Repairing Broken Pot Metal Door Handles
#1
Repairing Broken Pot Metal Door Handles
In my introduction, I mentioned I had spent some time repairing the door handles in my 88 XJ40 where the pot metal had broken in the same area on three of the handles.
Not going into details about removal and etc, I'm sure most either know or can figure out that.
The pivot leg on the upper part of the pot metal housing had broken off allowing the lever to raise up and not pull the linkage rod.
first attempt did not work, I tried using JB Kwik weld on one, lasted until I reinstaled it and tried to open the door, came apart.
so to the more difficult repair.
Pot metal (zinc alloys) do not weld or solder very easily, they cannot stand very high heat. Around 400 degrees, they will start to burn (melt).
You need to clean the broken areas very good, Remove the annodizing from around the broken area (black coating), I filed the edges on the broken pieces to remove ozidation and then used a stainless steel utility brush to further clean them, then used compressed air to remove dust. Liberally coat both areas with Silver Solder Flux (paste type - liquid type does not work as well), join parts together as best as you can. Using a small pinpoint propane or butane/benzene torch, heat the area slowly. Do not hold the torch in one spot, move it around alittle, when flux starts bubbling and begins to turn brown, apply SILVER solder - use solid core, no flux inside the solder. I prefer to use the thinnest diameter I can find, usually from a electrical supplier, it melts quicker with less heat. If you do not get a good joint, it is most likely due to not having cleaned the metal thoroughly.
After parts cooled, I them painted a coating of the JB weld over the soldered area, this may not be necessary, but I thought, it cannot be seen and just an added measure of strength.
Another modification I made at that time was to replace the pivot pin with a longer length of 5/32 diameter music wire I extended this out past the end of the housing and then using 1/8" by 1/2" steel plate, I made an L shaped bracket, drilled a 5/32nd" hole in the upper part, the fit it to the housing and secured it in place. this will hold down on the pivot pins upwards pressure, not allowing it to move upwards when opening the door.
So far this has worked in my application, I have repeatedly opened the doors trying to get them to come apart, so far so good.
Thermo, I hope you were able to under stand how I soldered the pot metal.
Now on to other problems.
Good Luck - Johnny
Not going into details about removal and etc, I'm sure most either know or can figure out that.
The pivot leg on the upper part of the pot metal housing had broken off allowing the lever to raise up and not pull the linkage rod.
first attempt did not work, I tried using JB Kwik weld on one, lasted until I reinstaled it and tried to open the door, came apart.
so to the more difficult repair.
Pot metal (zinc alloys) do not weld or solder very easily, they cannot stand very high heat. Around 400 degrees, they will start to burn (melt).
You need to clean the broken areas very good, Remove the annodizing from around the broken area (black coating), I filed the edges on the broken pieces to remove ozidation and then used a stainless steel utility brush to further clean them, then used compressed air to remove dust. Liberally coat both areas with Silver Solder Flux (paste type - liquid type does not work as well), join parts together as best as you can. Using a small pinpoint propane or butane/benzene torch, heat the area slowly. Do not hold the torch in one spot, move it around alittle, when flux starts bubbling and begins to turn brown, apply SILVER solder - use solid core, no flux inside the solder. I prefer to use the thinnest diameter I can find, usually from a electrical supplier, it melts quicker with less heat. If you do not get a good joint, it is most likely due to not having cleaned the metal thoroughly.
After parts cooled, I them painted a coating of the JB weld over the soldered area, this may not be necessary, but I thought, it cannot be seen and just an added measure of strength.
Another modification I made at that time was to replace the pivot pin with a longer length of 5/32 diameter music wire I extended this out past the end of the housing and then using 1/8" by 1/2" steel plate, I made an L shaped bracket, drilled a 5/32nd" hole in the upper part, the fit it to the housing and secured it in place. this will hold down on the pivot pins upwards pressure, not allowing it to move upwards when opening the door.
So far this has worked in my application, I have repeatedly opened the doors trying to get them to come apart, so far so good.
Thermo, I hope you were able to under stand how I soldered the pot metal.
Now on to other problems.
Good Luck - Johnny
Last edited by JLBolen; 05-07-2011 at 06:28 AM.
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