1985 xj6
#21
Car looks great! Thanks for sharing.
I found you this morning, while looking for info about removing the front and rear glass. I have an '86, black, grey inside; not apparently rusted yet, but the paint is shot, so it will only be a 50-footer until it is repainted. I will keep it dry until I can complete the mechanical bits. I know it does not leak any, at least. I hate to let a decent car go down, and it really drives good, so I am starting with a car which is not worn out. Seeing your car gives me needed encouragement.
I found you this morning, while looking for info about removing the front and rear glass. I have an '86, black, grey inside; not apparently rusted yet, but the paint is shot, so it will only be a 50-footer until it is repainted. I will keep it dry until I can complete the mechanical bits. I know it does not leak any, at least. I hate to let a decent car go down, and it really drives good, so I am starting with a car which is not worn out. Seeing your car gives me needed encouragement.
#22
Wascator< If you need help in removing the glass, let me know. I can post a step by step procedure for removing the front and rear glass for any layman who is good with a sharp blade and has a lot of patience. I purchased the new seals to see what they looked like before I attempted to remove mine.
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Wascator (06-03-2013)
#24
#25
I would also like more info about your repaint. My car is black; paint is really bad on horizontal surfaces mostly sun damage.
Did you use any special products to try to prevent rust in the window frames?
It seems like the removal of the top layer of paint would preserve all the OEM prep underneath; Is it necessary to remove it to bare steel and start over? I would like may car to have a beautiful black paint job, but I have to be a little realistic about the cost as well. I am also interested in the brand of paint you used; if you flatted, etc.
Did you use any special products to try to prevent rust in the window frames?
It seems like the removal of the top layer of paint would preserve all the OEM prep underneath; Is it necessary to remove it to bare steel and start over? I would like may car to have a beautiful black paint job, but I have to be a little realistic about the cost as well. I am also interested in the brand of paint you used; if you flatted, etc.
#26
I've heard over and over while surfing this forum that it is best to get all the way down to the bare metal, although, that is just what I've heard, I've never done it personally, anyways, I still say if you are going to do something do it right that way you only have to do it once. doing something the hard but "better" way is often much cheaper than doing it wrong and having to do it over.
#27
That all depends on what you find as you begin to sand the car. If its only the clear coat, there is no need to go all the way down to metal. In my case I had pinholes that went all the way to the metal so I had no choice. My advice is to find the worst spot and sand it to see where the problem originates, then go from there. Sanding is dirty, dusty work if you have a lot to do. I opted for aircraft paint remover. With this once you start there is no turning back. The decision on what to do depends on how nice you want the car to look and for how long.......
#28
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baskervillema
XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 )
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10-01-2015 06:43 PM
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