'86 Grease Fittings' Thread

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Jun 17, 2013 | 07:33 AM
  #1  
I need to replace at least one; are the threads metric or English or?
I realized this morning I am not certain what to buy.
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Jun 17, 2013 | 07:50 AM
  #2  
There's *very little* metric anything on a Ser III. Maybe a couple of the brake caliper fittings?

And I recall that the two "+" junction studs on the the firewall are the old Whitworth sizes.

But, anyhow, I really doubt the grease nipples ae metric...but I actually don't know that for a fact.

Cheers
DD
Reply 1
Jun 17, 2013 | 08:08 AM
  #3  
I agree with Doug.

My findings are as follows:

The rear half shaft joints are 1/4UNF, and are what is known as "long".
The rear inner pivots are the same thread, and short straight style.
The outer pivot also 1/4UNF, and short straight.

The front end ORIGINALLY was also 1/4UNF, and a combination of straight and 45deg. However with balljoint replacement, the lowers maybe have no grease points, and the tops may be metric, depending on where the replacement joints were made.

Same goes for the 2 tie rod ends. Originally 1/4UNF, and short style.

The 2 in the front hubs are also 1/4UNF and short straight.

The steering rack pinion end is the same as the front hubs.

Prop shaft, if fitted would be imperial, but no idea of size, but I would bet 1/4UNF.

Hope that helps, as I dont know which one you broke??.
Reply 2
Jun 17, 2013 | 08:48 AM
  #4  
The broken fitting is on the left-rear outer hub support pivot; it was cracked in the threads.
Incidentally: I haven't yet got any grease in either of the lower front ball joints; either the end of my grease gun is too long, or whatever, but there is too much in the way. I'm going to get her higher in the air and attack again.
The upper ball joints do not seem to have fittings, or at least I did not see them. I have spoken too soon before...

Thanks for the help everyone!
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Jun 17, 2013 | 09:02 AM
  #5  
The upper b/joints might've already been replaced with the type that doesn't have a nipple.

The original b/joints were fascinating. They could be fully disassembled and used shims which, I guess, would allow compensation for wear. I can't imagine anyone going thru the effort!

Perhaps your Rolls has the same?

Anyhow, its a virtually universal practice to replace the original style with the later one-piece design

Cheers
DD
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Jun 17, 2013 | 10:13 AM
  #6  
When I buyilt my roadster, the project before the Jaguar, I bought a box of various Zerks via HF. I used them in my Ford Hot rod. I had plenty left. so, I used more for the Jaguar.

I vaguely remember that the rear U joint flange nuts and bolts were Whitworth!! Oddly, I have two Whitworth wrenches in my collection. Amazingly, one was the right size!!!
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Jun 17, 2013 | 02:46 PM
  #7  
The Rolls-Royce does have repairable, rebuildable ball joints.
Whitworth, various British fasteners abound on the R-R as well. A buddy who gave up on British motorcycles gave me all his wrenches and a hearty "Good luck! I'm through!"
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Jun 29, 2013 | 08:19 AM
  #8  
nipple locations
Hi, Does anyone have a road map of where all these grease fittings are. I'm sure mine's due for a once over, Also I bought a grease gun with a flexible neck but is the fitting on the grease gun typical to the Jag nipples?
Thanks
Jeff
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Jun 29, 2013 | 09:24 AM
  #9  
Quote: Hi, Does anyone have a road map of where all these grease fittings are. I'm sure mine's due for a once over, Also I bought a grease gun with a flexible neck but is the fitting on the grease gun typical to the Jag nipples?
Thanks
Jeff
Here goes:

Rear end:

Outer pivot pins, 2, as in 1 each side on the bottom casting.
Half shaft joints, 1 each joint = 4.
Inner pivot pins, 1 at each pivot = 4.
Uni joints on the prop shaft. These may or may not be there, as some replacement joints have no nipple (sealed for life?)
Sliding spline on the prop shaft =1. This may require removing the heat shield to get to. I used a hole saw once that sheild was off, and cut an access hole on all the S2 cars.

Front end:

Lower balljoints = 2, IF the OE joints are still fitted. If the newer style joints = 0.
Upper balljoints = 2, again IF the O joints. Some replacement have nipples, some do not.
Tie rod ends = 2, again IF fitted.
Steering rack = 1. There is maybe a plug in that point, as TOOOOOO much grease in here can cause rack breathing issues.
Front hubs = 2.

The rear hubs require greasing, and that "tin cap" on the top side of the hub casting is removed for doing this task, as in NO nipple, put the gun end in the exposed hole and fill her. Clean the gunge off prior to removing that cap.

I believe that any grease gun end these days fits the nipples in our cars, as they are not special. Some grease nipples in the '40's and '50's were different from memory?, on some British cars.
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Jun 29, 2013 | 01:46 PM
  #10  
Thank you
This is very helpful
Jeff
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