Hey all. Got the new shocks in but I can't get the lower shock bolt to come out. Tried bfh, wd40, shock under load, shock no load, pry bar, all to no avail. Finally cut the lower eye to the old shocks (they were done) just to see what is the deal. Can't figure it out. Got the nut off fine. The other side I've tried turning but it seems that the rubber may have bonded and it is impossible to turn more than 1/4 inch then it snaps back into place. Am I missing something?

 

Hi Rutty,

I've had that trouble too. I think the issue is that the unthreaded shaft of the pivot bolt corrodes inside the lower control arm and seizes. I've had luck with a combination of lots of penetrating oil applied to both ends, alternated with lots of sharp hammer blows on the end of the bolt and twists on the bolt head with a socket and breaker bar or air impact wrench. Some guys have had luck with heating the bolt, but since it is a heat-treated part, you should take care not to get it too hot (certainly not red hot) or you'll anneal and weaken it and render it unsafe for reuse.

If you'll leave the nut on the bolt, threaded on until it is just flush with the end of the threads, you'll minimize the damaged done to the threads as you hammer on it.

I think I had to repeat the cycle of penetrant, hammering, twisting five or six times to finally break the bolt free.

Once you get it apart and are reassembling things, coat the shoulder of the bolt with copper grease or anti-seize compound to reduce future corrosion and seizing.

Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

 

I wound up putting it back together (destroyed the shock mount on the actual shock to see the bolt properly) and limped it to a reputable repair shop I found. Told the guy I felt defeated but he had seen the problem before. He prepared me that if the bushing broke it would be a new control arm but he would try to remove.

He got it in out with minimal tearing on the bushing but the metal sheath came out with the bold. He had to press out the sheath and lube it really well and pressed it back in the bushing and the bolt slid right in.

Basically took a lot of grease and some big boy tools but both sides came out and it got installed easily. Cost me 2 bills but that is WAY cheaper than the lower CA.

Seems that the bold and the sheath will fuse if you don't lube it with anti seize pretty generously. That wasn't done from the last place and from the craftsmanship on the after market shock I am not surprised that the installation place skipped that step.

Thanks again Don. I feel dumb for beating on it for a couple hours but sometimes it just takes more than a home garage has.

 

Better ask Don again.

If those bushings are like the later ones, the metal sleeve is bonded to the rubber.

Once the bond is broken, or the rubber is torn, it is time for a new bushing.

 

Hi Rutty,

Plums is right, if the center metal tube of the shock bushing came out of the rubber part of the bushing, the bushing is ruined. And unfortunately, except for the late '94 models with the X300 rear suspension, the lower shock bushing on an XJ40 is bonded into the shock, so unless the bushing for an X300 could be made to fit, you will probably need a new shock. That torn bushing is not likely to last for long.

Please keep us informed.

Don

 

The bushing in question is part of the LCA not the shock. New shocks are just a 3 sided square with holes drilled for the acceptance of the bolt.

It looks like if the bushing goes I would have to replace the whole Lower Control Arm. If not and it is a seperate part I will get a new bushing but I haven't seen that as a buy able part.

If I have to replace the entire LCA I will be waiting for a while. The repair shop seemed to think it would be fine however. I'll get a picture later today and post.

 

Ah! I probably assumed you were working on the rear shocks because those are the ones guys typically have trouble getting the bolt out of.

The shock or damper bushing in the front LCA is a replaceable part. See Part 13 in the diagram below. I believe the part number for your '92 is CAC75851 but you should confirm that at jaguarclassicparts.com. Several members have been able to press the old bushing out and the new bushing in using a bolt and nut and appropriately sized sockets and washers, but a ball joint kit borrowed from a local auto parts store would probably also work. I think most of the independent Jag parts suppliers should be able to get the bushing for you. I got mine from Coventry West, but forum sponsors SNG Barratt and Jagbits can probably also help.





Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Rutty, I too thought we were talking rear shocks and was wondering what bushing you were having trouble with!!

I replaced the part Don refers to (item13) on mine last year with the URO eqiv - however - a word of warning - the outer diameter of the bushing was fine but I found the internal dia. to be a bit loose for the shock bolt so I'd advise buying the OEM Jag part if you can.

Larry

 

I sell it on my website Cac75851