WOW! Thanks Rob. That's the only anwser I've heard that makes sence. I've yet to pull em out but will soon. Got any pictures or any more info on the best way to repair em and how to spot the areas that need att?
Thanks lots.

 

Can you direct me to said post on how to?

 

Jerry,

I will find them, but not until later in the week, way too short on time right now.

 

Jerry,

Below are a few threads I found in about ten minutes. Read them over for your edification. It's not a hard fix and you won't have to do it again if done properly.


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ts-dead-77696/

JagFORUM Logon

JagFORUM Logon

 

Rob, can you tell me what joints you fixed on yours? I took mine apart and I don't see any cracks yet! I took pictures and enlarged em to look close and I don't see any issues, I do however have a smashed wire on one circut plug still I would love your help.

 

In the trade, that's called "percussive maintenance"

 

I'm going to steal that one! LOL!

Cheers,

Don

 

Jerry,

The short answer is no. I don't remember which ones in particular were the major contributors. That said, at the advice of those who came before me, look for obvious discoloration and joints that are not "shinny". If you read the posts, there was reference in one thread that referred to an area around one of the capacitors and/or larger joints.

What I would do, if I was doing it again, is just go through every joint with a magnifying glass and re-solder any suspects. I wish I could be more specific, but what may have been damaged on my circuit boards, may be just fine on yours.

 

+1

Larry

 

Jerry,

To add a little more content....

I'm not sure of your skill level on soldering, but it sounds like you're either apprehensive or want an "absolute" directive on the repair. I don't beleive anyone is going to be able to give you an absolute how-to, other than to tell you ...... you can absolutely handle this task. I had never done this before and with encouragement from the forum members (Jag-lovers member at that time) I dove in and handled it.

One item of paramount importance, use only a soldering iron, not a soldering gun. You want a low wattage output iron, I think 15-20 watt is sufficient for working in these boards. You risk severely damaging the circuits with a variable wattage gun. You simply want to re-flow the solder on the joints, another words heat the solder enough where you visibly see a change in the character of the joint. Just a few seconds at the most will do it.

 

Hi Jerry,

Like Rob, I can't offer the specific instructions you like to have, but I did take photos as I was repairing cold and starved solder joints in our Transmission Control Module and Fuse Boxes, which may help you know what to look for in your Instrument Cluster:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


Rob's soldering tips are right on - my favorite soldering iron for this type of work is a 20W or 25W iron with a chisel-shaped tip about 1/8 inch wide, which I find to be more effected than a sharply-pointed tip. The idea is to heat both the circuit board pad and the component lead simultaneously until the solder liquefies, immediately add a little more solder from a fresh roll of thin (1/16 inch or thinner) rosin-core solder, then wipe your iron upward along the component lead to leave a nice little volcano-shaped solder mound. Don't blow on the hot solder or vibrate the circuit board in any way as the solder cools or you risk a cold joint. These days there are probably plenty of good soldering DIY videos on YouTube.

Cheers,

Don

 

Well, OK, I pulled the consol apart and resoldered every point and it still does not work? I'm at a loss and am very upset so I guess the only thing left is send it out and pay the $250.00 + to get it fixed.
Thanks for your advice.