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Hi , do I have to undo the rack and lower it in order to remove the lower wishbone inner bolt? Do any connections to the rack have to be undone? Mick p.s. everything else is off including springs etc.
Hi , do I have to undo the rack and lower it in order to remove the lower wishbone inner bolt? Do any connections to the rack have to be undone? Mick p.s. everything else is off including springs etc.
Hi mickvic,
If the rack is in your way, then the answer is probably yes, but the rank only mounts with a few screws/bolts (four?), and you may need to disconnect the steering column, which is typically one screw on the collar.
BTW, what year and model are you working on? Always a good idea to add that info to your signature.
Hi Don, posted in xj40 forum didnt think to post year. '91 4.0 xj40. And yes I have tried to update my profile cant quite work it out. I agree after having a look 4 bolts and the steering column will be fun getting a spanner in at that one.
Have the car jacked right up with everything off rh front except that lower wishbone. I used my homemade spring compressor which was modelled on yours and a couple of others thanks for that
I have noticed the RH rear subframe mount looks a bit split, apart from holding the engine supported engine mounts undone would there be any other issues with removing the sub frame? Ive searched for threads but having trouble finding relevant ones.
How does one get the front sub frame mount off?
Apart from this im replacing all wishbone bushes, upper and lower ball joints , rack end bj's, sway bar link.
Will move on to the rear at a later date. The other issue is blowers only running on high (seems common) no ir con working, drivers door handle only just working at max lift, battery going dead over a week or so. Phew!!
Shes a wonderful car kingfisher blue cream interior...gets up and goes
I have noticed the RH rear subframe mount looks a bit split, apart from holding the engine supported engine mounts undone would there be any other issues with removing the sub frame? Ive searched for threads but having trouble finding relevant ones.
How does one get the front sub frame mount off?
Hi Mickvic,
Below are photos of the subframe removal, rear pivot bush replacement, and engine mount comparison. I'm including the spring compressor photos for future readers of this thread:
There has been some speculation about whether it's possible to replace the rear pivot bushes without completely removing the subframe from the car. It might be possible using the large socket-and-bolt method or a ball joint removal kit, but since you might as well replace the Vee mounts and engine mounts while you're going to all this trouble, I would strongly suggest that you just drop the subframe. It's really not that difficult once you have the engine supported.
Some guys have managed to support the engine from below using a floor jack and wood blocks to cushion the oil sump, but I didn't want anything in my way underneath, so I bought an inexpensive engine support bar and Nylon web sling at Harbor Freight. I've seen photos showing how some guys have rigged up their own support bars using an aluminum extension ladder.
Please keep us informed. You're going to like the way your car steers, handles and rides when you're finished!
Thanks graham thanks Don. I have S1 '72 SHORT WHEEL BASE XJ6 AS WELL! Don at 357,000 km mileage on the xj40 I may very well get some change in the ride if I replace all the rubbers mounts etc. I was not planning too but I may as well if I can keep the engine supported. The upper and lower ball joints are ok they must have been done before, the rack end ball joints are floppy as, and seem to be rusted on to their lock nuts!!! very hard to undo. Lower wishbone bushes non existent.
Don et al the rear circular cross member bush is eccentric , ie: the cente hole is off centre! How do I know which way it goes in, is there some guide or locating pin for this bush?
Don et al the rear circular cross member bush is eccentric , ie: the cente hole is off centre! How do I know which way it goes in, is there some guide or locating pin for this bush?
Hi mickvic,
See the photos at the second link in my earlier post - I show a side view of the bush as well as how to make orientation marks with a center punch on the subframe bore ring to help you get the new bushes in the proper orientation. I think I've seen a factory-specified angle for orientation somewhere, but it's easiest to just mark the subframe before you remove the old bushes. Worst case, you can use the side photo as a guide to get your new bushes close - and just do your best to get both bushes aligned as closely as possible to the same angle.
