I bought this car 2 weeks ago, what I noticed there were some missing fuses on the passenger side, I guess is called panel 2, I replaced the missing fuses and put the correct rates for each fuse. now the whole instruments cluster are not working, only the backlight works.

Before that happend all instruments in my car works fine.

Some people are saying that I may have fried the instruments pack, but before I started fouling around with the fuses, I disconect the negative from the battery, so there was no current while changing the fuses.

Also what I've noticed, on fuse panel #3, the position #7 if I put a fuse rated 3amp and 5 will be blown up, this card came with a 25amps fuse installed and the instrumental cluster was working fine, after I changed the fuses for the right rate, thats when the instrumental cluster went blank.

I took apart the fuse panel 3, and seems to be ok, I checked with my voltemeter, and its fine.

position #7 is for ignition circuits

What does ignition circuits covers? does anybody know?

it's weird, if a put a higher fuse it would not get blown up. so it makes me believe there isn't a short circuit, this fuse is calling for 3amps, unless someone re-wire somewhere in the ignition system and its demanding more juice (power)and the poor fuse can't handle it.

I am working slowly to restore this car, but this instrument cluster is kicking me big time, where is that thing called instrument pack? there is a way to trouble shoot that device?

I am placing some pic of the project, and removing the radio, its dated and I dont have the code key, I am pretty sure if I showed up at the dealer they may want an arm and leg, I am rather spent that money towards a radio with cd on it.

 

Fuse 7, 3amp (Automatic speed control relay coil, starter motor relay coil, cigar lighter relay coil, catalyst switching module supply, and windscreen washer relay).

You are correct, there should not be any "big" fuses in the center box.

Does the car still start?

When you say "missing fuses passenger side" I am guessing you mean "right side?" what were they, and what did not work before you replaced them?

Right side fuse box.
A3 20amp/cigar lighters (remove and see if this has any effect on center 7)
B6 Windscreen washer (as above).

A friendly Jaguar dealer will be able to sort out your radio code. You will need proof of ID, proof of ownership, and Chassis number.

Instrument cluster removal; with pics,
http://www.skjagtech.co.uk/support-p...strumentt.html

Cheers,

 

Thank you for your reply.

They car will start with a 10 amps fused in placed, if I removed the fuse it wont star.

I also noticed on this car, that the cooling fan(electric one) in front of the radiator it will run with the ignition key on, I am wonder if whom ever did this connection is coming off from panel #3 fuse 7, and thats the reason is blowing up, I will run a test and I will let you guys know.

Isn't 3 amps too little to handle all the circuits mentioned by Translator?

Where is that instrumental pack is located at? is it inside the gauges panel?


The car cranks fine, I haven't test drive since I don't the instrumental panel working, I can tell if is overheating, it wasnt when I bought the car so I am assuming that its runing cold, but I am afraid to mess up something else, I read somewhere in the web, that you have to drive up the car after batery has been disconected in order to reset the computer that leads me to ask another question does this cars has a computer?

Is it safe to do a test drive while all instruments panels is off? Assuming that the car is not overheating?

Gus

Thanks for your inputs guys.

 

Translator

Yes passenger side, the last time I have the gauges working I got a message from the console FUSE 1 Failure.

I neglected to takes notes as which fuses where missing the only one I could remember was the ride leveling was removed, and I think the abs, I think they removed the abs systems on this car, since I see a empty space in front of the battery at the engine compartment, something was there.

the previous owner must have been a butcher, since all the fuses where not matching the real values of the fuses, it was a mess, does the reason of me changing must of the fuses.

 

Update

Gentlemens

My assumption of something else being power on using that fuse, was correct, I traced a blue cable from the electric fan by the engine compartment, the stupid that did this hooked the fan where the power washer relay was, I removed wire and place a 3am fuses without blowing up, GREAT.

Thank You TRANSLATOR, for the hint on the power wash devices connected on fuse 3, #7.

I like to going forward, now, I have to see why they connected the fan directly bypassing its own(fan)relay. I think I opened a can full of worms.

Gauges still without a power, another problem in the line, here are some pictures of the relay with an illegal connection to the fan, and also a picture of my death instrumental panel.

thanks Translator.

Gus
Miami Florida

 

Fuse 1 warining is right side fuse box.

The ABS system will not have been removed, but the self leveling could very well have been.

Easy to check, look under a rear wheel arch, if you see a hydraulic line going into a valve block just in front of the upper end of the shock absorber/damper you probably still have self leveling. If not, the car may have been adapted to the later system (this would be good news.

If it has been replaced then you will want to check that the removed electrical ride height sensor connector socket has been properly weather proofed, silicon or some such.

The hard wired fan is most likely because looking at your location at a guess I would say that a previous owner was always running with the aircon on full and this fan is used to help with engine cooling when you have the aircon on to a cold setting in a hot environment, and that the fan thermostat + relay had ceased to function. If you are going to use the aircon you need to get this fan working, correctly.

The low amps in the center box are because these fuses are only protecting the relay circuits.

