Hi Guys,

Filled up right tank last week, and noticed faint gas smell in garage since, yesterday saw a small amount of raw gas on the ground directly under the tank, the black circular plastic drain cover was slightly damp.

What are the chances this is merely overfill Vs. needing to replace the tank, and is there a way to determine this w/o dropping the whole tank?

Thanks

 

Have you drive the car much since filling the right tank? And I presume you are running on the left tank, yes?

One possibility is that fuel is being drawn from the left tank but being returned to the right tank....which could indeed create an overflow situation with the right tank if it was already full or nearly full.

With the engine running open the gas caps and use a long screwdriver to open the spring loaded flapper in the filler neck. Use a flashlight to peek inside the neck. If the left tank is selected you should see a small stream of fuel going into the left tank, and vice-versa for the right tank. If the left tank is selected but you see a stream in the right tank, there's your problem.

That said, leaky gas tanks are more and more common as these cars age....almost always due to rusting-out....which is most likely to occurs when the car is unused for long periods, allowing condensation to develop in the tanks.

You can remove the tank cover for inspection (not the easiest chore as the bumper blade needs to be removed) but you'll only see the bottom of the tank....which may or may not reveal the source of a leak

There are also hoses that could be leaking...with the drips falling down to (and dripping out of) the area of the plastic access hole covers.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks, Doug.

I've been driving on the right tank, the left one is empty. Chance I'm seeing and smelling just the overflow?

 

in my experience with my 1984 XJ-6, it is always the right (passenger side) tank that leaks. Passenger side assuming your car is Left Hand Drive (LHD).

if your car has the original drain bolt hole covers, you have to push them aside to get to the drain bolt, then getting them back on is impossible because they are on the inside of the tank cover panel and there is a lip that they slip into that is in the way.

Best to do it right and remove the bumper blade section, then the tank cover panel, not an easy job and chances are the bolts welded to the bumper blade section will break while trying to remove the nuts, so soak them in a product called "Numb Nuts" for a few days before you even trying to loosen them or you will remember what I said.

if you have the factory service manual, follow the step by step instructions. Only then can you see if the tank is leaking. Throwing new parts at the problem is a waste of money and just guessing rarely fixes it.

 

Unless you recently overfilled the tank there should be no overflow

Cheers
DD

 

Jose:


Mine are gone. Probably needlessly so!! I pried them out to drain the tanks of old gas, so as to protect the LT1's injectors.


Although, there are substitutes, I opted to leave them open. Water any crud that may enter, can leave in the same way. I live in a moderate clime and dirt roads are a rarity. So, OK here. Elsewhere, not nearly so much.


Carl

 

Carl, just spray some Wasp / Insect exterminator in there, to keep the critters from moving in and nesting.

 

Is there room in there to use a borescope to have a look around? These have become very affordable now and are a very handy item. Ive used one I got as a gift to check for the extent of burnt wiring, getting numbers of belts easily without having to remove them, peering into hard to reach points under the dash etc.

 

sure, but what do you expect to see?

the best access is through the Sender/Float hole, at the back of the tank in the Series 3 (1979-1992), and after the tank is empty.

Remove the tail lights assembly and you will see the Sender, but you need to use a Brass punch to turn it counter-clockwise for removal, otherwise you could cause a spark with a steel tool and BOOM !! ( even if empty, there are fuel vapors in there ).

 

Jose:


No fear of critters in those bays. If I drove on unpaved roads, "crud" might find it's way in. And as for water, if it gets in, provide a way out. I've done that.


Carl

 

I had no room to beat a punch, Jose, so I made a tool that required no hammering:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...g-unit-166388/
(';')

 

Possibly the starting point of a corrosion leak, or some trail of dampness, as the OP hadnt yet identified where it was coming from and didnt seem to enthused about pulling things apart. Just a thought.

 

Elinor I had not seen your reply, but the idea is great, though one would not use it every month!

if you can make a tool like that, you can make one for the radio panel nuts?

Happy New Year!

 

Thank you, Jose,
No, one would not need such a tool very often, but Boy Howdy is it worth the trouble of making it when ya do!

As for radio nuts, I just twist them off with bent needle nose pliers spread across the shaft.

