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Looks like I'm ok on the studs Jim, thanks again for the offer but the ones I sourced locally will work fine.
When I removed the back manifold to get at the gasket, I left the downpipe attached - not the best policy as it's a real struggle to move the manifold out of the way - and I have my doubts that fitting the new gasket would be easy either!
So today I removed the manifold from the downpipe - I wasn't looking forward to accessing those rusty nuts but lo and behold it was dead easy after giving them a drink of liquid wrench. I think I'll replace all the studs and clean things right up before i reassemble things.
While I was in there I noticed the I noticed that the EGR pipework was pretty loosey-goosey at the union, don't know if it was leaking or not but I'll be tightening that lot up too when I all goes back on.
Meanwhile, I'll be checking the manifold for warpage, reckon a bit of grinding compound on a glass plate and some elbow grease will fix it if it ain't too bad. Now we just wait for the new gaskets ...I called this morning and they hadn't been shipped as yet ..
Well I checked the back manifold for level and it did have some rocker to it so tomorrow I'm going to take both manifolds down to the machine shop and have them trued up.
One thing came up today, the torque settings for the manifold stud nuts in Haynes is wrong!
Haynes quotes the torque for the manifold nuts as 23-27NM but the Jag manual on CD shows the figures as follows:
Since I've had our '93 manifolds off to do the head gasket twice, the nuts are probably not torqued correctly, assuming I followed Haynes (and I probably did). Now I'll have to check them.
Good catch and thanks for adding yet another task to my "already so long I'll never get it all done" list of things to do on the Jaguars.
Since I've had our '93 manifolds off to do the head gasket twice, the nuts are probably not torqued correctly, assuming I followed Haynes (and I probably did). Now I'll have to check them.
Good catch and thanks for adding yet another task to my "already so long I'll never get it all done" list of things to do on the Jaguars.
Don
Well lets hope the CD is right because I'd hate to have those suckers snap when I harden them down ...
Exhaust manifolds back from the machine shop, pocket $175 lighter, manifolds were both seriously warped, one mm skimmed off each ...now good to go just waiting on those damn gaskets and the fuel pump ...expected delivery sometime in September .....
Hey Jim, guess what? Gaskets arrived just now so 3 days early, no duty or taxes, SNG Barratt sent 'em as antique auto parts and I didn't know but auto parts 25 yrs+ old are not subject to customs fees ..groovy, baby!
Got the exhaust all back together and thought I'd try my luck getting her started to check the work but no such luck, cranked a few times and nada no go niente nothing
Pulled out the plugs to have a peek and the plugs were dry as the proverbial bone.
Next I changed out the fuel filter, no squirt, just dribbles so surmising no fuel pressure in the lines ...it's really starting to look like the pump and the tank out job, eh?
I did manage to have a squint at the quick-release clips on the fuel lines at the tank while I was under there, so that's a start, I guess!
I've swapped out the relays that feed the pump, both the fuel pump relay and the o2 sensor heater relay.
Even though I don't want to believe it I'm just about convinced I'm gonna have to pull the tank - I'll try Bryan's checklist one more time to be absolutely sure but I'm not expecting much
So, If it is tank out/replace pump time, I want to make sure I've got things in order - first step is to drain the tank, right?
Sorry to hear of fuel system issues,Larry.
Siphon all the gas you can,reminds me of Cheech and Chong walkin down the road with a trash can full of gas.....
Fuel line clips can be a Bi*&$h,looong pliers,good light,don't lose them.
I took the fuel filler gaitor off,and slid it down the neck,4 screws,made a new one out of inner tube,works good.
The black tubes at the top vent thingy,push in the chrome collar,to release the tubes.
The rest is easy.
Part of Champ's issue,was the 'puter grounds the relay,is buggered.I just grounded the relay,so key on,and the pump runs.
The other issue,was the can the pump runs in,the pump would run,but no fuel pressure,had to modify that silly design.
...it's really starting to look like the pump and the tank out job, eh? [snip]
So, If it is tank out/replace pump time, I want to make sure I've got things in order - first step is to drain the tank, right?
