I read a few “How to's” and here is my “How I did it”.
The Bonnet
Opened the bonnet and disconnected the battery.
Placed covers (couple of gloves) over the bonnet latches and tied back the bonnet hook, so it would not accidentally close.
Stuffed a cover between the bumper and the bonnet.
Disconnected the wiring to the lights both sides.
Looked around the bonnet hinge and squirted WD40 on all the bolts and nuts.
Removed the grill nuts and grill.
Slacked of the six bonnet mounting bolts.
Had a helper to hold the bonnet open while:
I unhooked the return springs with a piece of rope through the hook on the top end of the spring and lifted the spring so it released. Then unhooked the spring completely and just hung it back on the top hook for storage.
Unbolted the bonnet stay and the six bonnet mounting bolts.
Lifted out the bonnet carefully.
The Radiator
Could not find a drain plug, so I loosened the bottom hose clamp and just let the coolant drip out into a pan.
Unclipped the wiring across the top radiator mounting bracket and moved the wires out of the way.
Unbolted the ac drier and let it lean forward.
Unbolted the fan shroud (top and bottom) and even loosened the bottom brackets.
Unbolted the top mounting bracket and removed it completely.
Disconnected the temperature sensor wires.


By now all the coolant was drained (all 4 gallons) and multiple pans dumped into a bucket.
Disconnected the main hoses on the radiator.
Disconnected the hoses to the overflow tank (two on top and one at the bottom) but left the lower hose on the radiator. Also, disconnect the small hose on the other side to the manifold.


And the pulling and wiggling began. Little by little, up one side then the other, it finally came out.
The old radiator top rail was badly corroded and was leaking badly.
Around the radiator there is a foam seal which was destroyed on the top and the bottom.


I found a piece of half inch pipe insulation left over from another project and use that across the top and bottom. Measured the distance between the radiator lower locating pins and cut my pipe insulation to fit in between and dropped that in position.
Removed the hoses still on the old radiator, the temperature sensor and transferred them to the new one.


Then wiggled the new radiator in to position.
Connected the temperature sensor.


Poked and prodded the bottom pipe insulation into final position under the radiator and gave it a final push down.
Pushed the original foam into position on the sides.
Cut another piece of pipe insulation to length and then cut it in half lengthwise to fit on top of the radiator.
Fitted the top mounting bracket and bolted that into position.
Then put it all back together again.


Notes:
There was not a drain plug on theradiator.
The new radiator has plastic sides andthe temperature sensor had an O ring which I discarded and used silicone blue to seal it.
The new radiator did not allow me to pass the round air intake tube through, so I shortened it and made the end more triangular to fit.

 

When i had the head off of mine i pulled rad to flush it, i was able.to remove rad without removing hood, i just removed the bolt in the arm thing that would be considered the hood stop. Hood opens to almost vertical, i would use caution however doing this outside where wind may catch it.

 

X2. I removed my radiator the way Darrenmb did his. No need to remove the hood completely. Just resolved?? my overheating issue, using advice from Doug. Installed thermostat. See my post (1985 XJ6)

 

When messing with my car's bonnet, I eliminated the stay altogether. Interesting little "monkey motion" device. It allow the bonnet to open further and make access to the engine compartment easier. but, a gust of wind can whack one across the neck!!
I use a prop. One of my Weed whackers came with a two piece leg. Ugh, little two cycle whirrs, cutting head does zip. Internal stripped joint. Off with t and on with a one piece from a defunct Whacker. OK, all is well. point. the lower drive pipe is a perfect Jaguar bonnett prop.


Recycle or is it repurpose at it's best.


Carl

 

Old thread, but couldn’t resist adding something. “J.C.”, don’t want to spell full name because I don’t know if it’s proper, was selling a “Bonet Stay” on EBAY.
I purchased it and OMG, it’s a godsend. 50% increased opening and a full-hand sized screw mechanism which holds it steady. I looked on EBAY and it’s no longer for sale. Maybe “He” will see my post and jump in with updated info. Works flawlessly, took me 15 minutes to install and you can just paint it to desired color. Picture of former EBAY posting below.

 

This guy I think

Youtube with demo and specs

 

Exactly. Jeff C. designed and manufactured that device. I can’t imagine that anyone could have negative criticisms of it, it’s not color coded, BUT it does blend right in with the cam cover’s black n’ silver. My European Car mechanic had ‘his’ observation though. “Hey, what is that thing you connected to your hood?”, I replied, “it’s an adjustable hood stay”, he countered “well, yeah, I just undo the bolts and fully open the hood on mine”. Purist😩😆
Now THIS is an OPEN hood….

 

Hi, I'm Jeff C the guy that designed it but a fellow member, David84XJ6 actually had them manufactured and sold them. As of April this year he still had a couple left if anyone wants one. I was amused by your mechanic’s remark, that’s what I used to do but my driveway has some incline and a gust of wind blew the bonnet down and whacked me a good one. That’s what inspired me to try to come up with a better solution.

Jeff

 

KUDO’S, Jeff C. and David84xj6. We have all probably ‘thought’ about the design, but you got up and DID IT! I and my 250lb body and huge hands are truly thankful👍🏽………oh, and no slight intended towards the excellent engineer’s in the UK from my use of the phrase, hood. I’m one of those, ‘when in America, do as….’ well you know the rest. Plus, a bonnet is what my wife wears to bed at night and the application of the word always confuses me.

 

I rid my car of that little "monkey motion" device. Aye, watch out when looking in the bay when it is windy..

 

Yes the kits are sold out, but I still have some machined links and if you live near an ACE hardware store they have all the piece parts.
If you are interested, PM me and I will let you know the options.
Rgds
David