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1986 XJ6 Electric failure

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Old 07-01-2011, 02:55 PM
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Default 1986 XJ6 Electric failure

Hello everyone, I have a Jaguar XJ6 and I've owned it for around two months. I'm 16 years old and this is my first car. It's a beautiful car and drives like none other. The only thing about it is almost all of the electrical components recently quit working. When I bought the car, the sunroof didn't work. However, the windows all worked, the power door locks worked, the wipers worked, and the A/C worked but didn't blow cold. Somehow the sunroof came back and worked perfectly, but shortly after that, everything quit. Now I have two windows that work(passenger and rear behind the driver), the brake lights and turn signals also quit, but I rewired them myself and they now work. My father is a licensed electrician and we are unable to find the problem.

If anyone knows of any way I can possibly fix these problems, please inform me. I have read that the '86 model XJ6's are known for electrical failures, however, I was unable to find information on resolving the problem anywhere else. Thanks in advance.

Derek
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 03:38 PM
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First place to start on the windows and sunroof is the switches. Remove them and carefully pry them open (watch for little parts that pop out) and clean the contacts. Most often this is all that's required to bring everything back to life.

Door locks: check the inline fuse on the rh side component panel...below the small fuse box. Also, lubricating the lock linkages often brings dead locks back to life.

If the a/c lowers fans don't work check the fuses in the rh fuse box AND the inline fuse clipped to the right side of the heater casing. You'll have to remove the rh side underdash panel and the console "cheek" panel for access. The system has two other fuses but check these two first.

I should add taht "checking fuses" on these cars doesn't just mean checking if they are blown. It also means cleaning the steel end caps and the clips they snap into or, in the case if the inline fuses, the contact buttons inside the fuse holders.

The vast majority of electrical problems on these cars are causing by poor/dirty/weak connections and grounds.

Post back if more details are needed on any of the above.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 04:51 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply, Doug. I'll try this as soon as I am able to. I read that to clean electrical contacts you can use Isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle, is this true?
Also, you said that I should lubricate the lock linkages. What lubricant should I use? Is WD-40 adequate?

Derek
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Derekisamazing
Thanks for the quick reply, Doug. I'll try this as soon as I am able to. I read that to clean electrical contacts you can use Isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle, is this true?
Also, you said that I should lubricate the lock linkages. What lubricant should I use? Is WD-40 adequate?

Derek
For the contacts in the switches use a pencil eraser. For fuese, fuse clips, and such I use fine sandpaper, a small wire brush....whatever I can get my hands on at the moment :-). For small sockets and pins connectors use aerosol electrical contact cleaner.

Locks: WD40 is a great (mild) solvent and water dispersant but it isn't actually a lubricant. Go to the parts store and select whatever aerosol *lubricant* suits your fancy. After removing the door trims give *all* of the moving lock parts a good spray....inside the latch mechanism, the lock rods, the handle pivots...everything.

The lock rods slide thru little plastic guides on the door...you'll see 'em. Use a dab of grease (or even vaseline) on the slides.

If your power windows drag this would be a good time to lube the felt channels with aerosol silicone. Use a few dabs of grease on the roller wheel at the bottom of the glass. Use your aerosol lube on the other parts of the window winding mechanism.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:09 PM
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Thanks for the help.

So far, I have good news and bad news. The good news is that I got the sunroof and the windows working, with the exception of one window. I'm assuming that's the switch that needs replacement? I haven't yet got to the door locks or A/C.

The bad news, I forgot to mention that previously only two of the headlights would work, and only the "bright" headlights. However, I cleaned all of the contacts I could find that connected to the headlights, and now all four headlights work but only when I use the "bright" setting. Without using the brights, none work.

Even worse, I decided to take the car for a quick ride around the neighborhood, and when I took my first right turn, I heard a loud thump. The car may have stalled, but it kept going. I proceeded with the ride, and just as I was coming home, I did a left turn and the same thump occurred, except, this time the car stalled and shut off. Now it won't start. The engine turns over but it won't stay going. Any ideas?

Derek
 
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:03 AM
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Update:

After some scrutiny of the engine, I found that a hose was disconnected. I reconnected it, tightened and secured it and the Jag started right up. However, that still doesn't solve the problem with the loud thumps when turning. The lower side of my wheels are tilted outward and my father inferred it was the ball joints that needed replacement. Could this be true? If so, where would be best to purchase these ball joints from and how much do they cost?
 

Last edited by Derekisamazing; 07-02-2011 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Derekisamazing
Update:

After some scrutiny of the engine, I found that a hose was disconnected. I reconnected it, tightened and secured it and the Jag started right up. However, that still doesn't solve the problem with the loud thumps when turning. The lower side of my wheels are tilted outward and my father inferred it was the ball joints that needed replacement. Could this be true? If so, where would be best to purchase these ball joints from and how much do they cost?

It does sound like a broken ball joint.

Try Coventry West, Motorcars Limited, Welsh Jaguar....or any number of other Jag suppliers. Lots of good ones. Or even Ebay. Or Rock Auto. Just Google "Jaguar ball joints".

Replacing ball joints is a project. Risk of injury is involved. Do you plan on doing this yourself?

