Replaced fuel pump, still no cranky
#1
Replaced fuel pump, still no cranky
On the way home from work in my 94 xj6 I puttered to a stop. Got the car home and found that fuel pump was bad after checking all my switches and relays. So I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter with a friend (not a one man job).
After we buttoned everything up. Car won't crank. Help!
I'm concerned that there is a switch or something not working?
Can anyone tell me what position the button at the fuel cap should be in? In or out.
Also I'm not getting fuel through the pressure regulator either. It comes through the line to it but not through the other side. I'm assuming I need to change it as well?
Thanks,
rpcollum
94 XJ6 4.0 6 cyl
After we buttoned everything up. Car won't crank. Help!
I'm concerned that there is a switch or something not working?
Can anyone tell me what position the button at the fuel cap should be in? In or out.
Also I'm not getting fuel through the pressure regulator either. It comes through the line to it but not through the other side. I'm assuming I need to change it as well?
Thanks,
rpcollum
94 XJ6 4.0 6 cyl
#2
QUOTE "I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter with a friend" QUOTE
Maybe your friend needs to pump harder!!!! (sorry bad joke)
Did you replace the PUMP ASSY??? or just the electric pump??
There is a spring pressure relief valve in the plastic pump module that can fail.
There is also a rubber fitting seal that the pump outlet goes into that fails. It is a grey or light blue seal that can tear and the fuel will just leak back into the pump module rather than go to the engine.
Some people also ATTEMPT to remove the tank with the lines still attached to the underside of the tank. If the lines are damaged, then the fuel may not flow though the supply line to the filter.
If the harness connector is not burnt on the EVAP FLANGE, then I would think it to be one of the things I mentioned.
It is a one man job if the tank is not completely full and you use a car lift to access the lines in the tank bottom. Jaguar Warranty was something like 2 hours, but 4 hours is a little more realistic if you have done several before.
You don't need the tank on the shop floor, just on an angle and dragged partway into the boot.
good luck.
bob gauff
Maybe your friend needs to pump harder!!!! (sorry bad joke)
Did you replace the PUMP ASSY??? or just the electric pump??
There is a spring pressure relief valve in the plastic pump module that can fail.
There is also a rubber fitting seal that the pump outlet goes into that fails. It is a grey or light blue seal that can tear and the fuel will just leak back into the pump module rather than go to the engine.
Some people also ATTEMPT to remove the tank with the lines still attached to the underside of the tank. If the lines are damaged, then the fuel may not flow though the supply line to the filter.
If the harness connector is not burnt on the EVAP FLANGE, then I would think it to be one of the things I mentioned.
It is a one man job if the tank is not completely full and you use a car lift to access the lines in the tank bottom. Jaguar Warranty was something like 2 hours, but 4 hours is a little more realistic if you have done several before.
You don't need the tank on the shop floor, just on an angle and dragged partway into the boot.
good luck.
bob gauff
Last edited by motorcarman; 02-26-2012 at 11:01 AM.
The following users liked this post:
joycesjag (02-27-2012)
#3
#4
There are no individual parts available for the pump module assy. You can buy an aftermarket electric pump, but that is all (except for the mounting rubber).
Jaguar sells a replacement pump module assy and in some cases, you need to buy the EVAP flange to match the updated pump module assy.
I did have a customer that had a failed pump outlet rubber seal and he told me he removed the tank, plastic housing and got some rubber hose or something and repaired the plastic pump module housing lid.
He described the fault and I told him what I thought was the problem. He called back and told me I was correct and that he patched the leak and the car ran fine!!!
I have a BOX of old pump modules and EVAP flanges that I collected from years at the dealer. I sort through the parts and use what I need in cases like this.
People laugh at my 'packrat' pile of parts until they need a good used part instead of the $1400.00 Jaguar replacement.(I am not a HOARDER, I actually sell my parts to my customers)
bob gauff
Jaguar sells a replacement pump module assy and in some cases, you need to buy the EVAP flange to match the updated pump module assy.
I did have a customer that had a failed pump outlet rubber seal and he told me he removed the tank, plastic housing and got some rubber hose or something and repaired the plastic pump module housing lid.
He described the fault and I told him what I thought was the problem. He called back and told me I was correct and that he patched the leak and the car ran fine!!!
I have a BOX of old pump modules and EVAP flanges that I collected from years at the dealer. I sort through the parts and use what I need in cases like this.
People laugh at my 'packrat' pile of parts until they need a good used part instead of the $1400.00 Jaguar replacement.(I am not a HOARDER, I actually sell my parts to my customers)
bob gauff
#5
Ok. Soooo I do feel as though I need a rubber seal. Part of the other one was broken. So yeh that would be good.
I need to know how in steps to reset the fuel pressure switch that you said is in the housing. Cause I don't have any pressure build up in the lines. Fuel does get to the pressure regulator but I don't think it's enough pressure to fill the fuel rail.
Please help?
I need to know how in steps to reset the fuel pressure switch that you said is in the housing. Cause I don't have any pressure build up in the lines. Fuel does get to the pressure regulator but I don't think it's enough pressure to fill the fuel rail.
Please help?
#6
There is no pressure switch in the plastic pump module assy. There is a seal that tears and the fuel leaks before pressure can build.
