is red with yellow tracer
• B is black and
• WR is white with red tracer

Good Hunting and keep us informed.

 

Thank you! The help is much appreciated!... I'll get into it as soon as I can and let you know how it turns out. :-)