The Gold is here!

We can start the assembly of some parts, I'm very happy.
I'm still confused about the transmission... rebuild or no rebuild... yahhh!!
Oh! and I took the flywheel apart to change the engine rear seal... omg, It is a ton of work. The seal has is in two parts?

Debbie

 

I have never seen a rear main seal that wasn't in two parts. *Usually* this requires disassembly of the entire engine since the crank has to come out of the main bearings in order to change the seal.

Unless people plan on a total rebuild anyway, they simply put a pan under the engine to catch the drips and add oil as required.
(';')

 

OMG! I hate that! I need to find a better plan... or just do it. If I see a drop of oil in my engines ... I can't sleep at night... Plus, now I have the engine sitting on the floor, so it's the time.

Confirmed. It is in two parts.



Plus now I found this link, which recommends the NAPA part No JV-730.
Rear Main Seal
Please help is welcome!

Debbie

 

Late SBC's use a one piece rear main seal. I've forgotten just how that works and hope to not need to relearn it!!


Debbie:


Tisn't that big a deal. Get a big tin drip pan from the parts place and put it under where the car is. Old cardboard works as well. just discard when really oily.


And, just a weep might be built in. The seal needs a lubricant, if assembled dry or run dry it will fail and leak like all h...


Some tech told me the AC compressor in my 85 Ford F150 was failing as it leaked oil
Odd, oil cooled great.


I examined it carefully and did some research. Yup, a tiny wick protruded. allowing just a weep . Lube, of course.


Way back when, a friend's really unique 55 Ford 3/4 ton pickup was leaking from the rear main. He had recently bought it. Not a biggie. Lottsa work room under it. I was far more supple then!!


Dropped the pan and removed the bottom of the two piece seal. Oh, oh, not good. Dropped the rear main cap. Severely scored crank. It will never seal. Well I put the new seal in anyway. What else. Odd, it held for a while. Another guy pulled it and fixed it with a crank kit. Reground crank and bearings.


That was a weakness of that otherwise very tough engine.


Carl

 

Or be friendly with your body person (I am... 2 Lotus Europas and lot of other customers sent to him after winning multiple concours in 4 years....)

 

Debbie: you're my new hero. That looks great, and POR15 is a great choice (I work near their factory in NJ...so pick stuff up from time to time direct at the door...).

You've inspired me to attack some surface rust on the bottom of my XJ8...

 

I'm just making an update of the parts detail. Emma touching up the new EGR valves. This XJ12 have a ton of parts.

 

Steering pump rebuild and paint. It's ready to install.

Please, I would like to see your pictures of a transmission (BW Model 12) rebuild and rear engine crankshaft tips. THANKS!!!

Debbie

 

Nice job on the PS pump, I did mine recently but just stripped it and fitted the new kit because I wanted to drive it that day. You have the luxury of having your car in pieces so there is time to paint everything while it is out.

 

EGR's on that "experienced", thought that came much later on domestic cars???


The flex plate and torque converter look way too neat to bury in the internal cavities!!!!


The PS pump is the familiar Saginaw by GM that was found in a lot of places. tough as nails, but if a replacement is needed, readily available, in rebuild nowadays.


Carl

 

Hi, do you guys know if the steering rack should be black or bare aluminum? My was painted black but maybe it just was a bad job from somebody else.
Steering column gold or clear zinc?
Thanks, Debbie

 

Hi Debbie! The steering rack should be black. The steering shaft I think should be clear zinc - but I'm not sure about that one.
BTW those cadmium plated parts and restored PS pump look fantastic.

 

Yup! We working for Christmas too.
Here Emma and a Nasser (co-worker and a very good friend) helping with the panel fitting and gap adjustment. Honestly the panels were very bad fitted. I don't know if its a Jaguar generic problem but mine was pretty bad. It's amazing the amount of hours you could spend in order to adjust them.

 

Engine on the stand, ready to open and change the rear oil seal (this thing made me think about it... -NOOOO my father showed me that always I should be stronger than the engine. No lazy time! This oil seal is older than me and I should be replaced.
The vacuum unit on the transmission in on the specs without leaks. I'm going to reuse it.
The transmission. I didn't rebuild it. just front and rear seals and new fluid of course.

Debbie.

 

Nice! What was done to the transmission? Cleaned? Painted?

 

As I said. I didn't rebuild it. I've just changed front and rear seals, new fluid and filter of course.

 

Hi Guys,

The rear main seal is out! time to check bearings.

 

I've checked all thermo switches and senders. All 7 solenoids work perfect. Some of the specs are in the The Haynes book (not all of them).

 

Help is welcome!

Since I saw this update in the Haynes book. What do you guys think?
I should buy the rubber 'hockey sticks' or use silicone? which product do you recommend me?

Debbie

 

Ok, I've just get the real seal. Both the fiber one (original) and the rubber ( Ford and it is very similar)...
After look at them for more than an hour ... I'm thinking to install the original type one. The rubber one is too big and I have to cut it. So, I'm not sure...

cross your fingers!!

Debbie