Post up a pic of the other side of the engine compartment from the battery, remember that these cars were designed as right hand drive. For example on a rhd car the battery is on the other side of the engine, and in the place where your battery is located you would find all the hydraulic gubbins related to the ABS, air con, and self levelling suspension..

Fuses to check, with a test meter ignition on.
RH A1 2 amp ride leveling see above.
A2 20A Rh aircon/heater fan,
A5 15A Cooling fan
B1 20A LH aircon/heater fan

LH Box,
B3 3A Instrument pack memory

Center box
5 3A Cooling fan relay,
6 5A Instrument pack

Hopefully one of our electrical guru's can dive in, Thermo, Phd you out there?

Cheers,

 

Thanks again, I will look into.

What I've been doing is cleaning all the corrotion from the relays, they are all nasty and dirty.

Gus

Miami Fl

 

Ok, here are some pictures of the engine and also some pictures, of the riding leveling, I saw two tubes, cuted off, but it looks like is coming off underneath of the fuel tank, I am not sure if that what translator is refering to. anyways here at the pictures.

Hopefully it will help you sorting things out.

thanks

Gus
Miami FL
USA

 

engine pics

 

The fan works fine as long is connect it to a hot wire while ignition is on, I have to find a suitable hot wire that activates with the ignition on until I get to it, one of this days, UPS just deliveried my thermostate, what I need to order is the temperature sender, relays seens to be okay.

Anyways, I am going to change the thermostate, it has only one thermostate? right !

Like I said previously, this car has been negleted for some time.

The engines runs smooth, but since I dont have the gauges working, I cant tell if it is overheating.

I finnally got my car's manual, what I am trying to figure it out is a what point there is power to the instrumental panel, I hoped I didnt fried the instrumental panel.


For your information, when I turned the ignition key on, it sounds like air pump, I am not sure if its the fuel pump, or something else, it remainds me the sound of airliner before taxing and getting ready to take off, you hear this noises of pumps.


Thanks for your input.

Work in progress.

 

When you change the thermostat and temp sender unit be careful with the wiring connector to the sender unit they can become fragile and a bad connection will give you a Check engine light (hmm perhaps not at the moment).

When you turn the ignition on, you may hear the fuel pump kick in for a couple of seconds (noise from behind rear seat)

You will also hear the ABS system charging up, can take a few seconds), when this stops your orange ABS dash warning light will extinguish (at least it would if your dash worked lol)

From your pics, all looks to be present. I don't recognise the circular device in post number 9 in the middle of the heat shield. Can anyone enlighten me (thanks).

 

Okay, I will be careful while changing the thermostate. tks for the hint.

So you can't tell by the pictures if the air riding system still on this car?

Thanks

Gus

 

Good news,, I got this car about 3 weeks ago, and the first thing I did was degreased the engine, and washed it down, of course I was very carefull not spraying too much water in the electric stuff.

Well, I was about to take apart the cluster panel to begin troubleshooting it, but then I decided to double check that fuses one more time, this fuse is located on circuit 2 Fuses box, position #B3, on the driver side with a 3amps fuse, as I disconected the fuse I noticed that the fuse was kind of wet, so I got my air compresor and shoot air throught the fuses panels to get any moisture away, I made sure that the circuit was dried before applying some electricity.

Voila the fuse panel came alive, it looks like when I washed down my engine somewhere in the firewall of the car there is a leak, or small hole that is allowing moisture getting there and it would make his way to the fuses box.
I would be using silicone to seal any possibles holes or cables going through the firewall behind the dash board.

Thank You very much of your advise and winsdom.
You guys rock.

By the way, I went today to the jaguar dealership and I took the radio with me and the title of my car and they graciously gave me the security key for my radio, and it is working fine. no fees.

But I did buy the master key for my car because my car got sold with the valet key only, the green key, would not open the glove compartment and the trunk neither, does the reason of me getting the master key. thanks to the internet, I figured out that the green key was a valet key, since I have never owned a Jaguar before.

Car is running smooth, not overheating, so I am not going to foul around with the thermostate as yet, I do need to fix my electric fan, so it will turn on automaticly when is needed.

Happy Holidays,
Cutler Bay Florida
Gus

 

Nice one Gus, hope you can now enjoy the your car.

Also good to hear about GOOD SERVICE from the dealer.

You didn't mention that you had "power washed" the fuse boxes GRRR (Mind you I'd avoid admitting that one as well) LOL

Tip for drying out fuse boxes etc, use a mains powered fan heater or hair dryer, works wonders.

All the best,

 

I guess the chain of events cause that, but, I didn't purposedly washed the fuse box, the water somehow got into the fuses box inside the car, by the driver side.

I am moving forward, I am installing two sets of speaker since there were missing, and I have a laundry list before I take this babe for a spin.
The power antenna, is coming from hong kong, not too bad for 26 dollar shipping include, they said is new from ebay, I hope is not a toy,

Good day.

Gus
Florida

 

I've had computer stuff from HK with no problems, so fingers crossed.

Cheers,