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No it doesn't. See the screw at the base of the fusebox? That holds the assy in place. Slacken or remove the screw and you can move the fusebox assy enough to unplug the harnesses then it should be fairly self explanatory how it all goes together. There might be a screw at the top too, you should be able to see these screws, I don't remember it being an issue getting the fuse box assembly out?
Larry
Last edited by Lawrence; Nov 11, 2019 at 02:15 PM.
Bryan from the XJ40 list on the Jag-Lovers forum has made me aware of a power flow problem with my car. I had reported here and on that forum that the fan control relay socket only has power to pins 3 and 5 (checked with the relay unplugged).
He tells me that pin 6 should also have constant power. The strange thing is that the power flowing to pin 6 of the relay socket also goes to pin 1 of the LS26 wiring plug that leads to the right fan motor. With the LS26 wiring plug unplugged I definitely have power at pin 1 of the female part of the plug so in theory I should ALSO have power at pin 6 of the relay socket since according to the wiring diagram shown on figure 29 of the 93 - 94 electrical guide these two points are fed by a common harness.
Hi Steve,
Bryan is a whiz and has taught me a lot about reading Jaguar schematics over the years. He's right, pin 6 at the relay socket should receive battery power from fuse A2 (30A) in the left A-pillar fuse box. And as you observed, pin 1 at the right fan receives battery power from the same source. The schematic shows a splice in the Purple wire that feeds both the relay and the right fan. The splice is connection LSS25, but the Electrical Guide does not divulge the location of this splice. By deduction, it has to be somewhere in the harness near the right fan and fan relay module. One option would be to carefully cut away the tape or split loom harness covering to expose the individual wires until you find the splice so you can check its integrity. Another option would be to simply run a new wire from pin 1 of the right fan connector to pin 6 of the fan relay module socket to restore power to the relay.
Here is a photo of the purple wires from terminal 6 from the fan control relay socket and pin 1 from the LS26 fan connector extending up into the harness.
The thinner purple wire on the right is the dead wire to terminal 6 of the relay socket and the thicker purple wire on the left is the one from terminal 1 of LS26
Both of these wires just extend up into the wiring harness that seems to eventually lead back to the left hand fuse box.
I was able to pull out the left hand fuse box and it seems to only have one solid purple wire leading to terminal 6 of the LS33 plug on the back of the fuse box.
Also if I pull fuse A2 from this left hand fuse box the power going to terminal 1 of the LS26 connector goes away.
So somewhere between where these two wires enter the harness at the front of the car and the back of the fuse box there is a splice where the two wires are joined.
And nowhere in the electrical guide does it give any hint where this LSS25 splice is located.
GAH!
Wiring harness from fan control relay socket and fan connector LS26
Last edited by JensenHealey; Nov 11, 2019 at 03:22 PM.
Here is a photo of the purple wires from terminal 6 from the fan control relay socket and pin 1 from the LS26 fan connector extending up into the harness.
Since you now have access to both wires, why not simply create a new splice? It doesn't matter where on the wires they are connected.
One of the XJ40's technological advances that Jaguar touted was that by converting to an electrical system that worked by switching the ground rather than power side of each circuit, significant lengths/weights of copper wire were eliminated from the vehicle. Since reducing the amount of copper wiring was a design goal, duplicate runs of wire to the fuse box are unlikely. Splices are more likely to be just upstream of the wye in the harness. The splices I've dealt with involved a crimp connector covered by heavy heat shrink tubing that is difficult to cut off. That's why I'm suggesting just creating a new splice right there where Steve has the wires already exposed.
Some of you may remember my earlier posts about the cooling fans on my 1994 XJ6 not functioning.
I had traced the fault down to one terminal in the electrical socket for the cooling fan control relay not having power present when it was supposed to.
The wire that supplies power to this dead terminal as it runs from the fuse box forward, splits off and also supplies power to one of the cooling fans.
I had power on the leg of the Y that runs to the cooling fan but not on the other leg of the Y that goes to the relay terminal.
Today I jacked up the front left corner of the car and pulled the wheel off so I could remove the plastic liner for the wheel well.
This let me get a really good look at the harness running from the cooling fan control relay socket back towards the firewall and left front fuse box.
I was hoping to see a lump where the LSS25 splice was located but no such luck.
So I started carefully cutting away the electrical tape that was wrapped around the harness. I found that as the harness ran up across the inside top of the fender, above the front wheel, that there was only ONE solid purple wire in there.
So that told me the splice was further forward. So again I started cutting away sections of tape further forward.
Finally I found the LSS25 splice! But externally there did not seem to be anything wrong with it. The LSS25 splice
A friend who was observing my progress suggested taking a small hat or hair pin and sticking it into the harness at various points and then using my test light to see where I did and didn't have power.
I first stuck the hat pin into the insulation around the LSS25 splice and checked it for power. Yup, power at the metal inner liner of the splice.
I did the same check on the wire just before it entered the bottom of the relay socket. Nope, no power there.
After looking around, I saw a place about 6 - 8 inches back from the bottom of the relay socket where there was a strange kink in the wire.
I grabbed it with my fingers to examine it more closely and it broke right there at the kink. break in the wire
I looked at the two ends of the wire at the break and there was green corrosion right there at the break. arrow pointing to corrosion on ends of the broken wire
So I stripped the wire back about 1/4 inch at each end of the wire and used a butt splice to reattach the wires.
After that I used my test light at the two white wire terminals on the fan control temperature switch connector and as I inserted the pointy end of the test light into each terminal MY FANS TURNED ON!!!
YAHOO!
Thanks to Don. Bryan, and Lawrence for all of the suggestions.
--
Steve
Last edited by JensenHealey; Nov 16, 2019 at 10:16 PM.
I have merged your new thread with your original one so all of the posts are together.
Cheers,
Don
But Don, the new thread I started specifically said "[SOLVED]" in the title of the thread.
I figured this was important.
It would be helpful to be able to go back and put the "[SOLVED]" into the title so other can easily find those threads.
--
Steve
But Don, the new thread I started specifically said "[SOLVED]" in the title of the thread.
I figured this was important.
It would be helpful to be able to go back and put the "[SOLVED]" into the title so other can easily find those threads.
--
Steve
Steve IMHO it's better to unify the topic into ONE thread for future archive searches ...I added a tag from your solved thread back to the initial one so that the original thread wouldn't stay "unresolved" but merging is a much better plan.
But Don, the new thread I started specifically said "[SOLVED]" in the title of the thread.
I figured this was important.
It would be helpful to be able to go back and put the "[SOLVED]" into the title so other can easily find those threads.
--
Steve
Hi Steve,
It's really only fair to future readers to have your solution in the same thread as all of the build-up posts. I actually re-titled your thread with RESOLVED at the end, but then realized that only one of the original issues you reported have been solved, so I reversed my edit. I assume you have not yet resolved the issues with the climate control system?
Don:
Yes, I have resolved both issues. See the following thread where I broke out the climate control issue which I have since solved and posted an update to that thread.