I have not looked at one for about a year but I think I remember the spring loaded pressure valve is a 'fail-safe' device that dumps fuel if the filter gets totally clogged and the pump is straining.
Take the lid off the pump module and look for torn or broken parts. You might find a good used pump assy and put your new pump in the good case or at least swap lids.
I use air pressure to check the lid for problems before I re-assemble the module lid to the housing.
bob gauff
I have not looked at one for about a year but I think I remember the spring loaded pressure valve is a 'fail-safe' device that dumps fuel if the filter gets totally clogged and the pump is straining.
Take the lid off the pump module and look for torn or broken parts. You might find a good used pump assy and put your new pump in the good case or at least swap lids.
I use air pressure to check the lid for problems before I re-assemble the module lid to the housing.
bob gauff
#7
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#8
Are you getting fuel from the RETURN LINE?????
You have the fuel lines crossed in the tank at the pump module if that is the case.
The fuel needs to come from the supply line and OUT of the regulator on it's way back to the tank.
Fuel should NOT come from the tank TO the regulator.
bob gauff
You have the fuel lines crossed in the tank at the pump module if that is the case.
The fuel needs to come from the supply line and OUT of the regulator on it's way back to the tank.
Fuel should NOT come from the tank TO the regulator.
bob gauff
#9
#10
#11
The fuel should go to the line on the top, rear of the fuel rail and exit from the pressure regulator into the return line back to the tank.
Remove the line from the pressure regulator and see if fuel is coming out.
No fuel from the regulator means not enough pressure to the rail (faulty pump or seals in the tank).
Make sure the injectors are getting a 'pulse' signal to open and close.
bob gauff
Remove the line from the pressure regulator and see if fuel is coming out.
No fuel from the regulator means not enough pressure to the rail (faulty pump or seals in the tank).
Make sure the injectors are getting a 'pulse' signal to open and close.
bob gauff
#12
Ok here is where my issue stands.
I have the fuels done properly. Pump is working as I can here it whilst turning the key
But now I used a little starting fluid and whalla. She crinkly up on first try and died ten seconds later. This has Ben done three times.
Am I wrong but doesn't that mean the starting fluid is just burning up and that's it.
Seems like injectors are just not putting fuel in. What would/could cause that to happen?
Remember I tested old pump after removing and it was bad. So now I'm thinking an electrical problem with the injectors?
I have the fuels done properly. Pump is working as I can here it whilst turning the key
But now I used a little starting fluid and whalla. She crinkly up on first try and died ten seconds later. This has Ben done three times.
Am I wrong but doesn't that mean the starting fluid is just burning up and that's it.
Seems like injectors are just not putting fuel in. What would/could cause that to happen?
Remember I tested old pump after removing and it was bad. So now I'm thinking an electrical problem with the injectors?
#13
There are no individual parts available for the pump module assy. You can buy an aftermarket electric pump, but that is all (except for the mounting rubber).
Jaguar sells a replacement pump module assy and in some cases, you need to buy the EVAP flange to match the updated pump module assy.
I did have a customer that had a failed pump outlet rubber seal and he told me he removed the tank, plastic housing and got some rubber hose or something and repaired the plastic pump module housing lid.
He described the fault and I told him what I thought was the problem. He called back and told me I was correct and that he patched the leak and the car ran fine!!!
I have a BOX of old pump modules and EVAP flanges that I collected from years at the dealer. I sort through the parts and use what I need in cases like this.
People laugh at my 'packrat' pile of parts until they need a good used part instead of the $1400.00 Jaguar replacement.(I am not a HOARDER, I actually sell my parts to my customers)
bob gauff
Jaguar sells a replacement pump module assy and in some cases, you need to buy the EVAP flange to match the updated pump module assy.
I did have a customer that had a failed pump outlet rubber seal and he told me he removed the tank, plastic housing and got some rubber hose or something and repaired the plastic pump module housing lid.
He described the fault and I told him what I thought was the problem. He called back and told me I was correct and that he patched the leak and the car ran fine!!!
I have a BOX of old pump modules and EVAP flanges that I collected from years at the dealer. I sort through the parts and use what I need in cases like this.
People laugh at my 'packrat' pile of parts until they need a good used part instead of the $1400.00 Jaguar replacement.(I am not a HOARDER, I actually sell my parts to my customers)
bob gauff
Last edited by AlphaDogX24; 11-09-2012 at 11:57 PM.
#14
Ok here is where my issue stands.
I have the fuels done properly. Pump is working as I can here it whilst turning the key
But now I used a little starting fluid and whalla. She crinkly up on first try and died ten seconds later. This has Ben done three times.
Am I wrong but doesn't that mean the starting fluid is just burning up and that's it.
Seems like injectors are just not putting fuel in. What would/could cause that to happen?
Remember I tested old pump after removing and it was bad. So now I'm thinking an electrical problem with the injectors?
I have the fuels done properly. Pump is working as I can here it whilst turning the key
But now I used a little starting fluid and whalla. She crinkly up on first try and died ten seconds later. This has Ben done three times.
Am I wrong but doesn't that mean the starting fluid is just burning up and that's it.
Seems like injectors are just not putting fuel in. What would/could cause that to happen?
Remember I tested old pump after removing and it was bad. So now I'm thinking an electrical problem with the injectors?
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