Inspired now, replacing everything this front end will be like new. The only thing thats servicable is the tie rod rh drivers side. Well LH ball joints arent bad and some of the bushes but in for a penny in for a pound!! (quite a few pounds or aussie dollars). Including sub frame mounts....
Ok I am going to remove the cross member, trying to undo the engine mounts very hard to get a spanner on either top or bottom nut does anyone have any suggestions?
Ok I am going to remove the cross member, trying to undo the engine mounts very hard to get a spanner on either top or bottom nut does anyone have any suggestions?
Hi mickvic,
I seem to recall that on at least one side, instead of trying to loosen the lower engine mount nut (Part 5 in the diagram), I found it easier to remove the bolts (Parts 7) that secure the lower engine mount bracket (Part 6):
This has to be done mostly by feel since it's difficult to actually see the bolt heads. And you still have to remove the engine mount top nut. I think I did that with a ratcheting ring spanner/box-end wrench. If you don't own a set of ratcheting ring spanners, I highly recommend them - you'll wonder how you got along without them.
Where do you get the nice exploded diagram? The haynes manual is less than helpful in a lot of cases.
The engine mount bracket bolts are probably metric, but I seem to recall that at least one fastener in the suspension was Imperial/SAE - maybe the engine mount nuts. Sorry I can't remember more clearly. If your new engine mounts come with new nuts you can easily check to see if they are metric or SAE/inch.
There are several sources for exploded parts diagrams. I use the following three:
jaguarclassicparts.com, the parts service of the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust.
jaguarmerriamparts.com, the Jaguar dealer in Merriam, Kansas, which sells Jaguar parts at discount prices.
The Jaguar Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC), which can be downloaded from this forum. See the instructions in the link below:
Hey Graham,
Not to hijack the thread, but i had to steal that pic to take to the junkyard so i can show the guy what i want. Just thought you should know!
Got the subframe off and out from under. Its not heavy at all. right rear mount split, both front mounts split (could they have become split when i was dropping the front?) Anyway rh one is soft and they look origonal which is 24yo. (wish i was that age again). Engine mounts look ok but ive got new ones. Judging by how hard this one was to get off could be bugger to get back on. Have the engine supported by a jack under the sump with a wooden plank between the jack and the sump to spread the load. Also have a stand under the front pulley in case the jack sags.
interestingly the rear sub frame mounts, which are eccentric bushes, are positioned slightly differently. Ive asked for the new ones to go in at the same angles as the ones they are replacing. Could the car have had a belt in the front causing a twist in the mount? Showing the old front sub frame mount and the new notice the difference.
interestingly the rear sub frame mounts, which are eccentric bushes, are positioned slightly differently. Ive asked for the new ones to go in at the same angles as the ones they are replacing. Could the car have had a belt in the front causing a twist in the mount? Showing the old front sub frame mount and the new notice the difference.
Hi mickvic,
The rear pivot bushes should not be at different angles. Somewhere in one of the manuals I recall seeing a specification for the angle, but I can't recall how it was measured. I just make a mark with a center punch on the subframe bush ring to help me get the new bush in at the same angle, and I eyeball the second bush to be sure it goes in at the same angle as the first one. The photos below show the angle of the original bushes in our '93:
Thanks don, I did make a quick call to the local jag mechanic who confirmed the correct location of the eyelet as per your diagram, if you look at the subframe from the drivers side the eye on drivers side will be at 10.30, if you pop round the car to the passenger side and look from that side the eye on passenger side will be at 1.30, which as the mechanic says fullfills its function in cushioning the subframe from shocks, the "big" side (of rubber) will be the side that is compressed when a wheel hits a pothole etc. So all good. Im not sure why the lh side was pointing to 12. o clock lets hope she goes back in ok. Get it all back tomorrow then the fun of re-assembly. New discs new pads new everything I may have mislaid the little o rings that seal the power steer lines going to the rack any idea what size these are?
well ive tried to get them in but it it wont work the distance from the mount at the back and the mount at the front is too long by at least a centimetre. Ill have to get the bushes out then back in again at 12 o clock i reckon.
02-01-2015, 05:15 AM