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Derekisamazing
The bad news, I forgot to mention that previously only two of the headlights would work, and only the "bright" headlights. However, I cleaned all of the contacts I could find that connected to the headlights, and now all four headlights work but only when I use the "bright" setting. Without using the brights, none work.

Try this, report back !
Headlamp Circuit Checklist

I could be that both of the low-beam filaments are burned out but go thru the checklist anyway....



Cheers
DD
 
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Old 07-02-2011, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug
Replacing ball joints is a project. Risk of injury is involved. Do you plan on doing this yourself?
Well, because I can't afford to take the car to a shop at the moment, I was going to attempt it with the help of a family member who is mechanically inclined.

Originally Posted by Doug
Locks: WD40 is a great (mild) solvent and water dispersant but it isn't actually a lubricant. Go to the parts store and select whatever aerosol *lubricant* suits your fancy. After removing the door trims give *all* of the moving lock parts a good spray....inside the latch mechanism, the lock rods, the handle pivots...everything.

The lock rods slide thru little plastic guides on the door...you'll see 'em. Use a dab of grease (or even vaseline) on the slides.

If your power windows drag this would be a good time to lube the felt channels with aerosol silicone. Use a few dabs of grease on the roller wheel at the bottom of the glass. Use your aerosol lube on the other parts of the window winding mechanism.
Okay, I found the plastic guides that control the lock mechanism. The upper rod seems to pop out of the upper guide upon use. I don't know if that affects the door opening or the locks, but I'm sure it isn't good..

You said to use a few dabs of grease on the roller wheel, I'm not sure if you meant only the one under the window, but I used a multi-purpose spray lubricant (Here) on all of the rollers and tracks, and now the window gets stuck halfway up..



Edit: The window was getting stuck because it actually comes out of the felt channel. Once I popped it back into the channel, it went up just fine. However, if I lower the window completely, it comes out of the felt chanel again and requires me to put it back into place. I also must add that before today, the window was actually out of the track. I opened the panels up and looked inside of the door. After a few hours of tedious and frustrating efforts, I got the window back onto the track and mobile again, could it be that I put the window mechanism back together incorrectly?

Sorry if I'm being a nuisance with all of these problems haha.
 

Last edited by Derekisamazing; 07-02-2011 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Derekisamazing
Well, because I can't afford to take the car to a shop at the moment, I was going to attempt it with the help of a family member who is mechanically inclined.

Ok, good !



Okay, I found the plastic guides that control the lock mechanism. The upper rod seems to pop out of the upper guide upon use. I don't know if that affects the door opening or the locks, but I'm sure it isn't good..


I can't remember exactly where the upper rod goes. Perhaps to the inside door handle. You can probably get a new guide #BD44214.




You said to use a few dabs of grease on the roller wheel, I'm not sure if you meant only the one under the window, but I used a multi-purpose spray lubricant (Here) on all of the rollers and tracks,


Good!


and now the window gets stuck halfway up..

Bad ! ;-)





Edit: The window was getting stuck because it actually comes out of the felt channel. Once I popped it back into the channel, it went up just fine. However, if I lower the window completely, it comes out of the felt chanel again and requires me to put it back into place. I also must add that before today, the window was actually out of the track. I opened the panels up and looked inside of the door. After a few hours of tedious and frustrating efforts, I got the window back onto the track and mobile again, could it be that I put the window mechanism back together incorrectly?


Possibly. Compare it to the other side, perhaps. It's been a couple years since I did window work on a Ser III but it IS a bit tricky getting every situated properly. There was one bracket I kept putting on backwards.....can't remember the details with seeing it all in front of me though, sorry.



Sorry if I'm being a nuisance with all of these problems haha.


No apology needed, no nuisance.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 07-04-2011, 07:15 AM
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If you are going to tackle the ball joints yourself it can be a DIY project. I did mine last fall and wrote up a thread on the process. Do a search and you should find it. It will take you about 2 hrs per side (at the most). Parts were about $150 - $200 if memory serves me right. You will not believe how much better the car handles once you have new ball joints. I would also suggest new tie rods while you are under there. They are cheap and easy to install.

Beware-- rear brake job is the holy grail of DIY projects on this car. Many have gone to the boneyard once this needed to be done. However, it can be done and is not all that difficult but it is time consuming.
 
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Old 07-08-2011, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sneal46
If you are going to tackle the bUpall joints yourself it can be a DIY project. I did mine last fall and wrote up a thread on the process. Do a search and you should find it. It will take you about 2 hrs per side (at the most). Parts were about $150 - $200 if memory serves me right. You will not believe how much better the car handles once you have new ball joints. I would also suggest new tie rods while you are under there. They are cheap and easy to install.

Beware-- rear brake job is the holy grail of DIY projects on this car. Many have gone to the boneyard once this needed to be done. However, it can be done and is not all that difficult but it is time consuming.
I wasn't able to find the thread you posted, could you give me the link please?


Update:

All of my work on the XJ6 has been slowed dramatically due to a constant downpour of rain we've been having. But today I managed to get the headlights working properly in the bright setting and normal setting. It was those damned fuses again haha.

However, it's still raining constantly for some reason and I have no wipers! I'm going to buy some Rain-X water repellent for the time being, but where can I find the areas with the electrical connections that may need to be cleaned? And if cleaning the electrical connections doesn't fix the wipers, what part would I need to buy to fix this?
 
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