Anybody ever remove all the smog related hardware under the hood and if so, how do I go about it. I live in an area that doesn't test and I'm looking to eliminate a few troubleshooting steps. Thanks, Jim

 

Lots of guys remove the air injection pump and plumbing, and simply plug the holes in the cylinder head.

In most cases this is done to either de-clutter the engine bay or because the injection pump has seized.

There's no particular operational advantage to remove the system if it is still functioning.

What troubleshooting steps are you up against? On your car the air injection system plays a very limited role is the grand scheme of things.

Cheers
DD

 

Welcome to the forum jimwrye,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to XJ40 forum. This is the place to post tech questions about your model.

When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see.

In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

No, it isn't

Should be in the XJ6 Ser I-II-III section


Cheers
DD

 

After about 20 years of inside storage, I'm tackling numerous issues one at a time. The car runs but misses at idle.
Regarding the air pump,... the small vacuum line that extends from the intake across the front of the motor to the (?)valve attached to the rear of the air pump collapses when engine is running and is soft and mushy as if it got hot at one time.
I've got allot to learn about this car and felt that if the smog system is not needed, why take the time.
Thanks for your interest. Jim

 

Yeah, go ahead and pull the system off if ya want to.

Every common problem/failure mode on these cars has been identified and documented. Don't hesitate to ask questions. Nine times out of ten the answer/fix in already known.

Cheers
DD

 

So, just disconnect the electrical, remove drive belt, and plug off hoses connections? No other adjustments are needed?

 

No adjustments to compensate for the system being removed or defeated, no.

When installed and fully operational the system functions only on a cold engine. There's a temp switch at the rear of the water rail. When coolant temp hits 150ºF (or something like that) the divertor valve on the back of the pump diverts pump output from the 6-branch distribution manifold to the air filter cannister so, actually, the pump output is simply routed to the air filter the vast majority of the time the engine is running.

You can remove as much or as little of it as you like. Most guys remove the pump itself, the pipes and hoses, and the 6-branch manifold at the cylinder head. I can't remember, off-hand, the thread size needed to plug the holes in the cylinder head.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Doug. Couldn't ask for better guidance and descriptive detail.

Jim