Is there a download that shows how to take radiator out?
Would also like to find a download that shows the motor and all parts.
Took radiator caps off both sides the inlet walls were coated with gunk,trash,s--t,whatever about 1/8" thick. I want to take radiator out and have cleaned.
How would a person clean the water ports in the motor? do you take the thermostats out to drain motor?
Thank you for any help.

 

Rad removal, this is what I did, anyway, on my 1985:

1. Remove hood (optional, but IMO much easier job with it removed). Unbolt hinges which are behind the grille, grille just unscrews. Undo rams, and lift off with aid of helper.
2. Unbolt the clips holding bits of loom and the fan shroud to the rad-top cross member. Push loom carefully back towards engine.
3. Unbolt the large clips that go round the aircon dryer and cross brace tube from the rad top cross member, move clips out of the way.
4. Unbolt the thin radiator airbleed pipe that goes across the rad top cross member from the RHS radiator top. This is held by a brass banjo bolt with spacers and copper washers, so do it carefully and note the order etc.
5. Undo the three rubber water pipes that attach to this bleed tube and detatch them (one joins the central filler neck, two on the LHS) note which goes where.
6. Unbolt rad-top cross member (two bolts each side on headlight nacelle tops, one of which carries an earth wire each side) and pull it off the radiator.
7. If the radiator has a drain plug (RHS bottom) drain the rad.
8. Undo the two top hoses and pull them off the radiator
9. Undo the bottom hose (if no drain plug, this will drain the rad fast!). Not easy to undo this hose. Also undo the small hose joining the rad bottom (come from the heater).
10. You might have to push the top of the fan shroud back to the engine a bit, but in principle, the radiator will now pull upwards and out.

The rad is located on four large rubber pads (two at the bottom on the bottom cross member, two on the top cross member). Pegs on the rad just poke into these pads.


While the rad is out, clean all the rubbish from between the rad and the oil cooler and aircon condenser radiators. Also, VERY important, check the bottom radiator cross member for rust. This item is a notorious weak spot, and is basically invisible if the rad and the undertray are both in position. If it is corroded badly, weld/ replace as needed, and slather it with anti-rust stuff inside and out.


Finally, consider fitting as many new water hoses as you can get at, if not all of them. Particularly the bottom hose is a good idea to change, as this is much easier, and takes a beating in use. Plus (eg) drive belts, thermostats, etc as you wil have much better access than normally!

 

Greg in France
Thank you For the detailed information, good as a how to manual.
" MERRY CHRISTMAS" To you and yours.

 

Good details from Greg.

I'll just add one little suggestion: if you don't remove the hood have a helper standing by to assist in lifting the radiator out. It's heavy and awkward and must be canted rearwards over the engine as you lift....and you won't want it getting all banged up.

Cheers
DD

 

I changed out my thermostats and used a "failsafe" stat that if it fails, it fails "open" I also installed the simple preston flush "tee" at that time on the heater hose and flushed the motor, heater core and also I reccomend the uprated banjo bolt availible from V-12performance. When you have the rad out and the top line at the banjo off make sure it's clean and flows well.

 

I'm embarrassed, what is a banjo and banjo bolt?

 

On the header panel on top of your rad is a bolt that has two small coolant lines converging under it...the type of fitting the bolt goes through is a "banjo" fitting...the bolt is hollow and has feeder holes drilled in it. It is by design small and not very "flowing" and can become clogged.

No affiliation but follow the link, you'll see what I mean.

V12 Performance: Banjo Bolts

 

Thank you Doug and JTsmks. I put the v12 performance on my favorites.