I plan on siphoning the gas out BTW
I used a cheap "Fluid Transfer Pump" from the auto parts store ($8 or so) to siphon as much fuel as I could into two cheap plastic 5 gallon gas cans. There are baffles inside the tank that may prevent you from being able to siphon all the fuel, but due to the way the fuel pump is plumbed inside the tank, I don't think you'll have a problem with much fuel draining out the bottom of the tank when you disconnect the fuel lines (but be prepared in case I'm wrong - eye protection especially). I think there were about four inches of fuel in my tank when I replaced our pump. Looking into that pool of gasoline, I thought to myself, "Now would not be a very good time to start smoking."
Technically, the fuel line clips on the bottom of the tank just need to be pulled out a little from the fittings - they don't have to be pulled all the way off. But there's so little room to work above the differential that you don't have much control using long needle-nose pliers or such. One method, if you can, is to thread a piece of string through the "loop" part of the clip that extends out from the fitting. Hold both ends of the string and pull the clip away from the fitting. The string will keep the clip from going very far when it springs off the fitting. Before you reinstall the tank, place the clips back onto the fittings and the fuel lines will just snap in place when you reinstall them - you won't have to fiddle with the clips from underneath again. But it is prudent to position the "loops" of the clips so they'll be accessible if the day comes when you have to disconnect them again (hopefully that will be never).
Well Don, the "fluid transfer pump" worked like a charm, managed to get about 35 litres out of the tank.
After getting it out she showed about 1/2 of the red on the dash gauge, so I guess there's still *some* in there.
If the hoses of the pump weren't so "memory coiled" from the packaging I think I could have got a bit more out - oh well, I don't think the tank will be too heavy to move now, so I think we're good on that front.
I will for sure wear goggles when I pull the lines out though, thanks for that tip.
Jim, I think I remember seeing some long needlenose in your kit so I went shopping for some today at Princess Auto - boy did I get some long ones - (16") for the grand sum of $10
My plan () is to try and turn those clips 90 degrees to unlock them rather than pulling them off, though I think I might have to remove the handbrake union to get access, it sure looks pretty tight up there.
So lads, I did Bryan H's electrical test(s), but only the first one.
I couldn't see the point of going any further with the various other relay tests as I had 12v on the brown/yellow at the fuel pump relay and when I jumpered the brown/yellow to the blue/red, nothing happened, pump didn't run.
According to the way I'm reading his test procedure, the issue lies between the fuel relay socket and the pump, so my next step will be to check the wiring from the socket to the tank - and - if it all tests good then it IS definitely the pump or at an least "inside the tank" issue, right?
I ordered the pump from Amazon.ca on the 22nd August so yesterday (Sept 3rd) I finally got a tracking number telling me all was proceeding normally and delivery was "on time" - delivery is scheduled for Sept 10th., a week next Thursday ..and it doesn't even have to go through customs
Yup,this is sounding like a "tank out" job,give the screws on the filler neck gaitor a shot of squirty lube,the ones in Champ were seized I recall.
Mine look pretty clean Jim but the overflow hose clamp just under the gaiter is fitted facing the fender, gonna have to use a small socket or the stubbiest screwdriver ever invented to get it off
Originally Posted by manwich66
Those clips are a bugger,I like the idea of a string around them,good insurance against losing them.
I had an idea to use a sliding ring on the handles of the needlenose - idea being grip clip, slide ring down handles locking them together and preventing jaws of the needlenose from opening .. do the twist or remove clip, then use the same technique on the fuel line union to wiggle it out of the tank ..that's the idea anyway, we'll see if it works!!
Originally Posted by manwich66
I also remember reading somewhere that the lead wires inside the tank,up through the vent flange used to be an issue too.
yep, I read about that too, I checked for 12v today from the relay to the tank and I had a good strong 12v all the way to the flange, so tank out it is. Only a couple more things to move, battery stand and gaiter/filler, took the CD player out today after checking all the wiring and grounds.
Originally Posted by manwich66
All in all,fairly straightforward operation,sure would be nice to test that pump can tho..
Hang in there Larry!
Jim.
Alright, I'll bite, how do I check that pump can? Maybe I'll ask you that once I get the pump out!!
08-24-2015, 04:51 PM
update 5
getting her started to check the work but no such luck, cranked a few times and nada no go niente nothing
I'm just about convinced I'm gonna have to pull the tank - I'll try Bryan's checklist one more time to be absolutely sure but I'm not expecting much 
update 6
) is to try and turn those clips 90 degrees to unlock them rather than pulling them off, though I think I might have to remove the handbrake union to get access, it sure looks pretty tight up there.