Works like a charm, especially if they've been off before.
(';')

 

Hi Jose & Elinor . . . great to see this innovation of special tools for special occasions. On any XK, I would also value the following - some previously available as Jaguar spare parts, or dimensions provided in workshop manuals to enable local fabrication -

• the camshaft valve timing plate;
• top timing chain tensioner tool;
• collection of valve stem shims;
• steel bushing to set rear crankshaft oil seal;
• gearbox input shaft to centre clutch assy.

And, my personal favourites -

• trained snakes to access hidden nuts and bolts;
• young children to hold things you can't reach;
• inexhaustible bank balance and good sense of humour.

Cheers,

Ken

 

Tools, either store bought or made by hand have fascinated me since the beginning. Circa 1946. It was then, that I invested in a simple socket set and drives.
A rachet wrench included. T mentor and pal, Billy was fascinated. A "click click" wrench!!! 1/2" drive. A couple of sockets may have survived and repose in my "mixed" brand set of 1/2"ers. Other stuff lost in the sands of time. Some literally!!!


I've an older box with lids that flap open. I "restified" it. Functions, but rust only arrested and future rust deterred. Badge of honor, so to speak. it includes some neat
old wood working tools. Similarly revived to functional, but not pristine, status. Includes a Yankee drill!!! A spoke shave, brace, etc.


My "tune up" box includes a device to clean the internal part of distributor post.
A bent piece of clothes hanger wire to snare a bit of emery cloth.


A short piece of rubber, open one end and a bolt in the other. Reaches "down under" spark plugs in SBC's and the like. It goes where fat clumsy fingers fail. Don't cross thread the spark plug hole!!!!


And, a couple of wire vices to hold electric wires in position for a proper solder job.
One with wood clothes line pins. Dear departed did not note the loss or chose not to.
And, a couple of alligator clips on a bent clothes hanger.


And, the most glorious: My "bash bench". A base from a defunct table saw. It in turn fastened to a square with casters, ala mover's dolly. Added some strap and secured bolted joints by a long departed stick welder. Top side. A sizable chunk of "I" beam.
Flat surface to beat things. Holes to secure work to be welded. A place to clamp a small vise for welding "little" stuff. And, I 'rescued" a power head from a defunct radial saw. In lieu of the blade, I attached a "hefty" wire wheel. It lives in the space below. But, when needed, a collection of "C" clamps is available to secure it to the "I'
beam section. Much serious rust removal on big parts was done there.


And, a chunk of RR track. Flame cut to resemble a Black smith's anvil.


The thing is scruffy, but oh, so functional.


HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!!


Carl

 

most of my tools are from the mid 1960's to early 1970's, I confiscated them from my brother who owed me money for a stereo system. I even confiscated the case. An eye for an eye.

Still use them today, sure I have purchased new tools but the bulk of them are oldies.

Elinor, the idea of using the needlenose pliers is good but I dream of something more positive, less prone to slipping, like a socket with a 1/4" shaft hole.

Carl: if I can lock and unlock all the door and trunk lid locks in my Ford, why can't I unlock the trunk lock in my XJ-6 ?? I can lock it when locking the driver's door but I cannot unlock it the same way. There must be an answer to this puzzle...

I hope you all have a great new year 2017.

 

(light bulb moment)
You mentioned RADIO NUTS and I pictured CLIMATE CONTROL nuts!
Duh.

Nix had an aftermarket Clarion which came out when side locks were released with a special tool. No radio nuts in the car.
(';')

 

Two more:


1. Back in my playing with car radio installs, I came across the tools Elinor describes. Feeler guage like strips to slide along the side of the radio chassis and release the clips. Or something like a slim Jim. I think I have a pair in one of my boxes.


2. A decade or so back, I bought a "security" set of bits and pieces at HF. It includes one or two small sockets with pins to engage those little holes in the radio bezela.


Gotta look and see if it contains short TORX 1/4 drive sockets. The "simple" task of replacing the hatch struts in my Jeep has become a project!!!


3. Jose: Search for Dr. Gregory Andrachuk's "JAGCARE II". A marvelous tome written with the involvement of Doug Dwyer. I think it describes the minor alteration to make the lock link work in both directions, lock and unlock!! I merely use the key???


Carl

 

When I *Finally* got my radio loose with the help of a local stereo installation shop (I Hate a radio in a car, it's SO distracting I can't hear what's going on!) I flattened the catches on an anvil so that I could easily remove it later without need for the special tool. Now the only function it serves is to plug the hole in the upper console.
(';')