Thanks Bill,

I did disassemble the switch itself too, I am all out of ideas right now

Kay

 

Kay,

Just so I understand correctly, you did find a like relay and you swapped them over with one another. Correct? And there was no difference......

Others may not agree with me, but I would have replaced the solder on those joints that have obviously deteriorated, especially those where the connector pigtail interfaces with the board. That looks like a poor batch of solder and there could be cracks under all the junk/corrosion.

 

Hi Kay,

While you have the light logic module apart, check all the wires to ensure that none have been broken free where they are soldered to the circuit board.

How did the socket for the relay look? Clean or corroded?

Cheers,

Don

 

Sorry to piggy back you thread kay but while you are getting assistance perhaps I could as well, and i am from reading everything here, but my symptoms seem slightly different, the console lights work and the gear selector lights and the lights on the air con fan switches, and the console lights behind the switches etc DO DIM when I operate the dimmer. The instrument lights on the dash are the only ones out completely. Where should I start with that gents?

 

Mickvic,

Are you referencing the instrument cluster, where the speedometer and tachometer are located?

What year vehicle do you have?

 

december 1991 build xj40 4.0. Yes I am referencing the instrument cluster as you say where the dash and tacho are located.

 

You'll need to remove the cluster, there are instructions in the Haynes. To get to the front screws, you'll need to remove the two bottom cover plates on the light switch pack and the trip computer, there is a singel screw for each of the cover plates.

You'll be working in the foot well area, looking up at the underside of the dash area. There are four screws holding the cluster to the dash.

There will be three or four connectors that will need to be disconnected for removal. If you have the replacemts on hand prior to removal, you should have this completed start to finish in 30-40 minutes first time.

 

Ok Rob, before I start why am I removing the connectors, and should I be replacing with known good, or new? Are you inferring the connectors are the issue?

 

Hi if I may jump in....
I had the exact same problem with mine.... all lights except the backing lights for the speedo and tacho worked...

I simply removed the instrument panel and replaced the globes in the back of the unit.


Rob:
"To get to the front screws, you'll need to remove the two bottom cover plates on the light switch pack and the trip computer, there is a singel screw for each of the cover plates."



Forgive me if I am wrong Rob, I don't mean to contradict.
I am not sure you need to take removed the base plates off the light switch pack and the trip computer.....

I believe when I took mine out that there are actually holes in the corners of the base plates where you can stick the screwdriver through and get to the front screws above for the instrument panel.

You need only remove the knee bolster to get to them all.

 

Red,

I stand corrected. I forgot about the access holes for the cluster, and I think I forgot to mention the bolster. I take off the plates, guess it's easier for "ole fumble fingers".

Mickvic,

The connectors I mention are the supply feeds for the cluster, you'll need to disconnect them to remove the cluster in order to work on it. Then dissemble the cluster to get to the lights. The replacements I mentioned are in regard to the light bulbs.

 

Sorry I don't have photos of the light switch pack and trip computer panels, but below are links to photos showing the removal of the knee bolster and instrument cluster, including the electrical connectors Rob mentioned and the bulbs or globes inside the cluster. The last album is about replacing the ignition switch but it shows partial removal of the light dimmer module, so I'm including it just in case it's helpful:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page

Cheers,

Don

 

thanks rob by two and don, this will give me something to go on with!! Ill let you know how i go but ill be doing the front end first get the big stuff out of the way. I much prefer to do that than play around with trim globes etc but its all got to be done. cheers

 

Well it is moving bit forward, looks like the light logic module is the reason. Well that is my own assumption anyhow, after a suggestion from a friend I connected it back into the car and then took a multimeter and went through the pigtail with a multimeter to see if I could see any differnces in voltage of any of the connections when lights are completely off and when there are parking lights (that are gone) on...

No difference anywhere, the switch itself does work properly (metered that too) and there comes (low) voltage to it and it goes through as it is in on position.


Maybe I just get new light logic module and get it over with


Kay

 

Update, got the replacement LLM and everything works.... Thank you all for the important help.


Kay

 

Yeah! Congratulations, Kay!

Cheers,

Don

 

Kay,

Congrats!

Don't throw out the old LLM. We know there is something wrong with it and it's probably one of those redone solder joints. These parts will be harder to come by in the future. Someone may be willing to buy a non-functioning board, there's only so much that could be wrong with it. Or, it may be the perfect test board for you to hone your soldering skills on.